Venice
After a disappointing wet, half-day
visit to Venice over 20 years ago, I wanted to return and see this fascinating
city, described as an open-air museum - hopefully in a better light. Venice is
not an island but was originally built upon wooden stakes driven into the
swampy ground – and is now sinking at a rate of 1mm each year. It has a network
of canals, the Grand Canal being the most important and the city's "main
road", as well as narrow ones only a few feet wide.
There are thousands of buildings facing onto these canals, some dating back to the 13th century and many of their facades have now been beautifully restored. I had been advised to get a 3-day pass for the Waterbus (Vaporetto) at 40 Euros, this was easily obtained at a kiosk by the main bus station, and it was definitely the best idea. I travelled down the Grand Canal, marvelling at everything I could see – especially the bright green water, the ornate buildings and the volume of traffic on the water.
Although I didn’t arrive at my hotel until 6pm, I couldn’t wait to get out exploring. As the hotel was very central, it only took 10 minutes to walk to St Mark’s Square, which wasn’t too busy, as most of the day-visitors had left. The Basilica at the far end is so impressive with its golden arched façade, the exquisite Doges Palace next to it and the imposing Bell Tower standing proudly in front of them.
The Square is a huge open space, surrounded by covered walkways with shops and restaurants – some even had musicians playing outside to entertain their guests – it was a pleasure to be part of these romantic surroundings.
I had wondered about buying a ticket to go up The Bell tower before I arrived, but as they had timed slots, I wanted to see what the weather was like – and that evening it was perfect. As most of the day-visitors had left, I only had to queue for 5 minutes, pay 8 Euros, and board the elevator that takes you the 100 metres to the top. I had the most stunning views of the entire city and surrounding lagoon, from each of the 4 sides there was something different to see, and the early evening light was perfect.
The Tower was built on Roman foundations, originally a lighthouse in 1173, then a watch tower, and in 1513 it was restored following an earthquake; but it collapsed in 1902 and was reconstructed to resemble the 1513 version. At the top, there are 5 huge bells, each used to have a specific function, ringing out for work, meetings and even executions; and there is a plaque commemorating Galileo who used the tower to observe the stars. Above the belfry is a pyramid-shaped spire and a gilded statue of the Angel Gabriel which acts as a wind vane. I was so pleased that I had been able to go up this Tower and get a real sense of Venice from up above.
Next, I crossed Accademia Bridge (which was being restored) to Zattere, a pleasant, peaceful waterfront promenade within the Dorsoduro district, with great views over the lagoon, and many people dining out. From one of the pathways I saw Squero di San Trovaso, a 17th century boatyard next to San Trovaso Church, it is one of 3 remaining gondola repair yards in the city and the oldest.
The highly skilled gondola builders originated from the Italian Alps, and they have been making these traditional boats, in a Tyrolean style for generations. The traditional structure of a gondola requires 8 types of wood and according to a 16th century law must be painted black. Today the boatyard is used more for repairs than for construction, servicing the 300 – 400 working gondolas. As darkness fell, quicker than I expected not helped by the tall buildings, I headed back to my hotel, through the maze of alleyways, bridges, and busy squares – feeling happy that I had made the most of my evening. Early next morning, I headed out, through a more peaceful St Mark’s Square – where there were only people with cameras wanting a serene shot of area, or couples in Wedding outfits wanting a romantic picture.
As well as enjoying the area with fewer people about, it was great to see the empty colonnades surrounding the square. I caught a Vaporetto, outside the Doges Palace and headed to some of the outlying islands. First stop was Murano, covering an area of less than a square mile, it is a series of 7 islands connected by bridges and lined with small cafes and shops – especially glass-ware shops. Murano is famous for its glass-making, having factories with demonstrations on how glass is made, and the different techniques used, some since Egyptian times.
Some of these buildings looked very run down and not very inviting, whereas the little shops were fascinating – I loved seeing all the handmade glass, in particular the ornate chandeliers and unusual items; and an incredible blue starburst glass sculpture in Campo San Stefano.
