Durham

Durham

The City of Durham in the northeast of England has so much to offer; its magnificent Cathedral and Castle are part of a UNESCO World Heritage Site - and it has so much culture, history, architecture, scenery and of course shops. Durham was one of England's walled cathedral cities, virtually impregnable as it was perched high up on a soaring peninsular, surrounded on 3 sides by the River Wear. There is evidence of its origins in Saxon and Viking times, becoming a city after 995AD, when a group of Lindisfarne monks arrived with the body of St Cuthbert, and placed it into a simple wooden church. The following century, Normans named the city Duresme, and wanting a stronghold in the north, began construction of the Cathedral and the Castle. As the city is almost surrounded by the River Wear, I started my day having a delightful walk along the tranquil riverbank where it felt as though I was in the countryside - not a stones throw away from the city centre.

There were surprises along the way, such as the Count's House, which was built in the 1820's as a folly or summerhouse; and named after Count Joseph Boruwlaski. He was  a Polish entertainer who lived here in Durham for the last 46 years of his life (dying at 97 years of age) - but he was only 3'3" tall - that is why this small house was jovially named for him.

This grotesque sculpture (which is a seat on the other side) isn't old - appeared in the 1990's and is thought of as a type of graffiti !

There are various rowing clubs based along this stretch of the river, and you can also hire rowing boats or take a leisurely boat trip on the Prince Bishop River Cruiser, which is what I opted to do.

It was a very entertaining hour on board, with a full commentary and various refreshments served; and the scenery was quite spectacular - especially the reflections.

The Cruise goes as far as the Weir - that is where you get your first glimpse of the Cathedral towering above.

For more information and times of the cruises :- http://www.princebishoprc.co.uk/

Next it was time to head up the hill into the picturesque town with its cobbled streets, market square and vibrant Indoor Market Hall - which is home to about 50 traders selling a wide variety of perishable goods, fashion items, home wares and gift ideas.

Look out for floral displays if you are there in the summer - this one represents a Bishops hat.

As you wander through the old cobbled streets you will see a huge array of old, quaint shops (as well as some modern ones) - I particularly loved this one "Durham in Bloomers"!

On the way up to the Palace Green, where you will find the Castle and the Cathedral; is Durham's World Heritage Site Visitor Centre. It is based in a refurbished almshouse, is free to get in and gives visitors an overview of what there is do see and do in this special area.
https://www.durhamworldheritagesite.com/

The Palace Green is a delightful open space where you will also find a Cafe, the Palace Green Library with exhibitions, as well as being home to the Durham Light Infantry Gallery and the Museum of Archaeology.

Building of Durham Castle commenced in the year 1072, on the orders of William the Conqueror, as a message to the Scots - that the Normans were now rulers of the country. This imposing fortress became a lavish palace for the Bishops of Durham (known as Prince Bishops), who had control of the lands between the Tyne and the Tees, raising taxes and armies to guard the area south of the border with Scotland. Despite numerous attacks over the centuries, the castle was never defeated. The last Prince Bishop, William Van Mildert was the founder of Durham University in the mid 19th century.

The only way to see inside the Castle is on a guided tour, where you can learn more of the history of this medieval stronghold.  https://www.dur.ac.uk/durham.castle/

The Romanesque Durham Cathedral has been  a place of worship for almost a thousand years. It has a fascinating history, being the final resting place of St. Cuthbert - the Bishop of Lindisfarne in the 7th century. Following Viking raids a hundred or so years later, the monks of Lindisfarne fled with St. Cuthbert's remains, and after carrying his coffin and The Lindisfarne Gospels for many years, they finally came to rest in Durham - which subsequently became a popular pilgrimage site. After the Norman Conquest, William of Calais was appointed the first Prince-Bishop of Durham and authorised the building of a grander cathedral to house the remains of St. Cuthbert. 

One of the first things I came across was the Galilee Chapel and the tomb of Venerable Bede, who is sometimes referred to as St Bede - the greatest Anglo-Saxon scholar. He lived in the 7th century and wrote over 40 books on many different subjects - he is described as The Father of English History. His bones were bought to Durham by a monk and put to rest with St Cuthbert's in 1022; and later both were given their respective places in the new Cathedral.

