Dalmatian Coast, Bosnia & Herzegovina
and Montenegro
It was a long drive up the
coast from Dubrovnik airport, but so picturesque with tall cypress trees, marble
white coves, serene blue sea and tangerine roof tops in the passing villages.
We crossed a huge river delta where many crops, including grape vines, were
being grown; before heading inland through tunnels of granite mountains before
coming out at the delightful coast again.
We eventually arrived at our hotel on
the island of Ciovo, which was to be our base for 3 nights - a quiet
picturesque place - right on the water’s edge. Next morning, we passed remnants
of a Roman forum and an aqueduct on our way to the beautiful city of Split - Croatia's
second-largest city, and a great place to experience Dalmatia’s history –
described as stepping back into 4th century Rome. Split is most
famous for its Diocletian’s Palace (a UNESCO World Heritage site and one of the
greatest remaining structures of the Roman Empire) now home to dozens of bars,
restaurants and shops thriving amid the old walls.
I headed along the Riva, a seafront promenade
which was given a facelift in 2007, with beautiful marble flagstones laid
beneath hundreds of palm trees; and I sat a while overlooking the turquoise
waters of the Adriatic. The Riva runs along the palace’s southern wall, into
which shops, cafés and a warren of tiny flats have been built.
The lanes that have been trodden on for centuries, really give you the feeling of stepping back in time – the cobblestones worn so smooth that many have become very slippery.
The photo is a reconstruction of how the
Palace would have looked in 305AD done by Ernest Hebrard in 1912, and gives an
idea of its complexity, as it was then and as it remains even now. The main
approach to the palace is through the Bronze Gate, a functional gateway that
originally had access to the sea - which once came right up to the palace,
although that land has since been reclaimed to form the Riva. Inside the palace
walls is a vaulted space which was once the basement of Diocletian’s central
hall, it is now occupied by arts and crafts stalls.
The area has such a unique
historical heritage, having grown from the lavish palace built here by the
Roman Emperor Diocletian in 295AD, when he came back to his native Illyria to
escape the worries of Empire, and to cure his rheumatism. The palace was built using marble from Italy,
and with columns and sphinxes from Egypt; it measures about 200m x 240m, with
walls 2m thick and almost 25m high, with a fortified keep, and 4 towers. During
medieval times the palace was integrated into the town, gradually transformed
into a warren of houses, tenements, churches and chapels by the various peoples
who came to live here after the Romans had departed.
The centre area resembles a Roman Forum, an awesome sight that made you feel minute amongst the towering columns – and there were a few Roman Centurions walking about to add to the atmosphere!
It was fascinating to see the buildings that remain, such as
Diocletian’s mausoleum (now the cathedral which is very reasonably priced to
see – you can also go down into the crypt), the Temple of Jupiter; as well as
newer buildings such as the Church Sv Frane at the end of the Riva.
The Gallery
of Fine Arts is outside the walls and opposite is the ruins of the medieval
chapel that belonged to the Monastery of St Arnir built in 1060A which is
encased in glass, and the statue of Gregorius of Nin. The Walls still surround
3 sides of the Palace and are crumbling in places, but they still give a good
impression of their impenetrability.
There is a market selling tourist wares
and produce just outside the walls, by a shaded park; and the coaches stop
close by – so you don’t have too walk too far to see the best sights. There are
no fish sold at this market – it has its very own market next to the spa
complex – apparently the smell of sulphur keeps the flies away!
The spa is not
for general use though – you can only go there with a doctor’s prescription. It
was a delightful few hours spent in this fascinating city, that was thriving
with tourists arriving by sea and land, to marvel at its ancient wonders. Next
stop was Trogir, a medieval citadel and one of the most charming ports in
Dalmatia, which in 1997 was awarded World Heritage status due to its many
Romanesque and Renaissance buildings.
The old town is actually a small island
set within medieval walls, a maze of chaotic lanes behind impregnable ramparts.
It is linked by bridges to both the mainland and to the larger island of Čiovo.
Greeks from the island of Vis founded the settlement Tragurion in the 3rd
century BC, which then went on to become part of the Roman Empire, was ruled later
by the Hungarian and Croatians and in 1420 it became part of the Venetian
Empire, until its fall in 1797. Trogir then became part of the Austrian Empire
until World War I, when it was part of Yugoslavia, although it was occupied by
Italy during World War II; and since 1991, the town has been part of Croatia.
