Ancient Greece
Ancient history is always something that has fascinated me, so when a trip came up, off I went to Athens to find out more about this historical area. Athens is surrounded by barren land and three mountains, showing white chalk and marble on all sides - and miles of pine trees. As the city has grown, the archaic streets have not been widened or updated; so with no modern infrastructure - the traffic doesn't flow very easily. The city is centred around the iconic Acropolis Hill - which can be seen from miles around as you approach Athens.
On the way to the hotel, I was amazed how many different styles of architecture there were, from so many periods throughout history - Classical, Byzantine, Venetian, Arabic and Roman. The Government buildings, museums and places of worship looked fabulous.
The only real full day we had in the city started early, visiting the famed Acropolis Hill, an ancient citadel with monuments found atop of the rocky outcrop. I had always though the Acropolis was the structure on the top - but that is the Parthenon which is constantly being renovated. It was quite a walk up the hill, which is paved with marble and stone in intricate designs.
There is evidence that this hill was inhabited as early as the 4th Century BC - it was Pericles (c495-429 BC) who co-ordinated the construction of the buildings whose remains are at the top.
This magnificent structure was begun in the 5th Century BC and has continually been added to and repaired. One of the first things we saw was the Theatre of Herodes Atticus (built in 161AD), this is still used as a concert arena for present day stars.
The columns are such an awesome sight - how they tower over you. The buildings which have survived, including the Parthenon, are the Propylaea, the Erechtheion (Poseidon) and the Temple of Athena Nike.
This is the Porch of the Caryatids, a series of statues of 6 female figures, which support the false roof on the Erechtheion. The name comes from the word Karyatides (maidens of there), an ancient Peloponnesian town which had a temple devoted to Artemis Karyatis - these maidens would dance with baskets of plants on their heads.
There is constant ongoing work to repair all the structures; using new materials as well as old. You can see rocks, stoneware and parts of columns everywhere you look. And believe it or not...... there are toilets on the top too!
Up here is supposed to be where the Goddess Athena won the hearts of the people when she planted an Olive tree - which was a gift for the city. In her wisdom, it was no ordinary plant, but promised the Athenians not only food (in the form of its fruit), but oil for cooking, lighting and medicine - as well as a vital commodity for trading with.
After being shown all that was up there, we were taken back down a different route (to avoid congestion), and spent several hours visiting the Acropolis Museum.
This is one of the most important museums in the world containing amazing archaeological artefacts. It is actually built on top of ruins, which was Roman and early Byzantine Athens; and was built to contain every artefact that was found on the rock and its slopes dating back to the Bronze Age.
There are some fascinating pieces to see, but there are areas you aren't allowed to photograph and they are very strict about that.
These statues show the back of the Caryatids with their intricately braided plaits.
This is one of my favourite pieces from the Museum - it is called the Magic Sphere. On it, you will see the God Helios, a lion, a dragon and magical symbols. It was found near the Theatre of Dionysos, which held fighting contests, suggesting the sphere was used in magic rituals by the contestants to achieve victory. The final part of our day exploring Athens was a walking tour of the neighbouring Plaka area at the base of the Acropolis; it is the oldest part of Athens with narrow cobbled lanes, taverns, cafes and quaint shops.
The next morning, we said goodbye to Athens and headed to the Argolis region of the Peloponnese part of Greece. The first highlight was stopping at the 75 foot wide Corinth Canal. In the past, large ships would be unloaded on one shore of this man-made isthmus, dragged the 4 miles along the canal using the paved slipway, and then refloated. It was an iconic sight and made me think of the film "Jason and the Argonauts"!!!
After an hour passing mountains (many with castles on the top) of olive trees, and across plains with vines and fruit trees, we reached Epidaurus - famed for its temple and theatre. The history of this place was mind-blowing! This (ampi)theatre constructed in the 6th century BC is the only circular theatre to have survived and is now still exactly as it was all those years ago.
The theatre was built with near perfect acoustics, which allows for people seated at the top of the theatre to perfectly hear sounds from the stage. This round stone circle is where actors of the past (and even present day ones - as it is still used) stood; and as our guide showed us - even a whisper could be heard anywhere in the theatre.
Even 2600 years ago the people of Epidaurus understood the need for well-being; building a spa resort here - they knew that bathing, sport, music and theatre were essential for the mind and body.......amazing!
As well as a sports field, there was a gymnasium, a hospital, bathing areas and accommodation blocks. This fantastic place is still being excavated - and there are many more ruins of temples etc than I have shown here. Underneath the circular temple, it is thought there was a labyrinth full of snakes - which were highly regarded and thought to have had healing powers.
It is also here that modern theories about medicine were developed; and there’s an excellent museum dedicated to this.
Our final stop for the day was Nafplio, arguably the most elegant seaside resort on the Greek mainland - and was a beautiful place it is. Many years ago it was the first capital of liberated Greece; and you can see Venetian buildings, next to Ottoman buildings and Catholic Churches.
Wandering along the marble pavements, past the harbour full of millionaire's yachts; I found a quiet lido before heading back into the town to marvel at its diverse architecture.
High above the town is the imposing Palamidi fortress - making you wonder how its protective wall was ever made in such a procarious position.