It felt peaceful here away from the hustle of the city, but there was less to see than I expected. There are several old churches, Santa Maria degli Angeli, Basilica dei Santa Maria e San Donato, Church of Saint Peter the Martyr and Church of Saint Stephen with a clock tower. Murano does have a fascinating history….. In the 13th century, medieval 'Health and Safety' was introduced; when Venice's Government realised that the open furnaces used to make glass were a serious fire hazard to the confined island, and an uncontrolled fire could have completely wiped Venice out. So, it was decreed that Venice's glass manufacture should be moved to the less built-up island of Murano; here the industry prospered, and its reputation spread worldwide. Glass Window panes made in Murano were considered the largest and clearest in Europe and for a long time, all mirror production was exclusive to Murano.
I only spent an hour on this island, then headed for the white lighthouse, that is the Vaporetto stop, 'Faro', to go over to Burano. This smaller island is famous for its picturesque, brightly coloured fishermen’s houses with small canals acting as thoroughfares, many little alleys and a few paved squares.
Burano was enchanting; the sun was shining; the sky was blue, and around every corner was another striking, vibrant photo opportunity. If someone wishes to paint their home here, they must send a request to the government, who allows only certain colours to be used. I passed the Church of San Martino, with its leaning bell tower, the Museum & School of Lacemaking, and came to Piazza Galuppi - with stalls and shops selling linen, lacework, and intricate glass items, and several cafes.
I stopped for a picnic lunch along the water’s edge, which was so serene; and had superb views of neighbouring islands, and with the Alps in the distance – it was an absolute delight. This charming island is a must for anyone visiting the area – it had completely captivated me. After crossing the bridge to Mazzorbo, I passed an ancient vineyard and caught the Vaporetto over to Torcello - having no idea what I was going to find there. It is a very different island in every way, I walked along a wide canal for 10 minutes feeling as though I was in the English countryside.
I passed a couple of tavernas and touristy stalls and at the end of the waterway there is a museum, some old ruins (the 5th century throne of Attila the Hun), Santa Maria Assanta cathedral (the oldest church in Venice built in 639AD containing the oldest mosaics in the area), and the adjacent 10th century church of Santa Fosca.
I didn’t spend long on Torcello, but it had been interesting to see; then I headed back to Venice passing several small islands that have sadly succumbed to the ocean.
Once back in the city, I went to Rialto Bridge - the oldest, most famous and most beautiful of the bridges that cross the Grand Canal, and an important crossing point to the nearby Rialto market. The bridge has steep ramps from both shores which meet in the middle, 3 walkways (a wider one in the centre and 2 overlooking each side) with 2 rows of shops between the walkways; and it was built high enough for ships to sail underneath.
I found the best view was slightly down river, where I could fully appreciate the design with its arched openings and beautiful balustrade – truly one of the most elaborate stone bridges I have ever seen.
I continued back to St Marks Square and decided to go into the Basilica as the queue wasn’t very long (only 10 minutes). It was free to get in and I didn’t need to buy a skip the line ticket - remember no backpacks are allowed inside. St. Mark's Basilica is Venice's most famous church; in 829 the body of St. Mark was smuggled out of Egypt and transported from Alexandria to Venice to rest here. Nowadays the building is full of sacred images and mosaics, one of the highlights being the mosaic that narrates the life of St Mark and episodes from the Bible and is depicted in the oldest known exterior mosaic in the world, above the cathedral's front doors.
The entrance lobby has a marble mosaic floor from the 11th and 12th century and gilded ceiling mosaics – they were my favourite part. I did find the rest of it rather dark and everyone was hurried through – so I was disappointed and glad it hadn’t cost me to go inside – the outside was far more impressive. To finish my day off, I went to a Baroque Opera Concert by The Orchestra “I Musici Veneziani” at the Scuola Grande De San Teodoro; I had no idea what to expect but it felt like something I really must do whilst in Venice.
The theatre is described as the most Prestigious Concert Hall in Venice, with its walls and ceiling adorned with 17th and 18th century paintings, the cast were all dressed in colourful 18th century costumes and the variety of music and singing was absolutely mesmerizing. I enjoyed it immensely and can highly recommend the experience.
When I left the theatre at 10pm, the streets were still bustling, so I didn’t feel worried walking back to my hotel – still humming the arias I had been listening to all evening. Next morning, I was up early ready for my pre-booked Secret Itineraries Tour of the Doges Palace. I had read that it was one of the best things to do in Venice – so I was hoping that it lived up to its reputation. Seeing the Palace from the outside is a fabulous sight, the white façade, the intricately designed arches – and its position overlooking the lagoon – for me, it was captivating and so exquisite.
