Iguazzu Falls

Iguazzu Falls

After a nightmare journey from Santiago to Buenos Aires, where you have to collect your suitcase, pass through immigration and check in all over again (allow at least a minimum of 3 hours), I finally landed at Iguazzu airport. What a relief that was after how close I had been to missing my connection earlier in the day! I was upset there was no money exchanges at the airport, as I hadn't been able to get any Argentinean pesos before I arrived - it is a closed currency. But it was easy enough to get a taxi to my hotel, and they accepted payment in US dollars or Euros. The highway from the airport was very straight, with dense jungle on both sides; bright brick-red soil and signs saying beware of a multitude of strange looking animals. Apparently there are pumas and jaguars lurking about as well as the 'normal' monkeys, deer and a type of raccoon. Just as we reached the city of Iguazzu, we had to stop at a checkpoint, where all newcomers have to pay $2 city tax.  When I arrived at my hotel, there was a power cut, so I was shown to my room and told that I could sort the check-in out later. I had just finished unpacking when there was a knock at my door; the manager said I wasn't booked into his hotel!

So I spent the next hour on the phone trying to sort out why my paperwork said one thing and their system said another. Upshot was, I had to repack and get a taxi to another hotel, which did end up being a lot nicer than the original one. So by the end of the day I was even more exhausted than I expected. Smothered in insect repellent, I took myself off for dinner, through trees, past a swamp that was the centre feature of the hotel complex - catching sight of a 3-foot long lizard and a black butterfly that was as big as a bird. Then it was early to bed eager for my exciting day tomorrow.

I had a leisurely morning visiting the Eco Park that was next to the hotel; it had the most amazing butterfly house. I have never seen so many butterflies so close - as well as brightly coloured ones, there were huge ones that looked like bark off a tree - they blended in so well.

There were snakes, crocodiles and tortoises in pens, but lots of lizards and birds about in the wild. After a relaxing swim I was collected for my trip to the Brazilian side of the world famous Iguazzu Falls - one of the Seven Wonders of the World. We had to pass through rigorous checks to pass over into Brazil, which took over an hour, but the locals say that at least they don't have trouble like in Europe.

I saw stalls by the roadside selling hammocks - now that was a first. Once I had my ticket to get into the National Park, Bruno my guide collected me again and we headed off through the jungle to the falls. No one is allowed to walk or cycle in the park anymore - the risk from jaguars and pumas is too great; so everyone has to be in a bus or car. All the grass verges were so immaculately kept, you could be forgiven for thinking you were in an English park – not at the edge of the jungle, well you were actually in the jungle! 

At the first vantage point, it did tell you what to do if you came across a jaguar - scary stuff! Then I spotted the Falls. I could not believe they were so magnificent, so much more magnificent than I had ever expected. In the midst of dense sub tropical jungle, 275 separate cascades crash down over horseshoe precipice nearly 5 kilometres wide and 90 metres high.

At every viewpoint there was a different breathtaking view, behind there were more cascades as well as in front – as far as I could see in every direction. The pathway took me up and down, getting closer to the edge of the falls - the thundering noise getting louder and louder. Large lizards and coatamundi (a relative of the raccoon) ran across the paths; and I was always on the lookout for a big cat.

As I got nearer to the falls, a walkway went out parallel to them and I knew I was going to get wet, but I just had to go out and see what it felt like having that spray fall onto me - it was a real pleasure especially in the heat of the afternoon. At one time I was right next to the edge of the wall of water and couldn't hear myself think, and then I went up a lift and I was looking down on them from above.

Always they were a truly splendid sight. Although most of the falls are actually on the Argentinean side, many people say they are best viewed from the Brazilian side. They were so much more impressive than I had expected, especially as it was the rainy season and there was a greater volume of water crashing down over the top into the valley below. 

After I had taken in the atmosphere and taken enough photographs of the most incredible natural boundary between 2 countries, I was taken to the local bird park. What a fantastic place that was; I would highly recommend spending a whole day there not just a few hours.

As well as more tropical bird species than I have ever seen anywhere in the world, there were snakes, crocodiles, butterflies and iguanas. The aviaries were so big that you didn't realise you were in one, full of every sort of parrot imaginable. The toucans stole the show for me though, one just came walking right up to me - they were so tame and so adorable. It is described as the most spectacular bird park in South America and I could see why, I have never seen so many exotic species in their natural habitat. After a quick visit to the gift shop, I was taken home, back through the nightmare immigration queues. I had had an unforgettable day and had enjoyed every second of this magical experience.

