Durham
The City of Durham in the northeast of England has so much to offer; its magnificent Cathedral and Castle are part of a UNESCO World Heritage Site - and it has so much culture, history, architecture, scenery and of course shops. Durham was one of England's walled cathedral cities, virtually impregnable as it was perched high up on a soaring peninsular, surrounded on 3 sides by the River Wear. There is evidence of its origins in Saxon and Viking times, becoming a city after 995AD, when a group of Lindisfarne monks arrived with the body of St Cuthbert, and placed it into a simple wooden church. The following century, Normans named the city Duresme, and wanting a stronghold in the north, began construction of the Cathedral and the Castle. As the city is almost surrounded by the River Wear, I started my day having a delightful walk along the tranquil riverbank where it felt as though I was in the countryside - not a stones throw away from the city centre.
There were surprises along the way, such as the Count's House, which was built in the 1820's as a folly or summerhouse; and named after Count Joseph Boruwlaski. He was a Polish entertainer who lived here in Durham for the last 46 years of his life (dying at 97 years of age) - but he was only 3'3" tall - that is why this small house was jovially named for him.
This grotesque sculpture (which is a seat on the other side) isn't old - appeared in the 1990's and is thought of as a type of graffiti !
There are various rowing clubs based along this stretch of the river, and you can also hire rowing boats or take a leisurely boat trip on the Prince Bishop River Cruiser, which is what I opted to do.
It was a very entertaining hour on board, with a full commentary and various refreshments served; and the scenery was quite spectacular - especially the reflections.
The Cruise goes as far as the Weir - that is where you get your first glimpse of the Cathedral towering above.
For more information and times of the cruises :- http://www.princebishoprc.co.uk/
Next it was time to head up the hill into the picturesque town with its cobbled streets, market square and vibrant Indoor Market Hall - which is home to about 50 traders selling a wide variety of perishable goods, fashion items, home wares and gift ideas.
Look out for floral displays if you are there in the summer - this one represents a Bishops hat.
As you wander through the old cobbled streets you will see a huge array of old, quaint shops (as well as some modern ones) - I particularly loved this one "Durham in Bloomers"!
On the way up to the Palace Green, where you will find the Castle and the Cathedral; is Durham's World Heritage Site Visitor Centre. It is based in a refurbished almshouse, is free to get in and gives visitors an overview of what there is do see and do in this special area.
https://www.durhamworldheritagesite.com/
https://www.durhamworldheritagesite.com/
The Palace Green is a delightful open space where you will also find a Cafe, the Palace Green Library with exhibitions, as well as being home to the Durham Light Infantry Gallery and the Museum of Archaeology.
Building of Durham Castle commenced in the year 1072, on the orders of William the Conqueror, as a message to the Scots - that the Normans were now rulers of the country. This imposing fortress became a lavish palace for the Bishops of Durham (known as Prince Bishops), who had control of the lands between the Tyne and the Tees, raising taxes and armies to guard the area south of the border with Scotland. Despite numerous attacks over the centuries, the castle was never defeated. The last Prince Bishop, William Van Mildert was the founder of Durham University in the mid 19th century.
The only way to see inside the Castle is on a guided tour, where you can learn more of the history of this medieval stronghold. https://www.dur.ac.uk/durham.castle/
The Romanesque Durham Cathedral has been a place of worship for almost a thousand years. It has a fascinating history, being the final resting place of St. Cuthbert - the Bishop of Lindisfarne in the 7th century. Following Viking raids a hundred or so years later, the monks of Lindisfarne fled with St. Cuthbert's remains, and after carrying his coffin and The Lindisfarne Gospels for many years, they finally came to rest in Durham - which subsequently became a popular pilgrimage site. After the Norman Conquest, William of Calais was appointed the first Prince-Bishop of Durham and authorised the building of a grander cathedral to house the remains of St. Cuthbert.