The Palace was originally founded in the 14th century with other sections added on over the years. In the 17th century the prison was separated from the palace and constructed across the “Bridge of Sighs”; so, prisoners would have been sentenced in the palace courtrooms and then walk across the bridge to the prison or to their execution, and on their way, they would sigh (at the sight of freedom)!
The Tour I took started in the old Well cells (by the water) and went up more and more narrow staircases, seeing other cells that were lined with wood (although these were more punishing - as the creatures that lived in the wood ended up feeding off the prisoners!).
We went through various levels of Doges’ offices, learning about the 1,000-year-old political and justice system of the Venetians. As well as seeing ancient prison cells (including the cell where Casanova was imprisoned); secret passageways, the torture chamber; and the attic that now houses ancient battle gear – there were some marvellous views when we were at the very top of the building and could almost touch the underside of the roof.
After this tour, I was free to see the rest of the Palace on my own and could not believe the grandeur of the rooms. From the court-yard you go up to the Doge’s Apartments on the first-floor, where each room is more elaborate than the previous. There are frescoes, carved wooden ceilings, marble reliefs, paintings and numerous works of art, so much gold; and hidden passageways which connect different rooms.
I followed the signs to the prison, which was a different section than I had seen earlier and walked through the enclosed Bridge of Sighs, imagining the last view a prisoner would see, as he was sent to his cell or to his death. The bridge was built in 1602, made of white limestone, with two small windows on each side, and sculptured faces each with a sad or angry expression.
Finally, outside in the courtyard, home to the statues of Neptune and Mars which guard the Giants' Staircase, my time at the Palace was over. It had been a wonderful morning, I was astounded with all I had seen – I would highly recommend visiting.
When I left the Palace, the waterfront area was heaving with tourists (I had seen 2 cruise ships arrive earlier that morning), so I walked the few yards and caught the Vaporetto to Venice Lido. It passed along the waterfront promenade with hotels, restaurants, shops and some fabulous arched bridges. I also saw one side of The Arsenal, which used to be an important complex of shipyards, built about 1104 and remained operational until the end of the Republic in 1797. It declined in importance and today it is used as a naval base, a research centre, and a centre for the preservation of historic boats. After only 15 minutes I reached the Lido; a long island that separates the Venetian Lagoon from the Adriatic Sea, with 11 kilometres of sandy beaches.
I headed down the main street, that reminded me of other seaside towns (it didn’t feel like I was in Venice anymore), lined with shops and eating places; and it wasn’t long before I came to the seafront – a flat beach and calm ocean as far as I could see.
Many sections of the beach are private, but the first part you arrive at is the Blue Moon Public beach with its kiosks, sunbeds, parasols and too many people.
So, I walked further along until I found a quiet stretch of sand and had a much-needed rest, before paddling in the clear ocean all the way back to the Blue Moon section. It was so nice to be away from the hustle and bustle of the city, my tired feet appreciated the cold water, and it would have been perfect if the shallows had been sandy – rather than crushed shells which weren’t easy to walk on.
It was strange being in a part of Venice where you had to actually look out for cars and motorbikes, and where you weren’t jostling with people for a bit of space. A few hours, and an ice cream later, I found myself back on the Vaporetto - and the views coming back into the City were wonderful – the shots of Venice that are in every guidebook.
This time I alighted at the Giardini Pubblici Biennale (created by Napoleon), this garden was very disappointing, with a few statues, trees, bushes, grassed areas, although there were some toilets - and I didn’t stay long. Deciding that I needed a sit down (as the Vaporetto’s I had been on were so crowded that I had to stand all the time), I caught the next one that wasn’t too busy, found a seat outside, and enjoyed the ride all the way up the Grand Canal, soaking up the atmosphere of my surroundings.
I had intended staying on for the return trip, but was told to get off, so I decided to walk through the San Polo district. I saw the Leonardo Da Vinci Museum, which was next to the Church of San Rocco (originally built as a response to a plague which overtook the city in 1478).
I had been recommended to go into the nearby Basilica di Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari - which is reputedly one of the greatest churches in the city. The Franciscans originally built a church here in 1250, but over the years it has been completely rebuilt and enlarged as a Gothic-style church with a plain brick exterior, although it still has the campanile which was completed in 1396. It was only 3 Euros to get in, and worth every cent.