Next day I was collected early as it was time to see the perspective of the Iguazzu Falls from the Argentinean side. On the way to the National Park, a jaguar ran out in front of the car, too quick for me to get a shot - but what a start to the day.

It wasn't such a surprise then to see warning signs everywhere saying beware of jaguars and pumas. I arrived at the park really early and the crowds weren't bad at all, I caught a train to the furthest point - Devils Throat and went along the walkway to the platform at the end.

As I got nearer to the end, the noise was so loud, but what an experience it was - to be standing over the top of such a magnitude of thundering water, gushing down beneath your feet. The spray was so forceful; it was literally like being in a power shower.

It is the single most impressive cascade, and to me it looked quite terrifying. The water swirling down was like the most violent plughole imaginable. I tried to take a few photos but I was getting so wet that my camera was just a screen of water droplets, luckily my mobile phone managed to capture a few better ones for me to be able to remember this brilliant, even if it was a soaking experience.

I could see remnants of where a previous walkway had been washed away by torrential floodwaters, and there was a lone turtle perched on a boulder. I had dried off considerably by the time I returned to the train station; the sun was getting hot now. The next stop was a hike to the lower falls, through the jungle.

My guide was really nervous at any movement or sound that was made, he was always on the lookout for 'a wildcat' he said, and he was quite genuine about it. Also, only a few weeks earlier, he was attacked by a snake here in the park - so his umbrella wasn't for the sun or spray, it was for protection!

I began to think that there was more the risk of being attacked by an animal here – than being mugged!

He did point out several different lizards, many of the raccoon-type creature (that was very naughty stealing food), and a crocodile lying in the muddy water beneath a bridge.

There were many vantage points along the way, especially views down into the gorges below, as well as the falls in the distance. I could see dozens of vultures hovering above the spray of the highest falls, many landing on the rocky island in the centre of the gorge. I continued on, on the next track to the upper falls; stopping everywhere to take another shot.

They all looked very different from each other and I couldn't believe how many different individual names they all had - Two Sisters, Bosetti, Mbigua, Adam and Eve, to name just a few. When I got to the top of the Upper Trail it was time to get wet again, but I was so hot by now, that I welcomed it.

More wildlife spotting on the way back to the car park, the only thing I hadn't managed to see was a monkey in the wild, so I wasn’t too disappointed.

It had been a thoroughly enjoyable time in Iguazzu, I was so glad that I had gone out of my way to see this incredible place and I would recommend it to everyone who gets the chance.  It certainly is one of the Seven Wonders of the World.

  

I hope you enjoyed my travels in South America - it was an incredible 3 part adventure.

Thank you,

Lynne

Please check out my other blogs ..............

http://lynnemorleys.blogspot.com

http://lynnemorley.blogspot.com

http://morleysjourneytoozandback.blogspot.com

Mauritius

Mauritius

I arrived on the multi cultural island of Mauritius to bright blue skies and a temperature of 25 degrees and had an hour’s taxi ride to my hotel on the north east coast. Mauritius was first colonized by the Dutch in the 17th century, then by the French until the early 1800’s when the British claimed it – until it’s independence in 1968. It’s a lush, sub tropical island, with dense sub tropical forests, volcanic craters and black basalt rocks – and of course surrounded by coral reefs of the Indian Ocean.

The Ambre hotel was a self-contained resort and as it was “All Inclusive” I didn’t have to leave the place, so for three days I relaxed and recovered from the long journey. I walked both directions up and down Belle Mare beach, a long stretch of pure white sand both ways. This was advertised as one of the best stretches of beach on the island, and I could see why - it was idyllic. 

By the Friday, I was ready to go off exploring – the hire car was booked and although it arrived a bit late – I wanted to see what else Mauritius had to offer! I headed inland for fuel and then up the east coast towards the north part of the island. There were many beautiful bays and beaches all the way up the coast, with car parks and palm tree picnic areas every few miles.

These secluded spots were lovely and shaded and enabled you to park only a few feet from the beautiful ocean. I stopped many times to admire the views before reaching Cap Malheureux, with it’s quaint chapel - red roof and white walls, overlooking yet another fabulous bay. Although the locals frequently asked if you wanted to buy something or go on a boat trip, they weren’t threatening at all - they were all very friendly.

