Lincoln
The first known settlement in Lincoln dates as far back as
the 1st century BC, and was close to the Brayford Waterfront area, which gave
the place its original name of Lindon: “Lindo”- meaning “The Pool”. Later the Romans built a wooden fortress at the top of the
hill and renamed it Lindum Colonia; but after they left, the city fell into decline - until the arrival of the Vikings in the 9th century when it became a small trading town. In 1068 William the Conqueror invaded
the city and ordered the building of Lincoln Castle, and the Cathedral on the
site of the former Roman settlement. So with all this history, present day Lincoln has much to offer.
I started my day at the highest point, at the majestic Lincoln Cathedral - which can been seen from miles around in every direction. Lincoln Cathedral, built from local limestone, was consecrated
in 1092, being the tallest building in the world in 1311 when its spire on the
central tower was raised. It held that title until the spire collapsed
during a storm in 1549 which has never been replaced. The city was of great importance at this time, being
the capital of England's largest diocese - stretching from the River Humber
in the north to the Thames in the south.
Throughout the years the Cathedral has been subject to many serious events that have destroyed some of its original features, it has been ravaged by fire, damaged by earthquakes and storms and of course been the casualty in various conflicts and wars.
Due to it being rebuilt and renovated so often, it contains several different construction-types - Norman, Early English, Decorated, Perpendicular and Modern. It is breath-taking structure with huge columns and arches - with so much intricate detail wherever you look.
The Choir Screen was built in the 13th Century, a place specifically designed for the clergy, their assistants and the choir - the wooden carvings here are exquisite.
There are some wonderful stained glass windows; the one above is known as the Dean's Eye and the glass in it was first installed in approximately 1220 - and tells the tale of the last judgement.
The great circular rose window below is known as the Bishop's Eye (that watches over the city) - another amazing window that contains fragments of medieval glass.
There are many interesting tombs to be found, some more macabre that others and close to the East Window, at the top of the pillar closest to the head shrine of St Hugh - look out for the Lincolnshire Imp. Legend says he caused so much havoc - that an angel turned him into stone!
On the north side of the Cathedral you will find the 13th century Cloisters with their wooden vault ceilings - and more exquisite stone arches.
The Cathedral is free to visit on Sundays, but check for times of services. For more information on this wonderful Gothic building - https://lincolncathedral.com/
This area at the top of the hill is known as The Cultural District and is such an interesting place to wander around; if you come out of the Cathedral and walk through the archway, you will come to Lincoln's other magnificent tourist attraction - The Castle.
In 1068 William the Conqueror ordered the building of this castle, on a site occupied since Roman times; followed by the Cathedral only 4 year later - both within the city's Roman walls. For almost one thousand years these magnificent buildings have stood proud on top of the hill overlooking the surrounding area - you can see them from miles away as you approach Lincoln.
The Castle's Medieval wall walk is a marvellous experience; you get up on to the wall by a spiral staircase or lift and can walk the whole 1/3 of a mile circumference of the walls; just beware there are many steps, uneven and narrow parts and hardly any areas to rest. But on the plus side, you will be rewarded with some of the best views of the Cathedral, the city below and for miles across the surrounding countryside.
When King John agreed to the barons’ demands for peace at Runnymede in 1215, the Magna Carta was signed and copies of this charter were sealed and distributed to sheriffs, cathedrals, and important religious houses throughout the country. The Castle is home to Lincoln's Magna Carta, which is one of only four original copies - a document that shaped society as we know it today.
It is currently displayed in the specially designed David P J Ross Vault, built into the walls of the Castle. Here you can see the original document and learn about the 25 Barons elected to ensure the terms of the charter were adhered to.
Also inside the Castle walls is the Victorian prison, which gives an insight into crime and punishment several hundred years ago. Lincoln Castle's Prison was built in 1788 and today there are friendly guides dressed in authentic costumes ready to tell tales of past felons and answer any questions.
There are 3 floors of restored prison cells, over a male and female wing, which offer you the chance to learn about the justice system of Victorian England. As well as guides dressed as prisoners and guards, there are interactive touch-screens that show videos and give information about people that spent their life in this prison
This is the Victorian prison chapel which was the first of its kind; it was designed to keep prisoners segregated from each other - a different way of treating prisoners - total isolation all the time, encouraging them to reflect, repent and reform. It sent some of them into a state of depression and subsequent madness!
