Gloucester
The city of Gloucester lies on the River Severn, close to the Welsh border - between the Cotswolds and the Forest of Dean. It is surrounded by fabulous countryside and places to visit, but if you get a spare day - call in to Gloucester and see what it has to offer. It was founded in 97AD by the Romans, and tombstones and artefacts from this period can be found in the City Museum. From medieval times, due to its situation on the navigable river, it has been an important hub for industry and transport and is the country's most inland port - a status awarded by Queen Elizabeth 1st.
The Dockland area fell into disrepair throughout the last century, but has now been rejuvenated and Gloucester Quays turned into a quality shopping outlet. It is an interesting area, with large basins surrounded by soaring warehouses, some of these are now museums, offices and an antiques centre - in a prime location overlooking the canal.
This building is the National Waterways Museum, and inside it tells the story of Gloucester's docks, the River Severn and the country's canal network. It is a Grade 2 listed Grain building that has been renovated thanks to various donations including the Heritage Lottery Fund. As well as learning about the people who worked in the docks here, you can get involved with interactive exhibits, book boat trips, and of course have some refreshments in their cafe.
https://canalrivertrust.org.uk/places-to-visit/gloucester-docks
The Mariners Church in the Docklands was built in 1849 to encourage the seamen and canal boat men, from the area and those who were passing through - to sit and worship. It is a simple little church with an interesting history, lovely stained glass windows and a peaceful air about it.
Gloucester Docks was the setting for the 1970's TV series The Onedin Line, which had a huge following in its day; and started my passion for old sailing ships. When I was in Gloucester it was the Tall Ships Festival and an absolute delight to see some of these marvellous old ships in all their glory.
The Main Basin here used to be thriving with sea-going vessels, that had sailed up the 16 mile Gloucester and Sharpness Canal to off load their cargo in the heart of the city. It must have been quite a sight to see tall sailing ships and even the occasional steamer coming up the canal. After a new dock was built at the Sharpness end of the canal, for ships that were too large to come all the way to Gloucester; barges started carrying the cargo up to the city. That eventually fell into decline and by the 1980's commercial traffic had all but come to an end.
Whilst the Tall Ships Festival is on, you have to pay to walk around the basin area; but you get a wrist band that covers the whole weekend, so you can always come back the following day.
Across the basin is a dry dock area run by T.Neilson and Co., and these are now the world's leading specialists in Traditional Tall Ship renovation, carrying out repairs to ships and their rigging.
As well as having a good view of these majestic vessels, with paying for the wristband, you were allowed to actually go on them (although there was a short wait - as only so many were allowed on at one time). Now that was a bonus and an opportunity too good to miss!
I decided to have a look around The Matthew; this replica took 2 years to construct and was finished in 1996 - but standing on board, it felt hundreds of years old. The original Tudor ship The Matthew sailed from Bristol to Newfoundland in 1497 - captained by John Cabot a Venetian merchant. In 1997 she re-enacted Cabot's original journey to mark the 500th year anniversary of his historic voyage.
The Matthew is now an almost permanent feature in Bristol's Floating harbour, owned by a charity that offers free tours on board as well as pre-booked trips out on the water (many involve a meal and can last from 1 to 4 hours in length). I will definitely have to go on one of those cruises the next time I am down this way.
There are several information boards where you can learn about John Cabot and his determination to find a new trading route to the Orient; he convinced King Henry 7th to back him, and he eventually arrived at Newfoundland. He was the first known European to discover the North American continent. You can also follow the reconstruction of the new Matthew - as well as be entertained by some of the ship's crew in various aspects of life on board ship. https://matthew.co.uk/
As well as tall ships in the basin, there were colourful canal boats to see, and many places to stop for a drink or a snack. There was an area with market/craft stalls - selling all manner of unusual items. As far back as 1852 there were pleasure boats on this canal and life has come a full circle - tourism is the main activity here now.
There were steam engines to admire, a huge funfair for the children (or young at heart) and fund raising stands held by many different local organisations. It was easy to spend several hours covering everything that was on offer here.
From here, it was about a 10 minute walk into the heart of the city; where you will find most popular high street shops - but many of them are part of beautiful old historical buildings; although lots of these are really squeezed together.
Make sure you keep looking up - above the shops!
Isn't this the most unusual looking Fish & Chip shop - typically English but not in the way you think.
The Cathedral, formerly known as The Cathedral Church of St Peter and the Holy and Indivisible Trinity, is right in the heart of the city, and for me, it is the highlight of Gloucester.