I stopped at Grand Bay, and walked around the coast for a while, admiring the yachts and other boats – but it was a bit too commercial for my liking – more like a holiday resort. There were too many activities happening and too many shops! As I passed through many of the towns you couldn’t help but admire and marvel at the temples – they were so different from any that I had seen anywhere else.

They weren’t gold, they were completely multi coloured, pink, blue, yellow, red, and green – every colour imaginable. The highlight of my day had to be visiting Pamplemousse (meaning Grapefruit in Mauritian) Gardens in the centre of the island, 60 acres of tropical paradise that was originally planted in 1735.

It included 500 different species of trees and plants – including my favourite – The Giant Victoria Regia Water Lillies. They were incredible and completely lived up to my expectations – there was a large rectangular pond full of them, some of the Lillies must have been four feet across, with upturned edges, they looked like you could sit on them and sail away.

There was the occasional heron balancing on them, with pink coloured flowers peering out between the pads. There were some very old palms in the garden, (that flower when they reach 60 years of age and then they die!) several other ponds, a deer pen and a tortoise enclosure. It was quite a sight watching the Giant Tortoises; there were 18 of them, some enjoying the sunshine, some wallowing in the mud, some drinking the pond water and a few feeling very frisky!

Now that looked mighty uncomfortable! After visiting the gardens I headed towards the capital, Port Louis, which looked very busy, so I returned to the hotel, along small roads with sugar cane both sides and villages that were so small, you had gone through them without realising.

The most hazardous part of driving, was avoiding the dogs that wandered along the roads. I arrived back to the hotel absolutely exhausted, I had, had a full 9 hours out driving around the north of the island and ended my day with a relaxing walk along the beach.

The second day exploring saw me heading west, but as it was Saturday the roads were so busy that it took hours to reach the first port of call. When I arrived at Tamarin, looking for the Waterfalls, I was directed along an awful dirt track, along the top edge of a dormant volcano, stopping at separate viewpoints to admire the Tamarin Waterfall. From up there I could see for miles over the flat plains towards the coast, and the Black River National Park in the distance. The next stop was supposed to be another Botanical Gardens, but when I eventually found it, I discovered it was now derelict. There were however, more coloured plants and flowers growing along the roadside (even more colour than at Pamplemousse).

I drove into the National Park and found Alexandra Falls, with the loveliest shaded picnic site, and a view of more waterfalls and the mountainous rainforest beyond. I spoke to a very friendly policeman who asked me where I was headed, and when I told him I was heading to Chamarel – he said that it was very hot there! Surely it wasn’t going to get hotter than it was now!

The journey to Chamarel was horrendous – the hairpin bends were the worst that I have ever driven around, especially with the steep drops at each side of the road - when there was only enough room for one vehicle! It was the longest couple of miles ever. The first part of Chamarel was to see the waterfall – the Chamarel Cascade, and although I had already seen two waterfalls that day, this one was the best – as well as water gushing down hundreds of metres, the light was catching the water just right – making rainbows in the sunshine.

Very impressive! I carried on further down towards the “Seven Coloured Earth”, along more terrifying single-track roads. What a sight I was greeted with at the bottom! It was like a lunar landscape, but in so many different shades of red, orange, brown and grey. Some people said that these volcanic mounds looked like a giant coloured tortoise shell – I preferred the likeness to the moon though. The policeman was right, it was very hot down at Chamarel – it was like being in the desert – but surrounded by dense sub tropical forest with many birds, lizards and small animals.

I stopped and had an ice cream and a rest, trying to avoid the intense sun. I was dreading travelling back up the mountain – but thankfully it wasn’t that bad. I headed back through the National Forest stopping at the viewpoint to see the Black River Gorge and the plains looking towards the coast beyond. The final stop on my itinerary for the day was the Grand Bassin, and nothing could have prepared me for the sight of that!  As I travelled through the forest, the single-track road suddenly become a 6-lane highway, and in the distance, there stood a 108-foot high statue overlooking the sacred lake, a place of pilgrimage for many Hindu people.

