India
Arriving
at Delhi early morning, it was all systems go - as I only had one day to see
the best parts of this city. Delhi was as manic as I expected; people, animals,
and tuk-tuks everywhere – but surprisingly many of the roads were lined with manicured
trees although there were people living and sleeping along the edges of some
roads.
First,
I went to Old Delhi, the main city until the 1500’s – to The Jama Masjid, one
of the largest mosques in India, built in 17th century from marble,
sandstone and limestone, by the Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan. To enter the deep
red complex, I had to put on a long gown (even though I was quite covered up)
and remove my sandals.
It
consisted of a huge square with an open corridor on 3 sides, and in front of
the main building is a square pond where crowds of worshippers had gathered. The
main building is the prayer hall fronted by intricate arches, with 3 marble
domes on top and 2 minarets at each end. The floor of the mosque has 899 black
borders on white marble - that resemble prayer mats for worshippers.
Surrounded
by this complex is the old city, with its narrow lanes, bustling bazaars,
terrifying motorbikes, spaghetti-like electricity cables and the occasional protected
tree growing through a building. This area was more akin to the Delhi I was
expecting; although exotic, it was chaotic, noisy, and seedy – not somewhere I
was particularly comfortable.
The
next stop was Raj Ghat – a pristine memorial garden dedicated to Mahatma Gandhi;
with a black marble platform marking the spot of his cremation, (the day after
his assassination on 30 January 1948) that has an eternal flame burning.
Close
to here was Humayun’s Tomb, a fabulous set of buildings commissioned by the
Queen when her husband died in the mid 1500’s, and each quadrangle is
identical, with waterways running into symmetrical ponds, the same size trees
on every corner and perfectly cut lawns throughout.
The
colourful central building with its mogul arches and domes is a wonderful sight
– the red/orange stone with contrasting white marble is one of the most
beautiful buildings I have seen – and a total surprise.
You
have to climb steep stairs to reach the upper platform area, and inside the
rooms are empty except the one with the King and Queen’s coffins (although the
original ones are 10 feet below). The sunlight shining through the latticework
of the archways in this chamber was quite mystifying.
There
is another tomb in the grounds – Isa Khan’s Garden Tomb which is worth a look.
You could spend a lot of time here, admiring the buildings and enjoying the
gardens – for me, it was the highlight of my day. Driving back through the
city, we passed the spectacular Parliament buildings, an area which our guide
said resembled something between the city of Paris and the Whitehouse in
America.
The
final stop of the day was at Gurudwara Bangla Sahib - a prominent Sikh temple,
where I had to wear an orange bandana and remove my sandals again.
The
first section was the Gurdwara kitchen, were volunteers prepare food for up to
6000 people every day – regardless of their religion or race.
The
main temple is pure white with a huge central golden dome, smaller domes at
each side, and more intricate arches. Once inside no-one is allowed to take
photographs – it was full of people worshipping. Outside there was another
surprise – the “Sarovar” – a huge square pool surrounded by numerous arches;
people can bathe in the waters to cleanse themselves.
It was a beautiful end to a whirlwind of a day in Delhi, which I had enjoyed much more than I expected to.
The
following morning, I headed south to Agra – sharing the roads with donkeys,
horses and carts, dogs, camels and cows - that have such an important status in
this country. The first place I visited was one of the finest Mughal forts in
India, Agra’s Red Fort, built in the 16th century from red sandstone
and marble on the bank of the Yamuna River - on the orders of Emperor Akbar. His
grandson Shah Jahan, (who built the Taj Mahal) instructed that extensions were
made using his favourite building material – white marble. The
fort was initially a military establishment, but Shah Jahan transformed it into
a palace, which later became his prison for 8 years - after his son seized power.
The fort’s impressive walls are more than 20m high and really do look
impregnable. Inside, it is like a city within a city, with various colourful
courtyards and numerous buildings. The Amar Singh Gate to the south, is the only
entrance point and climbing the pathway, I could see the dogleg design, which was
meant to confuse attackers who had made it past the first line of defence – the
crocodile-infested moat.