The inside of the Cathedral is striking with huge pillars, different types of arches and ornate carved stonework.While most churches of that time were built mainly of wood, Durham Cathedral is made entirely of stone, a really ambitious undertaking at that time, helped by the fact that there was a sandstone quarry nearby. It was the first Cathedral in this country to have its vaulted roof completely made from stone. 

There is stunning architecture throughout the Cathedral; the rib-vaulted Nave with its structural pointed arch, the dark wood carved quire stalls which are an impressive piece of craftsmanship, the marble floor and the colourful stained glass windows.

The enormous Rose window, which was originally made in medieval times, had to be redone after it was destroyed in the Reformation; and there are also various modern stained glass windows such as the Millenium Window, the Daily Bread Window and a RAF memorial window.

The colourful tomb above is that of Thomas Hatfield - one of the longest serving Prince Bishops in the 14th Century who was responsible for major improvements to the Cathedral.

St Cuthbert's relics are below this dark, simple marble slab marked ‘Cuthbertus’ and the stones around it are part of the original construction; which originally was far more ornate - studded with jewels and semi-precious stones. The elaborate shrine was destroyed in the Reformation and replaced with this simple one in 1542; but no matter what his shrine has looked like - pilgrims have always flocked to this place - seeking blessings and cures.

This prayer is recited on 20th March each year - St Cuthbert's Day.

There is far more to discover at Durham cathedral; the Cloister that has featured in Harry Potter films, The Open Treasure which is an exhibition telling the remarkable history of the Cathedral, the shop which is in the vaulted undercrofts - together with the Undercroft Restaurant. Admission to the main part of the Cathedral is free (but they do request a donation) although there is a charge to visit the Open Treasure.  https://www.durhamcathedral.co.uk/

Just a short distance from the Cathedral is the Museum and Heritage Centre, which is in an old church; it contains displays describing how the city grew from medieval times into what it is today. It is full of fascinating objects dating back hundreds of years; as well as having a shop with refreshments and a delightful garden area.

If you fancy getting away from the city, head to the Botanic Garden which is set within the University Campus just outside the city - but within walking distance.

This garden has a variety of landscapes to enjoy, and areas for everyone. There is an area specifically for children; and this section gives children the chance to get their hands dirty and have a go at making a Moss Garden.

As well as traditional flowerbeds, greenhouses, woodlands and wildflower meadows; the garden is full of quirky sculptures and objects to find; I found it absolutely delightful.

It is open every day (except Christmas), is reasonably priced to get in; and has a nice cafe and shop.
https://www.dur.ac.uk/botanic.garden/

Only a few minutes walk from the garden is another unusual treasure - The Oriental Museum, which is the only one of its kind in this part of the country. I have never been to anything like this before.

Displays are from various parts of North Africa to as far away as Southeast Asia - some dating back to prehistoric times. It is a very interesting building, on several levels (mostly accessible for wheelchairs) and very reasonably priced to get in - £1.50.

There are all sorts of things to see and learn about life in the Orient with the colourful interactive displays.

And there are even some Ancient Egyptian mummies in the North African section.

As well as very old pieces, there are more modern ones such as this shrine below from Japan, that is only about 30 years old - but beautifully ornate.

You will find fighting regalia and equipment from places as far away as Korea and Borneo. There are artefacts dating back to hundreds of years BC and colourful shrines for Hindu, Buddhist, Sikh and Shinto religions.

I can highly recommend visiting the Oriental Museum, after all the English history of Durham city - it is something totally different. https://www.dur.ac.uk/oriental.museum/

All in all, Durham has something for everyone, from the Ancient to the Modern, the Peaceful to the Lively; and if you find the right street - you may see this rainbow of umbrellas that are supposed to brighten up the dullest of days.