Trogir’s
best attraction is its ornate Cathedral of St Lawrence, on which building work
started in 1213, on a site where a previous cathedral once stood. The bell
tower was built between the 14th and 16th centuries and can be climbed to see
fantastic views from the top.
The entrance fee was very reasonable, only 25KN,
and it has many interesting sights – especially the carvings by the main door of
Adam and Eve standing on the backs of Venetian Lions.
I decided to go up the
bell tower (the sign said, “At your own risk”, and I would never have believed
it could have been so dangerous). The first spiral staircase was bad enough, but
when I reached the final section – it was a metal ladder with no handrail. So,
don’t start going up if you are worried about safety and heights, as it isn’t
very easy to get back down.
There are fabulous panoramic views at the top,
which I thoroughly enjoyed seeing, but it really is a dangerous climb. Within
the cathedral is the Chapel of St John, built in 1468 which is considered the
best Renaissance sight in Dalmatia.
A city loggia stands near the cathedral,
constructed in the 14th century with an interesting marble sculpture on the
wall at one end. Over the years, it has had a number of uses, including that of
a court, a place to make announcements and somewhere for weary travellers to
rest.
I particularly loved the narrow lanes and city walls, parts which were
built as long ago as the 13th century, and the gates where you enter
the city.
The main approach to Trogir is over a quaint medieval stone bridge,
with cafes and market stalls running down one side of the waters edge; but on
the opposite side of the city (which is only about 200 yards away) is a contrasting
wide palm-tree lined promenade, with bars, cafes, yachts and boats offering
trips.
At the end of the promenade is the imposing Camerlengo Fortress, and
several well-preserved houses by the South Gate, including the local Primary
school and the Harbour Masters House. Heading back through the town, which was
surprising quiet, through the colourful, narrow lanes, I came out by the bridge
and sat in the shaded park for a few minutes enjoying the surroundings.
I
really had enjoyed my time in Trogir and would like to have spent longer there
– for me, it had such charm and the most fabulous outlook over the Adriatic with
the mountains in the distance. The next day was one I had really been looking
forward to, ever since visiting Croatia’s other National Park, Plitvice,
several years ago. Krka National Park is a natural karst phenomenon that covers
an area of 109 km², it is named after the beautiful Krka River and was proclaimed
a national park in 1985. The Park is a
predominantly unchanged area of exceptional beauty, with 17 waterfalls coming
from the 72 km long Krka River which rises at the foot of the Dinara mountain. There
are wild boar, deer, otters, badgers, wild cats and many types of rodents
living in the forest as well as hundreds of species birds and insects. The area
has the second highest concentration of lavender in Europe, hence the high
frequency of wasps and bees.
The entrance to the park is where you get the
first jaw-dropping views of the falls, here you can visit the mill, a museum,
several shops, cafes, free toilets and the 18th century Church of St
Nicholas – the protector of travellers.
Then you follow the Lozovac boardwalk
which is 1900 metres long and will take you anything from 30 – 60 minutes
depending how many stops you make. I have never seen so many fish in the water
– they were everywhere, and the odd turtle; and the beautiful blue butterflies
and dragonflies!
There are various information boards all along the way to read
too – so there is no need to rush. Finally, you will arrive at what is called
“The Meadow” - Skradinski buk, described as one of the most beautiful calcium
carbonate waterfalls in Europe; it is a massive, clear, natural pool with high
waterfalls at one end and cascades at the other.
This is where people are
allowed to swim, although there aren’t any changing facilities and it isn’t
easy to get into the water from the rocks; despite this, there are always
hundreds of people just having to go for a dip in such an iconic setting.
There
are wooden cabins selling pancakes and drinks, and a fast food outlet with
hundreds of picnic tables under the shady trees and toilets here, which you
have to pay for, but the queues can be horrendous! From this area you can take a
walking trail or catch the boat to Skradin.
We went by boat down the river and
I was surprised what a quaint town Skradin is; again, it has the typical
narrow, cobbled lanes, steps everywhere, a fortress and churches, as well as a
modern visitors centre. There is a children’s park, a lovely beach area and its
waterfront is lined with cafes and bars along to the marina.