I soon
arrived at a gateway and could see over the immaculately cut lawn, to the huge
red-sandstone Jehangir’s Palace. In front of this is a giant bowl carved out of
a single block of stone, which many years ago, was used for bathing.
With tall stone pillars and arches, this fort is a mixture of Indian and Asian architectural styles; and the large courtyard has a garden that has been brought back to life in recent years.
Here
is the impressive Hall of Public Audience with its marble columns and carved
arches. There are also bright dazzling marble courtyards offering spectacular
views of the Taj Mahal - which can be seen through the ornate marble grills.
In one courtyard is the Mirror Palace, with its walls and ceiling inlaid with thousands of tiny pieces of glass that have a reflective mirror quality and glisten inside the building – but this was closed to the public when I was there.
The
Mathamman Burj is a white-marble octagonal tower, surrounded by sculptured
arches and decorated with semi-precious stones. This was where Shah Jahan was
imprisoned for 8 years until his death in 1666, and from here he could gaze over
the river at the Taj Mahal (the tomb of his wife); and when he died, his body
was taken there by boat.
It
was a very interesting place to visit and set the scene for one of the highlights
of my trip – visiting one of the New Wonders of the World, The UNESCO - Taj
Mahal. This ivory-white marble mausoleum, described as possibly the world’s
greatest monument, was commissioned in his grief, in 1632 by the Emperor, Shah
Jahan, to house the tomb of his favourite wife, a Persian Princess called Mumtaz
Mahal - who died giving birth to their 14th child. The Mughal tomb (whose basic
elements are Persian) is the centrepiece of a huge complex set in immaculately
kept formal gardens.
Security is very strict here, no food or sweets are
allowed (your bags are checked), you must have your body searched and you can
only take a camera or mobile phone – no videos. To keep pollution to a minimum,
traffic is not allowed near the complex and tourists must either walk (about 15
minutes) from the parking areas or catch a special electric bus. After walking
through a lawned courtyard, I came to one of the 4 Gates – they are identical -
as in all mogul complexes. The Gate was such an ornate building, and as I went
through it – the view of the Taj Mahal itself appeared - as magnificent as I
had expected.
There
were crowds of tourists clambering to take photographs of the first view of
this iconic landmark; but as soon as I was through this gateway, the crowds
dispersed and there was ample space to enjoy what I had come to see.
The 300-metre square garden has raised pathways dividing each quarter into sunken flowerbeds, and avenues of trees - symbolising the 4 flowing rivers that are in every Paradise garden. It felt so serene and calm – a safe place to wander and enjoy the exceptional, unparalleled surroundings.
Halfway
between the gateway and the tomb itself, is a long pool positioned precisely to
reflect the image of the mausoleum; although from the opposite end – it also reflects
the image of the gateway.
Once
I reached the mausoleum itself, I had to put covers over my shoes to protect
the marble. Wandering around this incredible structure, it was hard to believe
that something so ornate and perfect, could have been built so long ago – and
that it is still in such immaculate condition today. When you get close you can
appreciate the exquisite detailing of the carvings, hundreds of thousands of pieces
of mosaic semi-precious gemstones of yellow marble, jasper and jade – all
highly polished, that decorate the entire building - the finest in Mughal
architecture.
White inlays are used in sandstone buildings, and dark or black
inlays on the white marble ones. The most spectacular feature is the 35-metre-high
marble onion-shaped dome that surmounts the tomb - with its top decorated with
a lotus design. The main inner chamber is octagonal and contains the false
sarcophagi of Mumtaz Mahal and Shah Jahan; their actual graves are at a lower
level. The interior walls are about 25 metres high, with upper arches that form
balconies or viewing areas. Every surface has such delicate detail, with more semi-precious
stones forming twining vines, fruits and flowers. Once inside this section,
there are guards checking that everyone is being respectful, being quiet, not
attempting to take photographs and keeping moving in one direction. There is
nothing else inside the building and you just follow the walkway around,
passing marble latticed arched windows and leaving by a different door.