Thank you for taking time to follow my adventures,

Lynne

These are my other blogs :-

http://lynnejmorley.blogspot.com

http://lynnemorleys.blogspot.com

http://morleysjourneytoozandback.blogspot.com

Holy Island - Lindisfarne

The Holy Island of Lindisfarne

I was very excited to be going over to the Holy Island of Lindisfarne, and had checked the tide tables to ensure I had the most time possible from my visit. Tide tables giving the safe crossing periods are online at www.northumberland.gov.uk. It was early in the morning, and not the best of weather; but the sight of Lindisfarne Castle standing proudly on the horizon was enthralling.

As I left the mainland, the causeway, that was only built in 1953, was still wet – the tide was going out and the water glistened on the mud flats.  I was eager to get onto the island before it was too busy as although less than 200 people live on the island, more than 700,000 people visit it every year, wanting to enjoy the few hours between tides.

As I drove over on the tarmac causeway, I could see “The Pilgrims Path”, that was marked by tall wooden poles in the muddy flats. This is the route Pilgrims have used to cross since the 11th Century and although it is still a popular walk, it is fraught with danger - as it is incredible muddy.

When I eventually left the 3-mile tidal track (1 mile of which is completely covered by sea at high tide), I parked up and headed towards the castle. Holy Island has a recorded history from the 6th century and is incredibly important in the Christian world.

In 635AD St Aidan arrived here from Iona and established his Monastery, from where the Christianity spread across the world, and after Viking invasions and the Norman conquest, the priory was re-established.

It was a lovely mile walk along the coast to the castle, which looked so impressive as I approached it. Lindisfarne Castle (which now belongs to The National Trust) was built in the 1500's high on a 30-foot-high volcanic mound, to protect it from invaders; it is the highest point on the island with great panoramic views.

In the 18^th Century the Castle fell into a state of disrepair until Edward Hudson bought it and converted it into the massive house that it is now.

I loved the furnishings in the rooms, old dark oak furniture, leaded windows, stone fireplaces and a particularly impressive painting above one fireplace.

The views from the Castle were breathtaking, especially the coast with Bamburgh Castle in the distance.

Just north of the Castle are the walled gardens which Gertrude Jekyll laid out in 1911, these have been recreated to their original plans; and behind the Castle are some well-preserved examples of 19^th Century Lime Kilns.

After exploring the Castle, I headed along the shingle coastline, (that was dotted with stone Cairns), heading towards Emmanuel Head and its 15-metre-tall white pyramid (an old navigation point).

When the heavens opened, there was nowhere to shelter along that stretch of the coastal path, but as I came nearer to a long sandy stretch of beach with huge sand dunes, the sun started to come out.

I could hear such a noise in the distance, it was so loud and I had no idea what it was, but as I got closer to an area of boulders and dark rocks that appeared to be moving - I realised that they were seals.

More seals than I have ever seen in any one place. There were dark seals, light seals, spotted seals – all making such a noise. It felt a real privilege to be able to get so close to them, to be the only person about, watching them playing in the shallows shouting out to each other.

It was a very special moment. As the sun, had come out, the whole day bought on a new meaning and it gave me an idea.

Instead of rushing back to my car and leaving on the next low tide – I decided to stop on the island, to do some more exploring and leave much later in the day - on the following low tide. It was the best decision I could have made.

After walking the length of the island along the coastal path (no longer than 3 miles), I returned by the tracks through the centre of the island. This interior was mainly grassy meadows with sheep grazing, and wild flowers growing out of the sandy banks with countless bees and colourful butterflies.

As the sun was shining now the Castle looked even more magnificent as I approached it from a different angle.

Once I reached the harbour again with its fishing nets, crab pots and upturned fishing boats, I turned right and headed towards the village. There isn’t much to see in the village, and as most of the tourists had left for the day, it felt eerily deserted. It was quite idyllic though, and I felt like I had the whole place to myself; I just wished there were a few more shops open.

 

But you can’t have everything! Close to the Village Square I found the Priory and the Visitor Centre, with information about the Island and an exhibition on the famous 8^th Century ‘Lindisfarne Gospels' that were created here on Holy Island.