The interior is expansive and flooded with natural light from the windows, everything appeared to have a pinkish hue due to the orange and white marbled floor and the light walls. I enjoyed this more than the inside of St Marks. The church has an amazing choir screen, the only remaining rood screen in Venice – fabulous wood carvings.
Throughout the church, there are various paintings and pieces of art, in particular the Madonna di Ca'Pesaro by Titian (the most important member of the 16th-century Venetian school of painting - who died of the plague in 1576 and was entombed in the church). To save my legs I hopped on the next Vaporetto for a few stops, until I arrived at Santa Maria Della Salute, a minor basilica but one of the most iconic landmarks, which appears on so many Venice postcards.
A beautiful domed building almost at the end of the Punta della Dogana, overlooking St Mark’s basin – the most perfect spot. It was free to get inside and although there was a service going on at the far end of the church, it was well worth a visit.
From here I followed the flat walkway (Fondamenta) all the way around the triangular point, with views back up the Grand Canal, St Marks, the Doges Palace, and San Giorgio Maggiore opposite (originally known as The Island of Cipressi, as it was originally covered in vineyards and cypress trees, until a Benedictine monastery was built there in 982).
I continued along to the Zattere, where I stopped for something to eat at a delightful restaurant overlooking the Canale Della Giudecca in the sunshine. I watched as 2 cruise ships passed, hoping that Venice would now become more peaceful like it was earlier in the morning. If possible, you really do have to see as much as you can either first thing in the morning or at the end of the day – especially if you don’t like crowds. I made my way back to the hotel, via St Mark’s Square and the Doges Palace again - it does have this magnetism! I couldn’t believe all I had seen in my short stay. Venice had surprised me, it was busier than I expected, but wasn’t as expensive as I thought – getting the Vaporetto pass was definitely the best thing I could have done. It enabled me to see so much more than I would have done on foot – even though I had walked 31 miles over the weekend (and been on 11 boats!). I didn't get to go on a gondola, but you can go over the Grand Canal in one for only 2 Euros - look out for the special crossing points.
On the way back to the bus station next morning, a normal working day, I was fascinated to see hundreds of small boats taking every manner of essentials into the city. As well as food, drinks, clothing etc, there were boats full of flowers, of building materials (including a cement mixer!) and of course the incoming mail. It is hard to imagine how every single commodity is carried into and around here by small boat – another secret of this incredibly complex city. I had loved my time here, it had been absolutely perfect, and I now had the most wonderful memories of this captivating city.
There are thousands of buildings facing onto these canals, some dating back to the 13th century and many of their facades have now been beautifully restored. I had been advised to get a 3-day pass for the Waterbus (Vaporetto) at 40 Euros, this was easily obtained at a kiosk by the main bus station, and it was definitely the best idea. I travelled down the Grand Canal, marvelling at everything I could see – especially the bright green water, the ornate buildings and the volume of traffic on the water.
Although I didn’t arrive at my hotel until 6pm, I couldn’t wait to get out exploring. As the hotel was very central, it only took 10 minutes to walk to St Mark’s Square, which wasn’t too busy, as most of the day-visitors had left. The Basilica at the far end is so impressive with its golden arched façade, the exquisite Doges Palace next to it and the imposing Bell Tower standing proudly in front of them.
The Square is a huge open space, surrounded by covered walkways with shops and restaurants – some even had musicians playing outside to entertain their guests – it was a pleasure to be part of these romantic surroundings.
I had wondered about buying a ticket to go up The Bell tower before I arrived, but as they had timed slots, I wanted to see what the weather was like – and that evening it was perfect. As most of the day-visitors had left, I only had to queue for 5 minutes, pay 8 Euros, and board the elevator that takes you the 100 metres to the top. I had the most stunning views of the entire city and surrounding lagoon, from each of the 4 sides there was something different to see, and the early evening light was perfect.
The Tower was built on Roman foundations, originally a lighthouse in 1173, then a watch tower, and in 1513 it was restored following an earthquake; but it collapsed in 1902 and was reconstructed to resemble the 1513 version. At the top, there are 5 huge bells, each used to have a specific function, ringing out for work, meetings and even executions; and there is a plaque commemorating Galileo who used the tower to observe the stars. Above the belfry is a pyramid-shaped spire and a gilded statue of the Angel Gabriel which acts as a wind vane. I was so pleased that I had been able to go up this Tower and get a real sense of Venice from up above.