I
was lucky enough to see this amazing place in the late afternoon, and although
there wasn’t a breath taking sunset; as the light faded – the colours
intensified. The reflective pools turned vivid turquoise - contrasting
spectacularly against the marble mausoleum – I was very happy to be able to
capture this picturesque setting.
Returning
the following morning, although there wasn’t a colourful sunrise, the
atmosphere and quietness of the area more than made up for it. There were not
crowds like the previous afternoon (so I managed to sit on the famous “Diana’s
bench”), and the mist that shrouded the dome changed from a ghostly white to a
hazy blush pink.
I left feeling quite satisfied that I had seen the magnificent Taj Mahal in all of its glory.
Leaving
Agra was an adventure in itself, with more animals on the roads than vehicles
and it wasn’t long before we stopped at Fatehpur Sikri – a deserted ancient
capital built in the 16th century. Due to scarcity of water, the place was abandoned after only 12 years and the entire city, with its deep red sandstone palaces, temples and buildings left almost intact. From the carpark, you have to take the “Tourist bus” up to the complex – this was an experience!
Inside
the complex was another Hall of Private Audience (different to other ones),
where the king would sit above and look down at his subjects; the Queen’s
chambers and many other buildings with faint remnants of paintings on the walls
and ceilings. Some of the five-storey buildings, with their pillars and arches
were very impressive even though they were completely open to the elements. I
particularly liked that the King’s bed was 10-foot-high, and when he went to
sleep, the ladder which enabled him to get into his bed, was removed – as a
safeguard against attackers!
Only
5 minutes’ walk away is the magnificent 54-metre-high gateway, Buland Darwaza, the
entrance to Jama Masjid mosque. Hawkers were particularly troublesome in this
area, and they didn’t even leave me alone even when inside the complex; many
guides don’t bring tourists here for that reason – which is such a pity. The
deep crimson walls and multi storey buildings here are stunning; and in
complete contrast, in the middle of the courtyard is the white marble tomb of
Salim Chishti – a Holy man who supposedly helped the King get a successor when
most of his babies had died. The entire complex is a mix of Hindu and Mughal
styles – the numerous domes, arches, and different colours were more impressive
than the Palace complex next door, and it is highly worth a visit.
My
journey continued, but now along some of the worst roads of the trip; arriving
at Ranthambore National Park early evening. This National Park is one of the
biggest and most renowned parks in Rajasthan - a former hunting ground of the
Maharajas. Today it is a major wildlife tourist attraction spread over 392 square
km, and one of the best locations to see Bengal tigers in their natural habitat.
Ranthambore was declared one of the Project Tiger reserves in 1973, becoming a
national park in 1980. After a good night’s sleep, I was collected from the
resort at 5:30am, in an open topped gypsy vehicle - arriving at the gate in
plenty of time. You need to take your passport with you, as there are rigorous checks
on anyone entering the park, which is divided into zones and apparently you are
allocated your zone “by your boarding pass” – and you cannot deviate from this.
So,
my first Game Drive was in Zone 2, which saw us driving along the lower edge of
an escarpment, crossing many streams with water gushing over huge boulders – it
was a rocky ride! It was so atmospheric though; daylight was just emerging;
mist gently rising and the sounds of the jungle waking up – it was the most
incredible time. Towering 700 metres above was the 10th century
Ranthambore fortress, where locals were heading to, as it was a special
festival day in their religion.
We
went through varying sorts of terrain, from dense rain forest to open
grasslands and wetlands, and I managed to see a wide variety of wildlife;
buffalo, antelope, several types of deer, wild boar, monkeys and colourful
birds. Although I wasn’t lucky enough to spot the elusive tiger on my first 4-hour
game drive, I had seen so much - and felt as though I was in my very own
Wildlife programme!
After
a few hours rest and some lunch, it was time to go out again – this time to Zone
3 which was completely different. We passed the most enormous banyan trees,
with monkeys shouting all the time – the noises of the forest were so intense.