This separate system of solitary confinement was enforced until 1878 and can be seen by the single cells and the unique separate system chapel - the only original one of its kind left in the world. The castle was founded as a seat of justice, and the modern Crown Court still operates there. It is a fascinating place to visit and I can highly recommend spending at least half a day there.
https://www.lincolncastle.com/
Lincoln is renowned for its Roman history, there are even trails to follow to see where original Roman sites were; and one of the surviving jewels of Roman Britain is Newport Arch - the oldest arch in the Britain and unbelievably it still has traffic running through it.
The arch was the north gate of the Upper Roman City of Lindum Colonia in the 3rd-century and part of the connecting wall survives in the nearby Newport Cottage.
This area between the castle and the cathedral is a fascinating place with so much to see; this is where you will find the Tourist Information Shop inside this beautiful Tudor Building.
From here, you can walk down the famous "Steep Hill" which has been voted "Britain's Great Street"; in Roman times it was part of Ermine Street - which was the main road between London and York - so you can imagine how much history it contains.
It is lined with unusual, colourful shops, the sort you don't often see anywhere else. In medieval times it was home to many markets but today there is only one - but it is well worth having a look as it sells such a variety of different things.
It is better to walk down than try to come up, it really is that steep; and halfway you will find the Mayors seat (a bench to have a rest on); there was an ornate carved seat here in the 17th century but that is in the Guildhall now.
The Medieval Bishops Palace, close to Temple Gardens can be found just off Steep Hill, and The Jews House - which is one of the oldest town houses in Europe. The Jews Court is next door and is home to the Society for Lincolnshire History and Archaeology with a well stocked book shop.
The lovely Tudor Guildhall building is situated above the Stonebow arch, which replaced the Roman southern gateway into the city. The Guildhall was finished in 1520 and today is the official home of the Mayor of Lincoln; containing numerous pieces of regalia, including the sword of Richard II, and the Mayor’s Chains of Office and posy ring.
Look for carved statues and grotesques - carved heads of mythical beasts and strange creatures on the outside walls. The 'mote' bell, struck in 1371, is still used to signal council meetings.
The modern town flourished at the bottom of the hill, especially with the use of the waterways and subsequent arrival of the railway and Lincoln expanded in several areas of industry and manufacture. The new part of Lincoln city is an interesting mix of old and modern; with new shops inside medieval buildings or ones that have been made to look old and in keeping with the character of the city.
As well as many high street shops and department stores, there are numerous places to eat and drink - some more unusual than others; I did find a fabulous cafe called Madam Waffle which I can highly recommend.
In this lower part of Lincoln, there are more buildings to admire, there is even a chapel that has been turned into a delightful cafe.
Lincoln's industrial waterfront is at the centre of the modern shopping area; and to walk along the canal is a delightful escape from the crowds. The Empowerment Sculpture was erected in 2002 and was designed to echo the shape of turbine blades.
Back at the Brayford Waterfront area, which is a world away from the other sections of Lincoln (old and new); you can take a leisurely boat trip along the Fossdyke Navigation - the oldest Roman canal in the country. This is a chance to sit down and enjoy the scenery and wildlife away from the crowds.
Museum of Lincolnshire Life - a free museum in former barracks containing all aspects of life in this area from 1750. https://www.lincolnshire.gov.uk/history-and-heritage/museum-of-lincolnshire-life/
Ellis Mill - built in 1798, it is still a working flour mill - open for tourists to visit. https://www.lincolnshire.gov.uk/ellis-mill/46233.article
The Usher Gallery - containing ats and horology https://artuk.org/visit/venues/usher-gallery-3366#
Harding House Gallery - a 16th century timber framed house where artists can exhibit their work. https://www.hardinghousegallery.co.uk/
Greyfriars Exhibition Centre - the oldest surviving friary building in England dating back to 13th century not occasionally has exhibitions. https://www.visitlincoln.com/things-to-do/greyfriars
I hope you have enjoyed my day exploring Lincoln. You definitely need more that one day in this fascinating city - I know that I will be going back to see more of it!
Thank you for taking time to follow my adventures,
Lynne
These are my other blogs :-
