Monday 3 February 2020

York

York


The walled city of York has historical and cultural architecture at every turn; founded by the Romans in 71 AD and called Eboracum; then captured by the Vikings in 866 AD and renamed Jorvik. As the capital of the new Viking Kingdom, which covered much of the north and east of England, it became one of the most important cities in England - and still is. At the heart of the city stands the 13th century Gothic York Minster surrounded by the almost-complete city walls, which enclose a myriad of narrow, cobbled streets with traditional shops, restaurants, museums and interesting places to visit and learn more about this fascinating city.


One of the highlights of any trip to York is to visit its magnificent Cathedral - York Minster, which is one of the finest Medieval Gothic Cathedrals in the world. A church has stood on this spot from 627, and at the end of the 11th century William the Conqueror ordered the building of a great Norman Cathedral here, although work on the Cathedral as it is now, didn't commence until 1220. 


Apart from its history dating  back thousands of years, having fabulous stained glass windows and intricate stone carvings throughout; your entrance ticket offers you a free guided tour to learn more about this iconic building. For an extra price, you can climb the 275 steps of the central tower for a panoramic view of the city; or you can visit the "Undercroft" - the foundations beneath the building to experience more of York's  fascinating history with artefacts from Roman and Viking times.


The Great East Window contains the largest expanse of medieval stained glass in England and tells the story of The Creation to The Apocalypse.


One of my favourite sections was the circular Gothic Chapter House, with its domed roof, stone carvings, stained glass windows and  ancient carved doors; where  day to day business of the Minster was carried out. The entrance to it is along a fairly low passage, which gives you no indication of what is to come and I was lucky enough to have this marvellous room all to myself!



As well as more incredible stonework, there are colourful, authentic tombs and memorials throughout the building dedicated to all sorts of  people - dating back more than 500 years.



Your admission ticket is valid for 12 months, so you can always revisit. More information at  https://yorkminster.org/


Also in the Minster area you will find The Barley Hall (although it is quite hidden - in The Coffee Yard off Stonegate), a medieval townhouse; which has previously been home to the Priors of Nostell and even a Lord Mayor of York. The building was rediscovered in the 1980's when a derelict office block was about to be destroyed - and this magnificent building was found to be behind it. The oldest parts of the hall date as far back as about 1360, when it was built as the townhouse for the Nostell Priory.


 It has now been restored to its original medieval splendour, where you can see its timber frames, high ceilings and decor and furnishings, that have been replicated from the time of Richard 3rd. It is open 7 days a week from 10am  and more information can be found at   https://barleyhall.co.uk


York's City Walls are approximately 2 miles long with 5 main gatehouses (known as Bars), dozens of towers and a Victorian Gateway. These walls are the most intact left in England and it is worth walking around at least a part of them - to capture the atmosphere, as well as great views of the city.


There are a few sections where parts of the wall is missing, but at the base of the staircases are maps telling you where the next section can be found. If you walk all the way around it will take about 2 hours, but there is so much to see on the way, that with regular stops it can take much longer.


Around the walls, look out for the Richard 3rd and Henry 7th Experience, where you can learn more about the lives of these 2 kings; with Henry defeating Richard to become the first Tudor king.


One of my main reasons for visiting York was to go to the Jorvik Viking Centre, which is built on the site of a Viking village discovered in the 1970's, in the centre of the city. You have to walk over the huge glass floor and see remains below of Viking houses, workshops and backyards - as it was 1000 years before; and see displays on the walls of one of the most fabulous recent excavations and what  was discovered. The staff, dressed in traditional clothing are very informative and happy to elaborate on any of the findings here.


Although renowned as being fierce warriors, most Vikings settled into peaceful lives over in England. They were skilled craftsmen, especially with silver, gold, lead and glass; many were also farmers and fishermen. They were also acclaimed as being great sailors and traders, with links far and wide - hence acquiring goods from many different places all over the world.


You can have a journey or a ride in a "Time Capsule" that takes you through a 10th century Viking village, seeing how and where they lived, worked and died. There is an audio commentary throughout the ride with an option for it to be in various languages. This is a fabulous experience that is so well put together, I thoroughly enjoyed it and could easily have gone around a second time. 


The figures are so life like - they are fabulous. Some of their faces have been reconstructed to match skulls that have been unearthed - so they really are authentic vikings.




Even the rat eating some left-overs looked real.


After your journey through the village, you can see over a thousand artefacts; unusual, ornate and rare items in the newly designed gallery - as well as skeletons that have been unearthed here in York .


You exit up the stairs and through the gift shop. The Jorvik Centre is well worth a visit; it is open from 10am every day and your ticket is valid for 12 months. https://www.jorvikvikingcentre.co.uk


My next port of call was the Merchant Adventurers' Hall, again right in the heart of the city -  described as another of York's medieval marvels. Dating back to the mid 14th century, this fabulous Tudor timber framed building  is one of the finest remaining medieval guild halls in the world.