The
guide kept stopping and listening for “The early warning call”, a signal that
danger - a tiger, was close. Whenever a certain type of noise was heard, we
would speed off in that direction and then sit quietly waiting – but there was
no sign of any tigers.
We
travelled around a couple of lakes that were full of crocodiles and saw more
deer in the grasslands; but then a storm arrived, and we had to sit still until
the torrential rain had passed.
The
guide was recommending we return back to the resort, as the animals wouldn’t be
about in this weather; when suddenly another gypsy vehicle came towards us with
its passengers shouting excitedly. There was a tiger heading our way! The
excitement was immense. Our driver followed the other vehicle and parked up on
a rocky bank looking down onto a stream below – we had been told earlier that
60% of tiger spotting’s are by water – so this could be it. We waited and
watched; not knowing from where the tiger might appear. And then, there she was
– a magnificent female Bengal tiger.
She casually came out from within some bushes, walking slowly down to the stream for a drink – it was a breath-taking moment.
And just when I didn’t think it
could get any better, she came up the bank (to where we were parked) and walked
right past our vehicle – only about 6 feet away.
No-one
dare move or make a sound, and I don’t think I took a breath for several
minutes. It was one of the most remarkable moments of my life. But it wasn’t
over; not perplexed by us at all, she went and sat down on a rock not far away
– just so we could take some more photos!
This tiger was called Arrowhead and has 2 cubs which are just over 2 years old – we couldn’t help wondering where they were! But I was so happy with what I had just experienced – it certainly was “Sweet tiger dreams” in bed that night.
Another
early start next morning, but I was confident I knew what to look for now, and
what the Early warning signal sounded like - as we headed into one of the more
remote zones. The previous days storm had caused most of the roads to become
almost impassable and it wasn’t the most comfortable journey. But the sun came
out and I enjoyed the scenery; the lakes abundant with water lilies or lotus
flowers, seeing the forest animals that were becoming commonplace now and
listening for that special call in the wild. After driving around for a few
hours, I felt happy that I had had my “Tiger experience” yesterday and would
have been happy to call it a day – but our guide heard something. And before we
knew it, our driver took off in the direction of the calling; but halfway up a
hill he suddenly stopped. At the crest of this hill – there was the silhouette
of a tiger (the shot I wasn’t quick enough to get). What a sight it was – just
for that moment.
The
tiger quickly moved into the undergrowth, spooked by our presence. We later
learned he was only a youngster, although you would have never guessed by the
size of him. He re-appeared a few more times, as if teasing us or probably just
checking us out. He was a magnificent animal with such bright markings - especially
in the sunshine; although within seconds of going into the undergrowth – he
became invisible.
The
park had been closed for 3 months and only re-opened 2 days previously; so, he
was allowed to be wary. I could not believe how lucky I was to have seen tigers
twice – Royal Bengal Tigers, the national animal of India.
Ranthambore is an amazing place, dedicated to the preservation and protection of these majestic creatures; which due to the commitment of its staff, is seeing the tiger population increasing at last.
After
all that excitement, it was time to head off to Rajasthan’s state capital,
Jaipur – “The Pink City”. What a colourful city it is – although I would want
to call it The Orange and Pink City – as it is more of an orange colour! Just
driving through to my hotel was spectacular; the coloured archways or gates
leading into the Old City were exquisite – the colours, the carvings and the
size of them. Next morning, I headed off early again, only having one full day
here and determined to see as much of it as possible.
The
first stop was just a photo opportunity on one of the main roads in the city - the Hawa Mahal - Palace of Winds, constructed
in 1799 as part of the women’s section of the City Palace. The distinctive
salmon pink lace-like façade that is seen from the street is an enormous
screened porch, only one room deep in most places. The 953 windows were
designed to allow the ladies of the royal court to watch the activities in the
streets below, behind their delicate latticework – without being seen. What a
beautiful building this is, made even more so by the fact that it stands amidst
chaotic, colourful local shops.