One of the first things I came across was the Galilee Chapel and the tomb of Venerable Bede, who is sometimes referred to as St Bede - the greatest Anglo-Saxon scholar. He lived in the 7th century and wrote over 40 books on many different subjects - he is described as The Father of English History. His bones were bought to Durham by a monk and put to rest with St Cuthbert's in 1022; and later both were given their respective places in the new Cathedral.
The inside of the Cathedral is striking with huge pillars, different types of arches and ornate carved stonework.While most churches of that time were built mainly of wood, Durham Cathedral is made entirely of stone, a really ambitious undertaking at that time, helped by the fact that there was a sandstone quarry nearby. It was the first Cathedral in this country to have its vaulted roof completely made from stone.
There is stunning architecture throughout the Cathedral; the rib-vaulted Nave with its structural pointed arch, the dark wood carved quire stalls which are an impressive piece of craftsmanship, the marble floor and the colourful stained glass windows.
The enormous Rose window, which was originally made in medieval times, had to be redone after it was destroyed in the Reformation; and there are also various modern stained glass windows such as the Millenium Window, the Daily Bread Window and a RAF memorial window.
St Cuthbert's relics are below this dark, simple marble slab marked ‘Cuthbertus’ and the stones around it are part of the original construction; which originally was far more ornate - studded with jewels and semi-precious stones. The elaborate shrine was destroyed in the Reformation and replaced with this simple one in 1542; but no matter what his shrine has looked like - pilgrims have always flocked to this place - seeking blessings and cures.
This prayer is recited on 20th March each year - St Cuthbert's Day.
There is far more to discover at Durham cathedral; the Cloister that has featured in Harry Potter films, The Open Treasure which is an exhibition telling the remarkable history of the Cathedral, the shop which is in the vaulted undercrofts - together with the Undercroft Restaurant. Admission to the main part of the Cathedral is free (but they do request a donation) although there is a charge to visit the Open Treasure. https://www.durhamcathedral.co.uk/
Just a short distance from the Cathedral is the Museum and Heritage Centre, which is in an old church; it contains displays describing how the city grew from medieval times into what it is today. It is full of fascinating objects dating back hundreds of years; as well as having a shop with refreshments and a delightful garden area.
If you fancy getting away from the city, head to the Botanic Garden which is set within the University Campus just outside the city - but within walking distance.
This garden has a variety of landscapes to enjoy, and areas for everyone. There is an area specifically for children; and this section gives children the chance to get their hands dirty and have a go at making a Moss Garden.
As well as traditional flowerbeds, greenhouses, woodlands and wildflower meadows; the garden is full of quirky sculptures and objects to find; I found it absolutely delightful.
It is open every day (except Christmas), is reasonably priced to get in; and has a nice cafe and shop.
https://www.dur.ac.uk/botanic.garden/
Only a few minutes walk from the garden is another unusual treasure - The Oriental Museum, which is the only one of its kind in this part of the country. I have never been to anything like this before.
Displays are from various parts of North Africa to as far away as Southeast Asia - some dating back to prehistoric times. It is a very interesting building, on several levels (mostly accessible for wheelchairs) and very reasonably priced to get in - £1.50.
There are all sorts of things to see and learn about life in the Orient with the colourful interactive displays.
And there are even some Ancient Egyptian mummies in the North African section.
As well as very old pieces, there are more modern ones such as this shrine below from Japan, that is only about 30 years old - but beautifully ornate.
You will find fighting regalia and equipment from places as far away as Korea and Borneo. There are artefacts dating back to hundreds of years BC and colourful shrines for Hindu, Buddhist, Sikh and Shinto religions.
I can highly recommend visiting the Oriental Museum, after all the English history of Durham city - it is something totally different. https://www.dur.ac.uk/oriental.museum/
All in all, Durham has something for everyone, from the Ancient to the Modern, the Peaceful to the Lively; and if you find the right street - you may see this rainbow of umbrellas that are supposed to brighten up the dullest of days.
Thank you for taking time to follow my adventures,
Lynne
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