Next, I crossed Accademia Bridge (which was being restored) to Zattere, a pleasant, peaceful waterfront promenade within the Dorsoduro district, with great views over the lagoon, and many people dining out. From one of the pathways I saw Squero di San Trovaso, a 17th century boatyard next to San Trovaso Church, it is one of 3 remaining gondola repair yards in the city and the oldest.
The highly skilled gondola builders originated from the Italian Alps, and they have been making these traditional boats, in a Tyrolean style for generations. The traditional structure of a gondola requires 8 types of wood and according to a 16th century law must be painted black. Today the boatyard is used more for repairs than for construction, servicing the 300 – 400 working gondolas. As darkness fell, quicker than I expected not helped by the tall buildings, I headed back to my hotel, through the maze of alleyways, bridges, and busy squares – feeling happy that I had made the most of my evening. Early next morning, I headed out, through a more peaceful St Mark’s Square – where there were only people with cameras wanting a serene shot of area, or couples in Wedding outfits wanting a romantic picture.
As well as enjoying the area with fewer people about, it was great to see the empty colonnades surrounding the square. I caught a Vaporetto, outside the Doges Palace and headed to some of the outlying islands. First stop was Murano, covering an area of less than a square mile, it is a series of 7 islands connected by bridges and lined with small cafes and shops – especially glass-ware shops. Murano is famous for its glass-making, having factories with demonstrations on how glass is made, and the different techniques used, some since Egyptian times.
Some of these buildings looked very run down and not very inviting, whereas the little shops were fascinating – I loved seeing all the handmade glass, in particular the ornate chandeliers and unusual items; and an incredible blue starburst glass sculpture in Campo San Stefano.
It felt peaceful here away from the hustle of the city, but there was less to see than I expected. There are several old churches, Santa Maria degli Angeli, Basilica dei Santa Maria e San Donato, Church of Saint Peter the Martyr and Church of Saint Stephen with a clock tower. Murano does have a fascinating history….. In the 13th century, medieval 'Health and Safety' was introduced; when Venice's Government realised that the open furnaces used to make glass were a serious fire hazard to the confined island, and an uncontrolled fire could have completely wiped Venice out. So, it was decreed that Venice's glass manufacture should be moved to the less built-up island of Murano; here the industry prospered, and its reputation spread worldwide. Glass Window panes made in Murano were considered the largest and clearest in Europe and for a long time, all mirror production was exclusive to Murano.
I only spent an hour on this island, then headed for the white lighthouse, that is the Vaporetto stop, 'Faro', to go over to Burano. This smaller island is famous for its picturesque, brightly coloured fishermen’s houses with small canals acting as thoroughfares, many little alleys and a few paved squares.
Burano was enchanting; the sun was shining; the sky was blue, and around every corner was another striking, vibrant photo opportunity. If someone wishes to paint their home here, they must send a request to the government, who allows only certain colours to be used. I passed the Church of San Martino, with its leaning bell tower, the Museum & School of Lacemaking, and came to Piazza Galuppi - with stalls and shops selling linen, lacework, and intricate glass items, and several cafes.
I stopped for a picnic lunch along the water’s edge, which was so serene; and had superb views of neighbouring islands, and with the Alps in the distance – it was an absolute delight. This charming island is a must for anyone visiting the area – it had completely captivated me. After crossing the bridge to Mazzorbo, I passed an ancient vineyard and caught the Vaporetto over to Torcello - having no idea what I was going to find there. It is a very different island in every way, I walked along a wide canal for 10 minutes feeling as though I was in the English countryside.
I passed a couple of tavernas and touristy stalls and at the end of the waterway there is a museum, some old ruins (the 5th century throne of Attila the Hun), Santa Maria Assanta cathedral (the oldest church in Venice built in 639AD containing the oldest mosaics in the area), and the adjacent 10th century church of Santa Fosca.
I didn’t spend long on Torcello, but it had been interesting to see; then I headed back to Venice passing several small islands that have sadly succumbed to the ocean.
Once back in the city, I went to Rialto Bridge - the oldest, most famous and most beautiful of the bridges that cross the Grand Canal, and an important crossing point to the nearby Rialto market. The bridge has steep ramps from both shores which meet in the middle, 3 walkways (a wider one in the centre and 2 overlooking each side) with 2 rows of shops between the walkways; and it was built high enough for ships to sail underneath.