The stonework on the outside of this magnificent building is so ornate. The Cathedral originated in approximately 678 AD, with the foundation of an abbey dedicated to St Peter. The original Abbey church was built in stages over the 11th - 15th centuries; solid, huge Norman architecture (inspired by ancient Rome) and later the perpendicular Gothic architecture which became traditionally English. Most of these styled buildings have been lost and this is now the earliest surviving one left in England, as well as being regarded as one of the most beautiful Cathedrals in the country.
It is free to go inside, although there is somewhere to leave a donation - if you so wish.
The Abbey was the site of the coronation of the 10 year old child King Henry 3rd in 1216 - he was the only monarch since the Norman invasion, not to be crowned in Westminster Abbey.
The ornate stonework continues inside, and the vaulted ceiling throughout the building is just mesmerising. It is hard to believe that something so incredible could have been built so long ago, without the tools and equipment we have nowadays.
There are several mirrors strategically placed so that you can admire the stained glass windows and the ceiling - make sure you have a look through to see them.
The Choir Stalls date back to about 1350 and are fabulous examples of medieval woodwork
You can have a guided tour of the Crypt (one of only 4 apsidal cathedral crypts in the country). For just £3 you can go below and see the domed passageways with vaulted hemispherical roofs, and hear stories of long ago.
There are several tombs worth a closer look - some of famous people including royalty.
This canopied shrine is the tomb of King Edward 2nd, who was murdered in 1327 at the nearby Berkeley Castle - his son commissioned the building of this tomb a few years later, which was quite an impressive sight even in those times. For over a hundred years, thousands of pilgrims came to visit the King's tomb and see the splendour that surrounded it.
The above is dedicated to Orsic, the Saxon King of the Hwicce - he founded a small religious community here in 678-9; and his sister Kyneburga was the first abbess here.
This is the tomb of William the Conqueror's eldest son Robert of Normandy (c1054-1134), but due to conflict in the family, Robert was never the King of England. He helped lead the First Crusade, seizing Jerusalem in 1099; but a few years later he was captured by his brother King Henry 1st. Sadly, he spent the remainder of his life (28 years) in Cardiff Castle and was buried here in the Abbey - this effigy was carved of him about 100 years later from a piece of bog oak..
The Cathedral is full of fabulous stained glass windows - as well as traditional ones, these here are different but also incredibly beautiful.
The Great East Window has the largest overall area of any medieval cathedral in Britain, created in the mid 14th century; and the majority of the glass you see today is still the original. It was commissioned by Edward 3rd to glorify the chapel, in honour of his late father, and at that time it was the largest window ever seen.
You can climb the stairs and view the Cathedral from a completely different angle; glass walls have been added so you can make the most of the view. There are also information boards and interactive things to do on this upper level.
If you head towards the Great East window, there is a passageway leading behind the glass; it was built about 1350 to connect the north and south side of the Tribune Gallery. The angle of the walls in this passageway cause sound waves to bounce - making the slightest whisper heard at the opposite end of the passageway - like the whispering Galleries of St Paul's in London and St Peter's in Rome.
Half way through the Whispering Gallery look out for this figure of Jesus, which is over 1000 years old - it was found in the Bishop's garden only 150 years ago.
I loved the view from these higher galleries; the colour of the mosaic floor and woodwork below, the carved, arched galleries and columns; and of course the spectacular vaulted carved stone ceilings.
Outside is an attractive garden area around the cloisters; the fan vaulted roof of the inside of these cloisters were used in the Harry Potter films. The Cathedral has also been the setting in a few Doctor Who episodes, The Hollow Crown, Wolf Hall and Sherlock.
For more information on the Cathedral https://www.gloucestercathedral.org.uk/
In the area around the Cathedral, there are medieval buildings, some in better condition than others - but they are always quite an awe inspiring sight.
This is the Little Cloister House with a fabulous facade, and its carved stone garden wall, surrounding a colourful cottage garden.
Heading back through the city - look out for the Mural below on the wall of Sainsbury's. It shows images of the Dobunni tribe, who lived in the area at the time of the Roman Conquest, through Saxon, Norman and medieval times - it is an interesting depiction of Gloucester's history.
Finally, as you are walking though the city, keep looking down the alley ways - you never know what you may find in a courtyard. Behind the New Inn public house is this delightful area to sit and have a drink and they even have singers dressed as mariners - to entertain the crowd.
I thoroughly enjoyed my day in Gloucester - it has so much to offer.
Lynne
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