Rouen
Rouen, is the well-preserved capital of Normandy in France, and a port city on the river Seine. It is full of history, originally called Rotomagus, a Gallo-Roman city founded by the Romans; then in 911 it became the capital of the Duchy of Normandy under the leadership of the Viking Rollo. It has so many Gothic churches, such as the Notre Dame Cathedral, Saint-Maclou and Saint-Ouen - described by Victor Hugo as the City of Hundred Spires; it has numerous cobblestoned streets and alleyways, and more medieval half-timbered houses than I have ever seen. Around every corner, you will spot more of these colourful buildings - there are supposed to be over 2000 preserved in the city.
One of Rouen's highlights is the The Gros-Horloge - a 14th century astronomical clock - installed in a Renaissance arch. The mechanism is one of the oldest in France, the movement having been made in 1389. It is a beautiful piece of work, in an equally picturesque street. You can have a guided tour to see the inside workings, or climb to the top for breathtaking views of the city.
Rouen's Notre Dame Cathedral is one of the most famous Gothic cathedrals in the world - thanks to a series of paintings by the Impressionist Claude Monet. It was originally a 4th century basilica, destroyed by the Vikings in 841, an 11th century Romanesque complex, and severely damaged in World War Two - it is described as a building which is in perpetual evolution - being rebuilt so many times.
This amazing staircase which was built in 1480, is known as the Booksellers Staircase. The stairs used to lead to the Cathedral library which was situated just above the Flamboyant Gothic arched door.
For anyone interested in Viking history, Rouen is the place to visit. Coming from Norway, via England, one of the most famous Vikings was Rollo, who landed in Normandy in 841, plundering the land. In exchange for protecting Paris from more raiders, he was given these lands by King Charles 3rd. He then converted to Christianity and become the first Duke of Normandy - a lineage that included William the Conqueror and Richard the Lionheart.
The first tomb I came to was that of William Longsword - son a Rollo.
Above is the tomb of Richard the Lionheart - the legendary king and crusader. Whilst his body lies in several other places in France, his heart lies here - in remembrance of his connection and love of Normandy. He was a direct descendant of Rollo - whose tomb is the one below.
This is such an impressive Cathedral - I wish I had done the official guided tour, although I might not have been able to remember everything I was told about it! It is an exceptional place, with different styles evolved over the centuries; the 12th century Saint-Romain tower, the 14th century Librarians' portal, the 15th century western facade and Butter tower, and 19th century cast iron spire.
The facade of the Cathedral is decorated with 70 figures - all sculpted between 1362 and 1421.
I was lucky that whilst I was in Rouen, there was a spectacular light show every evening, on the facade of the Cathedral - although it didn't start until 11pm. It was free for anyone to watch and many people gathered to see this colourful spectacle, sitting on the steps of the square in front of the Cathedral.
The light show was in two halves, the first part was the story of the Viking invasion in the 9th century, when their boats travelled up the Seine, burnt the town of Rouen and eventually signed a peace treaty with King Charles 3rd. It is a breath-taking interpretation of historical and mythical encounters of that period in time - at one point it looked as if a Viking longboat was coming out of the Cathedral wall. The second half of the show was modern art with colourful but mesmerising abstract designs.
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One of the other historical events that Rouen is famous for is the trial and execution of Joan of Arc. There is a fabulous interpretive centre in the Bishops Palace (at the back of the Cathedral). You are given an audio guide and travel through many rooms which describe Joan's life, the injustices that befell her and what eventually became of her.
It is a very sad tale, and one which has been reconstructed many times in plays and films.
It is situated in the same area as the Abbey of Saint Ouen and they share some lovely tranquil gardens.
It is in these gardens you can find the statue of the famous Viking Rollo, and read more about the vikings that came here over a thousand years ago.
Saint-Ouen Abbey, is a stunning Gothic Catholic church and was a former, powerful Benedictine monastery in 14th and 16th centuries. It was named for Audoin, the 7th-century bishop of Rouen.
It was rather empty when I visited, but this didn't disappoint me - as its history and medieval architecture were enchanting. There is constant restoration work being carried out on the outside of the building as well as the inside - especially the stone figures. It is a very light, airy building.
Walking down one of the main roads of Rouen, you will pass the fabulous Palace of Justice, Rouen's Courthouse, which was formerly known as the Échiquier de Normandie. It is an exquisite building that has been used for over 500 years - see information boards below for its history.
I was fascinated by how many holes were in the building (they haven't been repaired); these were from bombs and guns in World War Two, when the town was besieged and the people of Rouen took shelter in this building. They have been left in situ to remind everyone of events that happened here. A modern artist is currently filling some of the holes with coloured lego - you can still see the effect of the bombing.
Another beautiful building is the Eglise Saint-Maclou, a Roman Catholic church named after Saint Malo - it is considered to be one of the best examples of the Flamboyant style of Gothic architecture in France. Work started on this building after 1435, replacing a Romanesque church; and its internal decoration is described as macabre, beckoning back to the church's grim past rooted in the Black Death pandemic. It can be found in the heart of medieval Rouen, surrounded by charming, colourful half-timbered houses.
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It was sad to see the sorry state it was in after being bombed in World War Two.
In this area of Rouen, you can also find the Natural History Museum, Antiquities Museum and Ceramics Museum - but they were all closed for refurbishment when I was there. But the Museum of Fine Arts (next to the Tourist Information Office) was open and free to go in. It was established by Napoleon Bonepart in 1801, and is well worth a visit.
Another museum that is absolutely brilliant, is the Museum Le Secq des Tournelles - devoted to the Art of Ancient Wrought Ironwork, which is housed in the 15th century church of Saint-Laurent. The idea for this collection came from Jean-Louis-Henri Le Secq Destournelles (1818-1882), a painter who studied in Paris and Rome, and became one of the first photographers in France. He started this collection in 1865 and his son Henry (1854–1925) continued to add to it before donating it to the City of Rouen.
This collection contains a wealth of artistic and picturesque objects made of, or containing iron; ranging from the Gallo-Roman era to the 20th century, and includes pieces from all over Europe, Russia, Arab countries and India. There are highly sophisticated pieces (master's locks and silversmith work) as well as attractive folk art objects (shop signs and cooking pots). The main themes represented are shop and property signs, cutlery, trade tools, objects of embellishment and enjoyment, and equipment for the decoration of churches, homes and doors, particularly locks, coffers and caskets - and a wonderful staircase.
The city itself is like an open-air museum. Every street that you walk along will astound you with another piece of medieval architecture. I have never seen so many beautiful timber houses, or squares surrounded by these multicoloured, preserved buildings. You walk along looking in shop windows without realising what the upper levels are like. It is one of the most beautiful cities I have ever been to.
Some of the roads are painted - so make sure you look down as well as up!
There is a new Viking Experience / Immersive centre on the far bank of the river - I didn't have time to go there. But I was so impressed with the city, I will most definitely be returning - as there is so much more to see and learn about............especially if you are interested in history.
Thank you for taking time to follow my adventures,
Lynne
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