I found the best view was slightly down river, where I could fully appreciate the design with its arched openings and beautiful balustrade – truly one of the most elaborate stone bridges I have ever seen.
I continued back to St Marks Square and decided to go into the Basilica as the queue wasn’t very long (only 10 minutes). It was free to get in and I didn’t need to buy a skip the line ticket - remember no backpacks are allowed inside. St. Mark's Basilica is Venice's most famous church; in 829 the body of St. Mark was smuggled out of Egypt and transported from Alexandria to Venice to rest here. Nowadays the building is full of sacred images and mosaics, one of the highlights being the mosaic that narrates the life of St Mark and episodes from the Bible and is depicted in the oldest known exterior mosaic in the world, above the cathedral's front doors.
The entrance lobby has a marble mosaic floor from the 11th and 12th century and gilded ceiling mosaics – they were my favourite part. I did find the rest of it rather dark and everyone was hurried through – so I was disappointed and glad it hadn’t cost me to go inside – the outside was far more impressive. To finish my day off, I went to a Baroque Opera Concert by The Orchestra “I Musici Veneziani” at the Scuola Grande De San Teodoro; I had no idea what to expect but it felt like something I really must do whilst in Venice.
The theatre is described as the most Prestigious Concert Hall in Venice, with its walls and ceiling adorned with 17th and 18th century paintings, the cast were all dressed in colourful 18th century costumes and the variety of music and singing was absolutely mesmerizing. I enjoyed it immensely and can highly recommend the experience.
When I left the theatre at 10pm, the streets were still bustling, so I didn’t feel worried walking back to my hotel – still humming the arias I had been listening to all evening. Next morning, I was up early ready for my pre-booked Secret Itineraries Tour of the Doges Palace. I had read that it was one of the best things to do in Venice – so I was hoping that it lived up to its reputation. Seeing the Palace from the outside is a fabulous sight, the white façade, the intricately designed arches – and its position overlooking the lagoon – for me, it was captivating and so exquisite.
The Palace was originally founded in the 14th century with other sections added on over the years. In the 17th century the prison was separated from the palace and constructed across the “Bridge of Sighs”; so, prisoners would have been sentenced in the palace courtrooms and then walk across the bridge to the prison or to their execution, and on their way, they would sigh (at the sight of freedom)!
The Tour I took started in the old Well cells (by the water) and went up more and more narrow staircases, seeing other cells that were lined with wood (although these were more punishing - as the creatures that lived in the wood ended up feeding off the prisoners!).
We went through various levels of Doges’ offices, learning about the 1,000-year-old political and justice system of the Venetians. As well as seeing ancient prison cells (including the cell where Casanova was imprisoned); secret passageways, the torture chamber; and the attic that now houses ancient battle gear – there were some marvellous views when we were at the very top of the building and could almost touch the underside of the roof.
After this tour, I was free to see the rest of the Palace on my own and could not believe the grandeur of the rooms. From the court-yard you go up to the Doge’s Apartments on the first-floor, where each room is more elaborate than the previous. There are frescoes, carved wooden ceilings, marble reliefs, paintings and numerous works of art, so much gold; and hidden passageways which connect different rooms.
I followed the signs to the prison, which was a different section than I had seen earlier and walked through the enclosed Bridge of Sighs, imagining the last view a prisoner would see, as he was sent to his cell or to his death. The bridge was built in 1602, made of white limestone, with two small windows on each side, and sculptured faces each with a sad or angry expression.
Finally, outside in the courtyard, home to the statues of Neptune and Mars which guard the Giants' Staircase, my time at the Palace was over. It had been a wonderful morning, I was astounded with all I had seen – I would highly recommend visiting.
When I left the Palace, the waterfront area was heaving with tourists (I had seen 2 cruise ships arrive earlier that morning), so I walked the few yards and caught the Vaporetto to Venice Lido. It passed along the waterfront promenade with hotels, restaurants, shops and some fabulous arched bridges. I also saw one side of The Arsenal, which used to be an important complex of shipyards, built about 1104 and remained operational until the end of the Republic in 1797. It declined in importance and today it is used as a naval base, a research centre, and a centre for the preservation of historic boats. After only 15 minutes I reached the Lido; a long island that separates the Venetian Lagoon from the Adriatic Sea, with 11 kilometres of sandy beaches.