Back at the hotel
it was time to pack, as the next day we would be ending up at our new hotel in
Dubrovnik. Early the following morning we headed to Mostar in Bosnia and
Herzegovina, which is perched high up on towering cliffs, looking down over the
turbulent river below. It was once a provincial capital of the Ottoman Empire, one
of the most ethnically diverse cities in the country, and today is still
suffering division of ethnic groups; there are 3 of everything, schools,
hospitals, etc - for the Croats, Bosniaks and the Serbs. The city was the most
heavily bombed of any Bosnian city during the war following the breakup of
Yugoslavia, and evidence can still be seen everywhere - with bullet holes still
visible in many buildings. At the beginning of the war, air strikes destroyed 90%
of the city and most of its historical buildings. As Berlin had its “Wall”,
Mostar had its “Bulevar” – a boulevard that was the overnight division,
dividing families for years - it was the frontline of the fighting.
We parked
next to Mostar Peace Bell Tower which was constructed after the “last war” as
they call it – they are always expecting the next war. As we walked towards the
Old Town, being told about the atrocities that happened not that long ago - the
melancholy was overwhelming. We went
into Tabacia Mosque, a small, simple Ottoman mosque originally built in 1618,
but reconstructed after its destruction in the war. It has a small courtyard
and a minaret that can be climbed to see great views over the town.
Next to
this is The Hammam Museum, where you can experience local customs or perhaps
have a massage. Very soon we were on the bridge itself next, which I was
expecting to be slippery (as we had been warned), but there were lines of raised
cobbles – to help you keep your grip – so it wasn’t a problem. We had also been
advised about the number of pickpockets and gypsies – especially female ones;
and this was evident everywhere you turned, and it did make me feel slightly
intimidated.
Mostar is most famous for its beautiful historic Ottoman-style
bridge, which spans the Neretva River, although the original one was completely
destroyed by the Croatian army in the last war. Through combined international efforts,
rebuilding of The Old Bridge was completed in 2004, almost 11 years after its
destruction, using some original pieces recovered from the river below. The 21-metre-high
bridge, linking 2 halves of the old town, is the highlight of any visit to
Mostar and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Old Town is a beautiful place
again, that has now been rebuilt and you wouldn’t know that these buildings
were very new – as original building materials have been used; but you only
need to look further past these buildings to see remnants of the destruction.
Immediately over the bridge is the Old Bridge Museum, with exhibits on the
history of the bridge, a panoramic view from the top, and a video detailing the
reconstruction of the bridge. I was
surprised how much Turkish influence is in the local shops; and as well as
buying normal souvenirs, you can purchase traditional metalwork items, many
still being made in the tiny workshops - as they have been done for centuries.
We visited Biscevica House, a traditional Ottoman house, one that was still
standing after the war – an interesting place where we were told about the age-old
traditions of the family that lived there, and we were taken to see into a few of
their rooms.
Afterwards, I wandered back through the old town, browsing in the
delightful little shops; then headed down to what is known as The Beach – the
area below the bridge, to take photos and wait to see if anyone jumped off,
once they have collected enough money from passing tourists. The bridge really
is one of those sights that captivates you.
Then I found an absolutely delightful area with a water wheel and the
smaller Crooked Bridge - which was there as early as 1558. This area was
nothing at all like the rest of the city – more like a rural village tucked
away somewhere.
Although it had been a damp dreary day in Mostar, it was more
interesting and photogenic that I had expected – well worth the tedious coach
journey that was only spoilt by the ridiculously long border crossings. We
continued back into Croatia again and then on to Dubrovnik which was to be our
base for the next 4 nights. Dubrovnik is such an amazing place, with so much to
see – I have decided to do a blog purely on what delights it has to offer. After
exploring Dubrovnik, we were on the move again – this time over the border to the
small country of Montenegro (meaning Black Mountain). The border crossings were
the worst part of the trips, mostly we were waiting an hour at each customs
station; and it did make our days far longer than they should have been! Montenegro
is only 300km across but has spectacular scenery, with rugged, forested
mountains, medieval walled villages and beaches with crystal clear waters that
run along its Adriatic coastline. Montenegro has sat on the borderline between
the east and west for centuries; and the richness of its cultural history can
be seen everywhere you look; flamboyant Orthodox monasteries, ornate Catholic
churches, elegant minarets, and sturdy fortresses built by the numerous powers
that have ruled over these lands.