The spectacular statue was a bronze colour and reminded me of “The Angel of The North” and the road approaching it was so impressive; it made you feel like you were approaching Mecca! I walked around the garden at the top, and down to the lake below (which was full of fish thriving on all of the “offerings” they were being given), and saw strange concrete stools at 1-metre intervals – I think they were used for ceremonies to baptize people. It was an awesome place to see, very colourful, serene and sacred.

The drive back to the hotel took over 2 hours; and in the failing twilight it was a miracle that I didn’t run over any stray dogs, men on bicycles, wandering pedestrians or cars on the wrong side of the road! Ten hours out, I was so tired. I thought that this island wasn’t supposed to be very big – only 45 x 65 km; no one had said how hard it was to actually get around it! I had a much-needed shower, dinner, more insect repellent and went to bed – absolutely exhausted.

Sunday was my last day with the car, and I had decided to see the south of the island, which was supposed to be the rugged, windswept coastline with crashing waves. I headed off through the sugar plantations again, crossing many rivers full of boulders and swirling water. I went through one town (hamlet really) and the police told me to stop whilst a colourful parade passed us – a Hindu ceremony  – the costumes were so bright and colourful!

My first stop was a place called Gris Gris, a small cove overlooking a sandy beach below, with high cliffs and waves crashing into the granite rocks. Because there are no coral reefs to contain the waves here, they crashed spectacularly against the black rocks, which reminded me of Cornwall.  I walked around the gardens on top of the cliff top at Souillac, before heading off to find Rochester Waterfalls. They have got to be the hardest place to get to (and yesterday was bad enough), I was directed through fields upon fields of sugarcane, turning this way and then that way.

The signs got smaller and smaller, finally only showing a wave on them. I was very tempted to get out and walk when it said there was only 500 metres to go – what a good job I didn’t! Eventually, after about 30 minutes of dirt tracks, uneven roads and boulders, I got out of the car and just headed towards the noise of the water and people shouting. At the bottom of a very steep hill, I found hoards of people shouting and cheering at young men jumping off basalt rocks, very high up, into the cool, running waters below.

The falls were very picturesque, with torrents of water crashing down into the cool, deep, dark waters below, surrounded by a lush green forest. But only yards away from that cool shade, the intense sun was blazing down and the car was miles up the hill! After a struggle to get back to the car, and even more of a struggle to remember the way through the maze of sugar cane fields out onto the main road again, I headed to the coast and found a lovely sheltered spot by the beach to have lunch.

There weren’t many people about and it was good to spend some time just sitting watching the sea, which was lovely and calm, and a beautiful green colour – before heading off on the long journey back to the hotel. I stopped at a bridge to take a photograph of the river below, and saw two men jumping and swimming in the water; surprisingly one of them had no clothes on! And I thought nudity was frowned upon in Mauritius! The roads were fairly quite most of the way back; everyone must have gone home for an afternoon siesta – thank goodness. Travelling on the roads had been a complete nightmare – cars and motorbikes coming down on the wrong side of the road, sometimes on both sides at once! I felt like I didn’t have enough eyes – I just had to close my eyes, wave and laugh!

Back to the hotel for a few more days of sunshine and a much needed rest after my 3 days exploring!  I think the maps and tourist guides were wrong, the island is far bigger than they say! I enjoyed the sunshine and all the amenities that the hotel had to offer: I enjoyed long walks along the beach; I had a go at canoeing one day when the sea wasn’t too rough and swam in the sea and in the pool many times.

Although it was very hot, there was always a breeze that kept you from feeling too hot! I never got burnt, which was amazing in temperatures that were well over 30 degrees. I discovered some wonderful rock pools that were left between the granite boulders, when the tide went out – full of wonderful, little, tropical fish (neon tetras, angel fish and little black sharks). As I scrambled further and further out, searching for more interesting fish, I did the ultimate………………I slid and fell in the water. I literally sat in it, thoroughly soaking myself! But it was worth it; the sights that I saw early that morning were amongst the best I had seen from the beach. I loved the white crabs, which looked as if they had red smiley faces painted on them, scurrying into their holes when the tide had subsided. A thoroughly enjoyable time at the Ambre Hotel and on the tropical island of Mauritius!

Next I was planning a short stopover in Dubai on the way home…….....Watch out for that, its very exciting!

Please check out my other blogs ..............

http://lynnemorleys.blogspot.com

http://lynnemorley.blogspot.com

http://morleysjourneytoozandback.blogspot.com