Lynne's Travels : March 2024

Yosemite National Park

Having just a short time in San Francisco, and really wanting to see Yosemite, I opted for the (very) long day trip that can be done from there. Leaving at 6am, we were soon travelling through the countryside, with reminders of its “Gold Rush” past (ram shackled houses in old gold mining hamlets) - heading towards California’s Sierra Nevada Mountain Range.

We passed by miles of dead trees – evidence of bushfires (both controlled and not!), and a large canyon described as The Rim of the World. Yosemite is about 170 miles from San Francisco taking about 4 hours’ drive to get there. Yosemite National Park is described as one of the world’s greatest parks - famed for its awe-inspiring landscapes, towering peaks, breath-taking waterfalls and giant, ancient sequoia trees. Once entering the park, the roads meandered for ages, but the views kept me from feeling squeezy – I didn’t want to miss a single minute. Glaciers sculptured out this landscape, leaving polished granite domes, craggy peaks and wide, flattened meadows.

The first stop we made was at the Tunnel View viewpoint, with the most scenic eastward views of the Yosemite Valley - including the southwest face of El Capitan, Half Dome and Bridalveil Falls. What a first stop! The sun was shining, the sky was perfect and it was as magnificent as I had wanted it to be. A one-way system operates along many on the Park’s roads, so we travelled along the Southside drive, passing several interesting viewpoints. Cathedral Rocks are a prominent collection of pinnacles, cliffs and buttresses. There are three major summits - Higher, Middle and Lower Cathedral Rocks, providing an awesome sight for all visitors. Sentinel Bridge is a renowned location for a breath-taking view of Half Dome and its mirrored reflection in the Merced River. There is also Sentinel Beach and Sentinel Creek. Unfortunately, time didn’t allow us to stop at the Swinging Bridge (that does not actually swing any more); as years of high flood waters had taken its toll. The coach stopped close to Yosemite Valley Lodge and we were given some spare time to explore – not enough, but we managed to fit in as much as possible.

Yosemite Falls Trail was the first place to explore – they are the 4^th tallest waterfalls in the world, (North America’s Tallest Falls) - which are supposed to roar in the spring but fall silent in late summer. We were lucky that although it was a hot late summer day, the falls were still flowing – a wonderful view through the forest.

The light-coloured boulders and stones lining the stream coming off the falls – were so picturesque against the dense green forest.

Carrying along the walking trail, we came to Yosemite Village and its Visitor Centre, where they hold informative lectures and have guided walk information. There is a Ranger-staffed information desk, bookstore, Spirit of Yosemite film, and exhibit hall detailing the park's geology, plant and animal life, and history.

Yosemite Museum has The Indian Cultural Exhibit which interprets the history of Yosemite's native Miwok and Paiute people from 1850 to the present day. The Gallery has art exhibits throughout the year; and there is also Happy Isles – an Art and Nature centre with natural history exhibits, interactive displays, and art workshops (but that is further down the trail). There is a large café, toilets and medical centre in the village, and you can catch one of the free Shuttles to and from here. The Valleywide Shuttle runs approximately every 15 minutes and takes 90 minutes to do a round trip; whereas the East Valley Shuttle stops at a limited number of stops just to one end of Valley taking only 50 minutes. These are a very good way of saving your legs, especially if you are short on time.

Nestled in the heart of the valley is Curry Village or Camp Curry – with lodging facilities of all types, cabins, tents, and cozy motel rooms. Above this you will see Staircase Falls (which is usually dry from July); and Glacier Point if you can hike to it - with a commanding viewpoint of Yosemite Valley, Half Dome, and the High Sierra which is 30 miles away.

One of the most prominent features which can be seen from most places, is Half Dome - a well-known rock formation, named for its distinct shape. One side is a sheer granite rock face while the other three sides are smooth and round, making it appear like a dome cut in half. It is nearly 8,800 feet above sea level and composed of quartz monzonite. At its core are the remains of a magma chamber that cooled slowly and crystallized beneath the Earth's surface. A permit is required if you want to try to climb it. At this eastern end of the valley, there are many other hiking trails to more viewpoints, Waterfalls, and Mirror Lake – which I would like to have seen if I had, had more time. I tried to find the Indian Village of Ahwahnee - a re-constructed 1870s Indian village with bark houses, a ceremonial roundhouse, sweathouse, and acorn granaries – but could only see The Ahwahnee Hotel (famous for its dining, décor and architecture that complements the natural setting of the park). On the return drive along the Northside Road, we saw Eagle Peak, the highest of the Three Brothers (Lower and Middle being the others), an independent rocky peak located just east of El Capitan.

We stopped at the grasslands in front the vertical rock formation known as El Capitan ("the Captain" or "the Chief"); a granite monolith about 3,000 feet from base to summit along its tallest face and a world-famous location for big wall climbing.

We were lucky to spot climbers scrambling up its granite walls on the day we were there.

Many tourists were at the picnic area here (climber spotting), and told to keep food, trash, and other scented items within arm's reach; and if a bear approaches, to yell as loudly as possible to scare it away!

There is a great view of Bridalveil Falls from here too; at 617 feet tall, it is one of the most prominent falls in Yosemite Valley and flows all year round - although you have to walk 15 mins to get close pictures.