The following morning we visited the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Mycenae, one of the most important archaeological sites in Greece. According to mythology, this was the town of the legendary King Agamemnon, the leader of the Greeks during the Trojan War; and was also the setting of many myths in Ancient Greece, especially the tragedies connected to Agamemnon and his family.
This fortress built between 2 hills on the Plain of Argos was reputedly founded by Perseus, son of Zeus; who employed mythical giant Cyclopes from Asia to build the massive walls and buildings. The Lion Gate (above) was built in the 14th Century BC and originally contained coloured gems and stones.
This was a fascinating place, in the middle of nowhere - which added to its charm. The next morning's journey was again through a mountainous area, fertile crop growing plains called Arcadia and passing the town of Argos (named after the giant with 100 eyes). We arrived at Olympia, the religious sanctuary and athletic centre where the modern day games began.
We passed the area known as the gymnasium - where Atlas is said to have practised.
Olympia contains the remains of one of the Seven Ancient wonders of the world, the Temple of Zeus (470 - 457 BC) - above, which originally contained a colossal gold and ivory statue of Zeus - approximately 12 metres high. The Labours of Hercules were depicted on the 12 interior slabs. Unfortunately though most of this was destroyed in earthquakes in 522 and 551 AD.
The building above was originally the famous sculpture Pheidias' workshop; but later in Roman times it was a church. You can see in the walls when different civilisations have added their own building skills.
The Philippeion above built from limestone and marble in the 4th Century BC - was commissioned by either Philip or his son Alexander the Great (whose mother was Olympus who went on to murder her husband Philip).
Through this amazing arch, you get your first glance of the original Olympic Stadium that was first used in 776 BC. The Event was held there every 4 years, like today; but then it was held in a different place on an annual rotation system. Only men were allowed to compete in the games (naked) or to be spectators - who would sit on the banks surrounding the arena.
The original starting line is still there, and many tourists like to have a sprint on the original racetrack; other events included horse chariot racing (where the owners won not the competitors), wrestling , discus and javelin throwing.
Hera's Temple is one of the oldest structures in Greece (7th Century BC); it was where the winners received their prizes - there was no 2nd or 3rd prizes. There is also a museum at Olympia containing a plethora of artefacts some dating back 4000 years - and more recent Roman articles.
As well as beautifully preserved statues, I found the bronze works that have been uncovered there fascinating - to say that they were from the 8th Century BC they are so well made. The Griffins and small horses were my favourites.
There is also a special statue (headless) supposedly of the distinguished emperor Marcus Aurelius.
As well as various other statues of Gods etc.
The following morning we left the area known as the Peloponnese, and drove over the Rion-Antrion Bridge - one of the longest bridges in Greece. It traversed the Gulf of Corinth and saved many hours of travelling - if we had, had to follow the coastline.
The winding coastline was very interesting, passing fishing villages, white shingle beaches, calm, turquoise waters with fish farms and mines embedded into the rocks.
We had a brief stop at the picturesque fishing village of Nafpaktos, I wish it could have been longer - as it was one if the loveliest harbours I have seen. The white houses with red roofs, and traditional cafes against the backdrop of the walled harbour wall and vibrant sea were just full of charm and character.
Our journey ended at the town of Delphi, which is nestled high up in the mountains - the view from my balcony was breathtaking and really made me feel as if I was somewhere special.
I had some time to wander around this most beautiful place and take in what for me was "traditional Greece".
The next morning we visited one of Greece’s most iconic sites, Delphi, which dates to the era of Apollo and Zeus and the fabled oracle. Our guide took us around the magnificent archaeological site, pointing out temples, treasury houses, the theatre and special markings on the ruins of one of the ancient world’s most holy sites.
Delphi is another UNESCO site, containing ruins of an ancient religious complex. Zeus let 2 eagles fly in opposite directions and Delphi was where they met - supposedly the centre of the World.
The Oracle of Apollo (God of justice, music, harmony and light) inside the Temple of Apollo, was supposedly his dwelling place from 8th Century BC. People would visit the Oracle to consult the Gods but the Romans destroyed the Oracle when they arrived.
Here is what the temple would have looked like in all its glory - 15 marble columns on each of its long sides. There is a poignant inscription at the entrance to the temple, even though it is now a ruin that translates to "Know thyself - nothing in excess".
The museum at Delphi is renowned for containing a wide variety of ancient friezes, statues and artefacts, it also houses the 5th Century bronze sculpture of a Charioteer.
These gold parts were riveted on the wooden body of a statue possibly depicting Apollo and is described as a masterpiece of 6th Century BC Ionian art.
Greece has had such a diverse history, from the Mycenaen and Minoan cultures in the Bronze Age, then the Romans, the Byzantine people, Ottomans, Venetians, Franks - only becoming a modern state in 1830 - its history is immense. It has given us scholars such as Sophocles, Aristotle, Socrates and Plato. I found it hard to comprehend their civilisations 2-3000 years ago; when many in Europe were still living in wooden houses - they were having Spa days and discussing the most complex theories. This trip has really awoken my passion of history and I hope you enjoyed reading about my time visiting Ancient Greece.
Thank you for taking time to follow my adventures,
Lynne
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