We
continued on to the UNESCO Amber Fort, situated on a hill side, overlooking Maota
lake; and when we stopped to take a photo – there was a snake charmer by the
roadside.
Amber
was the ancient capital of Jaipur state, and the palace and fort, with its
wonderful examples of Rajput architecture, used to be home to the Rajput
Maharajas. We drove up the steep cobbled hill towards the Fort and could see
the gate and large sandstone ramparts.
On
certain days, elephants carry tourists up this road – that must be quite an
experience; but it wasn’t happening the day I was there. Once
we arrived at the top, there were huge crowds of people all admiring the view;
the Fort and its walls - the Great Wall of Jaipur, disappeared into the distance.
The part I thought was the Fort, was actually the Palace, (the two are
connected by an underground passage which was an escape route in times of war)
which is laid out on separate levels, each with its own courtyard.
I
entered through the magnificent Lion Gate which is a completely different
selection of colours than any I had seen previously - intricate mosaics of
cream, beige, brown and greens. As in many of the other complexes I had seen,
there was the "Hall of Public Audience" and "Hall of Private
Audience" as well as more unusual places, such as Turkish Baths, domed
pavilions, marble lattice openings and balconies overlooking the gardens or the
distant mountains.
But for me, the most fabulous part was the Mirror Palace; although you can’t go inside, the views from outside were breath-taking. It was one of those places where you want to keep taking more photos; the millions of mirrored glass pieces that make up the walls, the arches, the ceiling, and the alcoves were absolutely stunning.
We
left the Fort and headed back towards the city, stopping at Lake Sagar to admire
Jal Mantar (The Water Palace), which appears to be floating on top of the calm Lake.
This isn’t somewhere you can visit – just enjoy the view from across the water.
Next
was the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Jantar Mantar, a Royal Observatory built in
1728, for the observation of astronomical positions of the stars and planets. It
is the largest and best-preserved observatory – definitely one of a kind.
The
complex contains 19 gigantic stone and marble shapes – all astronomical instruments
designed to tell the position of the Sun, Moon and other planets; and can measure
the time of day to within half of a second.
There
are several sundials – including the World’s largest, in different shapes and
sizes – although all are nothing like you imagine – they are colossal.
The
complex is surrounded by a tall wall, and in between the “instruments” are neat
lawned areas – it was a fascinating place to see, far more interesting than I
expected.
Across
the road from here is the City Palace and Museum, which is still home to the
Jaipur Royal family. The first museum contains a collection of textiles, clothing,
and art; whereas the Armoury museum has so many unusual, mainly lethal, old
weapons – but it is forbidden to take photos inside.
Through
another gate, with marble elephants standing guard, I came to the most fabulous
Hall of Private Audience I had seen – Diwan-e-Khas.
This
open sided hall is a mixture of pink, orange and white surrounded by carved
arches; and within these are 2 gigantic silver urns. A hundred years ago, the
Maharaja took them on his visit to Europe, filled with 9000 litres of water
from the Ganges – they are the biggest silver containers in the world.
There
were more interesting courtyards to see in this area of the palace, one which
contained the most unusual doorways - 4 different ones. My favourite one was
the peacock doorway, which had peacocks emerging from the wall – it was
incredible – something else that was incredible!
The
final section of this palace was the Durbar Hall with its vaulted ceiling,
pillars, arches, mosaics, paintings on every wall, crystal chandeliers and the
pinnacle – its 2 thrones. This stately room has been used to hold receptions
for foreign dignitaries and to entertain royalty.
Walking back through the old city, I experienced the more
desperate side of the city and the people that lived there; but on the whole
Jaipur was the cleanest place I had seen on my tour. There weren’t that many
beggars – except at one set of traffic lights when a toothless old hag appeared
at our car window demanding money – and nearly scared me to death! I had been
worried about coming to India, but it had been nothing like I had expected – I had
loved every part of my trip. These places that make up India’s famous Golden
Triangle are an ideal place to start a love affair of India – I can now understand
how people say that you will be back to see more of this fascinating country.
Thank you for taking time to follow my adventures,
Lynne
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