It isn't very expensive to go in, and you are given a free audio tour to learn more about York's early entrepreneurs - how they risked their own money in overseas markets in to bring wealth to the city.



As well as a great collection of art, silver and portraits (and this statue of Napoleon) , there are lots of stories to learn about York's townsfolk, as well as its more affluent citizens.


The main Hall is a wonderful room, and you can just imagine the goings-on here over the last 600 years; it is still used for noisy gatherings today - with weddings and hospitality events.


I can highly recommend a visit here, it is open every day from 10am (although it closes early on Saturdays) and has a delightful cafe and a small shop. http://www.merchantshallyork.org/


York's Chocolate Story involves a guided tour over 3 floors, to discover how York became famous for numerous best-selling names in confectionery. You can see how cocoa is transformed from the humble bean into tasty chocolate and even try some samples. https://www.yorkschocolatestory.com/


The Shambles is one of York's most famous and picturesque streets - which has featured in many films and TV shows.  Situated between the Minster area and the town, this cobbled street is full of unusual shops - many of which you won't find anywhere else; the only problem is that it gets too crowded. It is not a very long street, but has a market running parallel to it - which is worth a visit.







Look out for Guy Fawkes Inn on High Petergate - the birthplace of the notorious Guy Fawkes  who plotted to blow up the Houses of Parliament in 1605.


Clifford Tower standing on a raised mound of earth, is the remnants of a fortified complex dating back over 1000 years. This ancient monument was once a timber keep, built in the time of William the Conqueror, and the Tower you see now has stood here since 1245. It was  once part of York Castle but is now owned by English Heritage - climb the steps for a panoramic view of the city and the surrounding countryside.




For me, York Castle Museum (which has never been a castle) was one of the highlights of my visit to York - totally unexpected and nothing like any other museum I have been to.  It is in 2 separate parts - on either side of the entrance (where you will also find the cafe and the shop).


There are displays showing rooms from various centuries and most decades of the past 100 years; with artefacts that everyone can enjoy and sometimes relate to.


There are often temporary exhibitions - this one was about clothing and body shapes!


This was a room showing what a coffin-makers workshop might have looked like - intriguing!


The reconstructed Victorian Kirkgate street with its cobbled road, authentic shops and even a life-like horse and carriage is fabulous - the lighting even changes to make it appear either day or night-time.


There are characters dressed in traditional clothing, adding atmosphere to the area and you can even buy real confectionery from this shop; you really are taken back to the Victorian era here.



In the next part of the museum you will find more "normal" items and  displays. One exhibition consists of toys and no matter what their age - everyone can relate to something from their childhood.


But then you come to a section called 1914: When the World Changed Forever - about Life in The Trenches which is absolutely brilliant. Here you can really get to grips with what it was like to have been in a World War One trench - not just on the Allied side, but on the German side too. There are many interactive displays to help - as well as smells and noises from the Front - so you could experience how grim and horrific life would have been for those on the front line.


This was one of the Gas masks that would have been used in WW1 - it seems so inadequate. There was also the chance to see some of the First Aid equipment that was used to save lives - that was frightening!

On to another decade - a complete contrast; the next section was vibrant and full of life - The Sixties!


In this colourful interactive gallery you can see inventions that changed the world, from a space capsule, revolutionary technology to unconventional music and fashions.



The final section is in the original Georgian prison area which was once home to Dick Turpin the infamous highwayman; many of the tales we know about him are purely fictional but he was actually tried and executed here in York.



With help from holograms (that come on whenever someone walks into the cell), you can learn about various characters, rogues, vagabonds and murderers that served out their sentences here and those who died here.



Many of its inmates were dealt harsh punishments, kept in dreadful conditions and even sentenced to death (you can see the stocks and gallows in the exercise yard) and thousands were transported overseas - never to return home again.



You can easily spend 2-3 hours at the York Castle Museum, it is well worth a visit. For more information  https://www.yorkcastlemuseum.org.uk/


There are many more museum-type places as you explore York. In 1930 when renovations were being carried out, the remains of a Roman bath house was discovered beneath this tavern. For a fee, visitors can see where Roman soldiers and citizens of the city came to bathe and relax.


For those of you who are interested in the war - there is the York Army Museum 


Fairfax House, a Georgian town house and museum is an interesting place to visit  http://www.fairfaxhouse.co.uk/

There are so many interesting buildings as you wander around - York itself is like a huge outdoor museum. There are also trips along the river for an hour - if you need to give your legs a rest! 



And just for something that is as far away from medieval as you can possibly get...............!



It is definitely worth looking at buying a York Pass if you are interested in visiting  lots of York's attractions, they are valid for varying amounts of days to suit your needs. https://yorkpass.com/city-pass-attractions/


Thank you for taking time to follow my adventures,

Lynne



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