Lynne's Travels : March 2017

Iguazzu Falls

After a nightmare journey from Santiago to Buenos Aires, where you have to collect your suitcase, pass through immigration and check in all over again (allow at least a minimum of 3 hours), I finally landed at Iguazzu airport. What a relief that was after how close I had been to missing my connection earlier in the day! I was upset there was no money exchanges at the airport, as I hadn't been able to get any Argentinean pesos before I arrived - it is a closed currency. But it was easy enough to get a taxi to my hotel, and they accepted payment in US dollars or Euros. The highway from the airport was very straight, with dense jungle on both sides; bright brick-red soil and signs saying beware of a multitude of strange looking animals. Apparently there are pumas and jaguars lurking about as well as the 'normal' monkeys, deer and a type of raccoon. Just as we reached the city of Iguazzu, we had to stop at a checkpoint, where all newcomers have to pay $2 city tax. When I arrived at my hotel, there was a power cut, so I was shown to my room and told that I could sort the check-in out later. I had just finished unpacking when there was a knock at my door; the manager said I wasn't booked into his hotel!

So I spent the next hour on the phone trying to sort out why my paperwork said one thing and their system said another. Upshot was, I had to repack and get a taxi to another hotel, which did end up being a lot nicer than the original one. So by the end of the day I was even more exhausted than I expected. Smothered in insect repellent, I took myself off for dinner, through trees, past a swamp that was the centre feature of the hotel complex - catching sight of a 3-foot long lizard and a black butterfly that was as big as a bird. Then it was early to bed eager for my exciting day tomorrow.

I had a leisurely morning visiting the Eco Park that was next to the hotel; it had the most amazing butterfly house. I have never seen so many butterflies so close - as well as brightly coloured ones, there were huge ones that looked like bark off a tree - they blended in so well.

There were snakes, crocodiles and tortoises in pens, but lots of lizards and birds about in the wild. After a relaxing swim I was collected for my trip to the Brazilian side of the world famous Iguazzu Falls - one of the Seven Wonders of the World. We had to pass through rigorous checks to pass over into Brazil, which took over an hour, but the locals say that at least they don't have trouble like in Europe.

I saw stalls by the roadside selling hammocks - now that was a first. Once I had my ticket to get into the National Park, Bruno my guide collected me again and we headed off through the jungle to the falls. No one is allowed to walk or cycle in the park anymore - the risk from jaguars and pumas is too great; so everyone has to be in a bus or car. All the grass verges were so immaculately kept, you could be forgiven for thinking you were in an English park – not at the edge of the jungle, well you were actually in the jungle!

At the first vantage point, it did tell you what to do if you came across a jaguar - scary stuff! Then I spotted the Falls. I could not believe they were so magnificent, so much more magnificent than I had ever expected. In the midst of dense sub tropical jungle, 275 separate cascades crash down over horseshoe precipice nearly 5 kilometres wide and 90 metres high.

At every viewpoint there was a different breathtaking view, behind there were more cascades as well as in front – as far as I could see in every direction. The pathway took me up and down, getting closer to the edge of the falls - the thundering noise getting louder and louder. Large lizards and coatamundi (a relative of the raccoon) ran across the paths; and I was always on the lookout for a big cat.

As I got nearer to the falls, a walkway went out parallel to them and I knew I was going to get wet, but I just had to go out and see what it felt like having that spray fall onto me - it was a real pleasure especially in the heat of the afternoon. At one time I was right next to the edge of the wall of water and couldn't hear myself think, and then I went up a lift and I was looking down on them from above.

Always they were a truly splendid sight. Although most of the falls are actually on the Argentinean side, many people say they are best viewed from the Brazilian side. They were so much more impressive than I had expected, especially as it was the rainy season and there was a greater volume of water crashing down over the top into the valley below.

After I had taken in the atmosphere and taken enough photographs of the most incredible natural boundary between 2 countries, I was taken to the local bird park. What a fantastic place that was; I would highly recommend spending a whole day there not just a few hours.

As well as more tropical bird species than I have ever seen anywhere in the world, there were snakes, crocodiles, butterflies and iguanas. The aviaries were so big that you didn't realise you were in one, full of every sort of parrot imaginable. The toucans stole the show for me though, one just came walking right up to me - they were so tame and so adorable. It is described as the most spectacular bird park in South America and I could see why, I have never seen so many exotic species in their natural habitat. After a quick visit to the gift shop, I was taken home, back through the nightmare immigration queues. I had had an unforgettable day and had enjoyed every second of this magical experience.

Next day I was collected early as it was time to see the perspective of the Iguazzu Falls from the Argentinean side. On the way to the National Park, a jaguar ran out in front of the car, too quick for me to get a shot - but what a start to the day.

It wasn't such a surprise then to see warning signs everywhere saying beware of jaguars and pumas. I arrived at the park really early and the crowds weren't bad at all, I caught a train to the furthest point - Devils Throat and went along the walkway to the platform at the end.

As I got nearer to the end, the noise was so loud, but what an experience it was - to be standing over the top of such a magnitude of thundering water, gushing down beneath your feet. The spray was so forceful; it was literally like being in a power shower.

It is the single most impressive cascade, and to me it looked quite terrifying. The water swirling down was like the most violent plughole imaginable. I tried to take a few photos but I was getting so wet that my camera was just a screen of water droplets, luckily my mobile phone managed to capture a few better ones for me to be able to remember this brilliant, even if it was a soaking experience.

I could see remnants of where a previous walkway had been washed away by torrential floodwaters, and there was a lone turtle perched on a boulder. I had dried off considerably by the time I returned to the train station; the sun was getting hot now. The next stop was a hike to the lower falls, through the jungle.

My guide was really nervous at any movement or sound that was made, he was always on the lookout for 'a wildcat' he said, and he was quite genuine about it. Also, only a few weeks earlier, he was attacked by a snake here in the park - so his umbrella wasn't for the sun or spray, it was for protection!

I began to think that there was more the risk of being attacked by an animal here – than being mugged!

He did point out several different lizards, many of the raccoon-type creature (that was very naughty stealing food), and a crocodile lying in the muddy water beneath a bridge.

There were many vantage points along the way, especially views down into the gorges below, as well as the falls in the distance. I could see dozens of vultures hovering above the spray of the highest falls, many landing on the rocky island in the centre of the gorge. I continued on, on the next track to the upper falls; stopping everywhere to take another shot.

They all looked very different from each other and I couldn't believe how many different individual names they all had - Two Sisters, Bosetti, Mbigua, Adam and Eve, to name just a few. When I got to the top of the Upper Trail it was time to get wet again, but I was so hot by now, that I welcomed it.

More wildlife spotting on the way back to the car park, the only thing I hadn't managed to see was a monkey in the wild, so I wasn’t too disappointed.

It had been a thoroughly enjoyable time in Iguazzu, I was so glad that I had gone out of my way to see this incredible place and I would recommend it to everyone who gets the chance. It certainly is one of the Seven Wonders of the World.