We drove along the winding Bay of Kotor,
described as a huge inland sea, but resembling a lake. It is dotted with
coastal medieval fortified towns such as Herceg Novi, Tivat and Kotor - a UNESCO
Town backed by steep limestone cliffs, located on the shores of the only
natural fjord of its kind in the world. The coastline looked immaculate, with the
mirror-like sapphire ocean, reflecting the surrounding mountains and the
picturesque islands of “Our Lady of the Rocks” and Sveti Djordje “The Island of
the Dead Captains”!
Our Lady of the
Rocks is one of the Bay’s top attractions, the church is built on a man-made
island that was founded over 500 years ago. The bay is about 28 km long
surrounded by the Dinaric Alps; and it was a delightful hour travelling right
by the water’s edge, passing camping grounds and fish farms. My only disappointment
was that we didn’t stop for photos, so, I only managed to get ones whilst
travelling from the coach until we reached the town of Kotor.
This old Venetian
town sits deep in the heart of the bay, is surrounded by walls and backed by
sheer mountainside. It is hard to believe that cruise liners manage to get this
far inland and dock here.
There is a Tourist information kiosk just outside the
main entrance, The Sea Gate, where you can pick up a free useful city map. Inside
Kotor’s impenetrable walls, the town is a labyrinth of cobblestone alleyways,
worn smooth by footsteps over thousands of years.
It is said to have been built
like a maze to confuse invaders; but I followed the inner-city walls (I was
getting a dab hand at city walls now!) walking from Kampana Tower to Bambo
Bastion and had no problems.
There was a great view of the Skurda – a type of
moat around one side of the wall and the mountain with the Outer Walls rising
above. Apart from the quaintest tourist shops, and lively restaurants, I loved
the picturesque alleyways and quiet squares – there is always something
different to see.
There is a maritime museum, 9 palaces, more than 12 places of
worship, including Saint Tryphon’s Cathedral originally built in 1166, Saint
Nicholas Orthodox Church, the Town Clock Tower built in 1602 - and the Cats
Museum of Kotor. If you don’t want to
shop, you can hike the 1355 steps up to San Giovanni Fortress behind Kotor Old
town for breath-taking views of the Bay of Kotor.
Unfortunately, the heaven’s
opened whilst I was there, and I wasn’t able to go up to see the view, but it
did make for some atmospheric photos! After 2 hours in Kotor, we headed to Budva,
a popular resort on the Adriatic Sea; the Budva Riviera is 21 km long, and is
known for its natural beauty, sandy beaches, expensive boutiques and its nightlife.
Budva is another medieval town surrounded by stone walls built by the Venetians,
with narrow lanes and unusual shops, (including a One Euro Shop!), and charming
squares, although much of it had been damaged by an earthquake in 1979.
There
are more City Walls to walk around here, with several arched gates to enter by;
the Old Citadel, and Churches of Sv. Trojica, Sv. Ivan, Sv. Bogorodica, Sv.
Sava, the 9th century Church of Santa Maria in Punta and an Archaeological
museum.
To one side of the walled town is Richard’s Head beach with its sun beds
and umbrellas; whereas on the opposite side of the walls is the marina where
you will find expensive boats, as well as trips being offered to various
islands. There is a shaded tree-lined promenade with shops running towards the
old town, and a pathway running parallel to it, along the marina with mostly restaurants
and bars – ending at a fairground and market.
Much of this area was closed and
it looked as if it would only be open at night time when I am sure it would
come to life. There were many cheap touristy stalls here, and I did find the
area quite seedy and felt uncomfortable walking around - I was glad to be back
on the coach. We didn’t have such a long drive back, as we caught the 5-minute
ferry across the opening to the Bay of Kotor to save us travelling all the way
around it again. It had been an interesting visit to this small country, and
was far more picturesque than I had ever expected, even though it had been a
dull rainy day. Although we weren’t too many miles away from our base in
Dubrovnik, it did take quite a while to get back because of the annoying border
crossings. But all in all, it was a very interesting trip, a marvellous way to
experience 3 of the Balkan countries in a short space of time; although Dubrovnik
was my favourite part - look out for that blog!
https://lynnemorley.blogspot.com/2018/08/dubrovnik.html
https://lynnemorley.blogspot.com/2018/08/dubrovnik.html
Lynne
Please check out my other blogs ..............
It actually feels like being walked around through such lovely, picturesque sights. Keep writing.
ReplyDelete