I headed down the main street, that reminded me of other seaside towns (it didn’t feel like I was in Venice anymore), lined with shops and eating places; and it wasn’t long before I came to the seafront – a flat beach and calm ocean as far as I could see.
Many sections of the beach are private, but the first part you arrive at is the Blue Moon Public beach with its kiosks, sunbeds, parasols and too many people.
So, I walked further along until I found a quiet stretch of sand and had a much-needed rest, before paddling in the clear ocean all the way back to the Blue Moon section. It was so nice to be away from the hustle and bustle of the city, my tired feet appreciated the cold water, and it would have been perfect if the shallows had been sandy – rather than crushed shells which weren’t easy to walk on.
It was strange being in a part of Venice where you had to actually look out for cars and motorbikes, and where you weren’t jostling with people for a bit of space. A few hours, and an ice cream later, I found myself back on the Vaporetto - and the views coming back into the City were wonderful – the shots of Venice that are in every guidebook.
This time I alighted at the Giardini Pubblici Biennale (created by Napoleon), this garden was very disappointing, with a few statues, trees, bushes, grassed areas, although there were some toilets - and I didn’t stay long. Deciding that I needed a sit down (as the Vaporetto’s I had been on were so crowded that I had to stand all the time), I caught the next one that wasn’t too busy, found a seat outside, and enjoyed the ride all the way up the Grand Canal, soaking up the atmosphere of my surroundings.
I had intended staying on for the return trip, but was told to get off, so I decided to walk through the San Polo district. I saw the Leonardo Da Vinci Museum, which was next to the Church of San Rocco (originally built as a response to a plague which overtook the city in 1478).
I had been recommended to go into the nearby Basilica di Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari - which is reputedly one of the greatest churches in the city. The Franciscans originally built a church here in 1250, but over the years it has been completely rebuilt and enlarged as a Gothic-style church with a plain brick exterior, although it still has the campanile which was completed in 1396. It was only 3 Euros to get in, and worth every cent.
The interior is expansive and flooded with natural light from the windows, everything appeared to have a pinkish hue due to the orange and white marbled floor and the light walls. I enjoyed this more than the inside of St Marks. The church has an amazing choir screen, the only remaining rood screen in Venice – fabulous wood carvings.
Throughout the church, there are various paintings and pieces of art, in particular the Madonna di Ca'Pesaro by Titian (the most important member of the 16th-century Venetian school of painting - who died of the plague in 1576 and was entombed in the church). To save my legs I hopped on the next Vaporetto for a few stops, until I arrived at Santa Maria Della Salute, a minor basilica but one of the most iconic landmarks, which appears on so many Venice postcards.
A beautiful domed building almost at the end of the Punta della Dogana, overlooking St Mark’s basin – the most perfect spot. It was free to get inside and although there was a service going on at the far end of the church, it was well worth a visit.
From here I followed the flat walkway (Fondamenta) all the way around the triangular point, with views back up the Grand Canal, St Marks, the Doges Palace, and San Giorgio Maggiore opposite (originally known as The Island of Cipressi, as it was originally covered in vineyards and cypress trees, until a Benedictine monastery was built there in 982).
I continued along to the Zattere, where I stopped for something to eat at a delightful restaurant overlooking the Canale Della Giudecca in the sunshine. I watched as 2 cruise ships passed, hoping that Venice would now become more peaceful like it was earlier in the morning. If possible, you really do have to see as much as you can either first thing in the morning or at the end of the day – especially if you don’t like crowds. I made my way back to the hotel, via St Mark’s Square and the Doges Palace again - it does have this magnetism! I couldn’t believe all I had seen in my short stay. Venice had surprised me, it was busier than I expected, but wasn’t as expensive as I thought – getting the Vaporetto pass was definitely the best thing I could have done. It enabled me to see so much more than I would have done on foot – even though I had walked 31 miles over the weekend (and been on 11 boats!). I didn't get to go on a gondola, but you can go over the Grand Canal in one for only 2 Euros - look out for the special crossing points.
On the way back to the bus station next morning, a normal working day, I was fascinated to see hundreds of small boats taking every manner of essentials into the city. As well as food, drinks, clothing etc, there were boats full of flowers, of building materials (including a cement mixer!) and of course the incoming mail. It is hard to imagine how every single commodity is carried into and around here by small boat – another secret of this incredibly complex city. I had loved my time here, it had been absolutely perfect, and I now had the most wonderful memories of this captivating city.
Lynne
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