They are an illustrated Latin copy of the Gospels of Matthew, Mark, Luke and John, made in the memory of Cuthbert (by the artist Eadfrith who himself went on to be Bishop of Lindisfarne) and in the 10th century a monk named Aldred added an Anglo-Saxon (Old English) gloss to the Latin text. The illustrations are a fusion of Celtic, Germanic and Roman elements that are truly outstanding and were pressed, bound and then covered with a fine metal case. They are the earliest surviving English copies of the Gospels, and although they now reside in the British Library in London, there are copies of this wonderful manuscript on display in The Lindisfarne Centre.

After some time at the centre, a look at the stone carvings and displays in the shop, I carried on towards the Priory itself, which although it is now extensive ruins, I could feel how important this place used to be. An Irish monk called Saint Aidan founded the monastery in approximately 634AD; he had been sent from Iona, off the west coast of Scotland, to Northumbria, at the request of King Oswald, and he remained there until his death in 651. The most famous resident of the Priory though was St Cuthbert.

He came out of retirement on the Farne Islands to become Bishop of Lindisfarne in 684AD, although he returned to his beloved Farne Islands when became ill and died soon after, but he was buried on Lindisfarne. Legend has it that his casket was opened 11 years later and his body was still perfectly preserved – apparently, a sign of his sainthood! The location of the Island and the richness of the Priory left it open to frequent raids from Vikings, and by 875AD the Monks had fled, taking with them the bones of St Cuthbert, who is now laid to rest in Durham Cathedral.

 

The priory was re-established in Norman times as a Benedictine house and continued until the suppression in 1536 under Henry VIII, when it fell into a state of disrepair until its restoration in 1860. The current ruins that I walked around, dated from this later rebuilt priory and have a modern statue dedicated to St Cuthbert placed amongst them. The site of the original priory is now occupied by the parish church of St Mary the Virgin and is the oldest building on the island. The north aisle is known as the "fishermen's aisle" and houses the altar of St. Peter and the south aisle (used to be the altar of St. Margaret of Scotland), now houses the organ. For me, the most interesting part of the church, was the life-size wooden carving of the monks carrying St Cuthbert’s body. It didn’t feel appropriate taking photographs in this religious place – so these photos aren’t actually mine.

I needed a sit down and time to eat my picnic before I went much further, and found a grassy bank looking out towards the coast, but behind me was one of the most vibrant coloured fields I have ever seen. There were more red poppies that you could imagine – a most delightful sight. After a rest, I walked up to The Heugh and Steel End, one of the highest points on the island (after the Castle); it is a natural ridge that shelters the Priory, the village and the harbour.

There is a war memorial at the top, a coast guard station and the best views out over the ocean. I was so lucky that the weather was still being kind to me, all the extra hours that I spent wandering around the almost deserted island, would not have been nearly as pleasant if it had been raining. I sat for quite some time on the top of the ridge, just looking out to sea and thinking of the history that had been made on this smallest but most important of islands.

Just down below I could see a tiny island, St Cuthbert’s Isle, which was the original 7^th century hermitage of Cuthbert. All that can be seen now is a wooden cross on the grassy island - that is only accessible at low tide. After a rest, I walked down to the harbour again, then back through the village, stopping to buy a bottle of special Lindisfarne Mead.

In medieval times when monks inhabited the island, it was thought, “if the soul was in God's keeping, the body must be fortified with Lindisfarne mead”. The monks have long vanished, but the mead's recipe remains a secret of the family which still produces it; Lindisfarne Mead from St Aidan's Winery. As the sun began to fade, my day was nearly over. It had been the most special of days, especially since the tide came in and cut off the island from the rest of the world.

It had truly become its own little haven, a calm wilderness; and I would definitely recommend staying if tide and time permits. The sea began to retreat and once again the causeway reopened; although there weren’t many vehicles coming onto the island this late in the day. I cautiously drove over the wet tarmac, leaving behind me a wonderful place but taking with me, many beautiful memories.

More information can be found here :-

https://www.lindisfarne.org.uk/

https://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/lindisfarne-castle/trails/lindisfarne-castle-walk

Lynne

Please check out my other blogs ..............

http://lynnemorleys.blogspot.com

http://lynnemorley.blogspot.com

http://morleysjourneytoozandback.blogspot.com