Lake Bled
After a relatively short flight
to Ljubljana, and a 40-minute transfer, I arrived at the town of Bled. As much
as I felt disappointed that it was raining – it did make everywhere look eerily
atmospheric.
Bled is set amidst the Julian Alps in northwest Slovenia, a picture-postcard resort; famous for its fairy-tale castle with fabulous panoramic views, magnificent blue lake and stunning mountain surroundings. My reason for visiting Bled was to capture some of this beauty and of its lake - with the iconic Bled Island standing proud.
Not wanting to waste any time, I headed out in the rain, determined to get my bearings and be ready for the morning. My hotel wasn’t far from the main town centre, although that can hardly be described as such; there are a few hotels, a tourist information centre, and several quaint shops overlooking a colourful park at the bottom of the lake.
Outside the shops I saw a giant model beaver playing an accordion, colourful gnomes, traditional dresses, and there is a wood maker’s shop (who makes all sorts of items including wooden spectacles). Opposite this row of shops is the main centre – a circular area with cafes, restaurants and ice cream shops. After having something to eat, I walked back along the edge of the lake to my hotel. It was dark now and the Castle, high up on the cliff above looked so dramatic glowing in the night sky. The light on the cliff face resembled a face – I don’t know if that is intentional or not – but it did look really good.
Next morning, although the rain had stopped, it was cold, and mist was rising from the water.
I joined the lakeside path and headed towards the Plenta boats that were leaving for the island; none of these boats have an engine - as motor boats have been banned on the lake. Instead, these traditional Pletna boats, which have been taking visitors to the island for centuries, have the run of the lake and take people across to the island.
Weddings are a regular occurrence at the iconic Church of Maria of the Lake, and grooms carry their brides up the 99 steps to the church before ringing the “Wishing bell” for good luck. I arrived at a Plenta boat, and once it was full, the standing oarsman set off rowing towards the island. It is 14 Euros for a trip in one of these boats, which is rather expensive, especially as you only have 30 minutes of free time on the island – but it is one of those things you just have to do whilst in Bled. Once on the island, I walked up the stone stairway that dates from 1655, leading up to the church which has been a place of pilgrimage since that time.
Next to the church is a 171 ft tower with pendulum bells ringing, although the 16th century bell in the church is said to have come from the pope himself. Apparently he gave it to the church after the original bell, sent to the island by an inconsolable widow, in remembrance of her late husband, ended up sinking to the bottom of the lake in a storm. Legend has it that if you ring the Church bell, it will make your wishes come true; and many visitors were happy to pay an extra 6 Euros to go into the church and ring the bell.
There is also a gift shop and café on the island; as well as a pathway around the water’s edge – but 30 minutes was hardly enough time to take it all in. Once back on the shore, I continued along to the far end of the lake – this is the closest that you are to the island; and was surprised by the number of fishermen sitting by the water’s edge.
I soon arrived at the area known as Camping Bled, there are a few places
to eat here, a small supermarket (which aren’t easy to find in Bled) and a
beach area.
This is a delightful place where people can sit on sun loungers or on the grass; and go swimming, paddling or snorkelling in the clear, calm water.
This is also one of the places where the white Tourist Train stops, an ideal way to view the lake if you can’t manage to walk all the way around, and it only costs 5 Euros.
Further along from the beach, is the Rowing Centre, a really popular sport in Slovenia. The lake is even marked out with lanes for the rowers and you can regularly see them practising and competing – with a grandstand for cheering spectators. Everyone is proud of their rowers and there is a huge board with photographs of their Olympic medalists.
Onwards from here, the lake has a completely different feel, whereas the first side is open and spacious, this side is lined with trees; especially pine trees giving it a picture-perfect view.
There are some beautiful coloured houses amongst the trees, with immaculate gardens, strange statues and often their own boat launching area. Then I came to a surprisingly different area – The Lido. This must be so busy and noisy throughout the summer months, with its pools, slides and play areas; you can also hire small boats and stand-up paddle boards.
From here there are a few cafes, restaurants and stalls in the park – many of which sell food and drink, as well as local crafts - depending the day of the week. It is a big, colourful park, taking up the entire bottom end of the lake – in
the shadow of the castle above. You must look out for drinking fountains to refill
your water bottles – they are very keen on recycling here.
The view from this end of the lake is different again, the island looks so far away with the huge mountain range towering behind. People sit in the park enjoying their surroundings perhaps with an ice cream or a piece of Blejska Kremsnita – Bled’s famous vanilla cream cake.
This is where you will find the Red Love Heart – that everyone wants a photo with! For families visiting the area and wanting more entertainment for their children, the Straza is ideal; it has a cable car with a ski slope in the winter, a toboggan in the summer, as well as an adventure park.
It is only a few minutes from the centre of Bled and boasts the best views of the lake below and the Karavanke mountains in the distance. After a few hours rest, I headed out again to Bled’s second must-do destination – The Castle. Following the signs from the park, I walked up the steep pathway, passing St Martins’ Church – another building that stands out as a tall white beacon, that can be seen from almost every corner of the lake.
I carried on up the hill, up hundreds of steps, twisting through the forest; the signs on the path said it would take 20 minutes and this is about right – if you don’t stop for a breather! Finally, I arrived at the entrance to the castle, with a medieval feel to it, a gothic arch and drawbridge above a moat – that is now filled with earth.
There is another short climb before reaching the ticket office; it costs 9 Euros and is open until 9pm or later every night. Once inside, this is like no other castle I have seen; not only does it have fairy tale architecture – its panoramic outlook is incredible. This 12th century castle has so much to keep you entertained, it is home to a museum, several galleries, a printing works, a cellar, where you can bottle and seal your own wine, a smithy, and a restaurant. In the summer months, you may even meet a Lord or watch an archery tournament.
In 1004 the German Emperor Henry II gave his
estate at Bled to Bishop Albuin of Brixen. At that time, only a Romanesque
tower, protected by walls, stood here. The first castle was built in
approximately 1011 but the Bishops never lived here, this is why the castle has
no luxurious rooms, as it was purely for defence. In the late Middle Ages more towers were built, and the fortifications improved. The distinctive feature of the castle is its double structure – the fortified centre was intended to be a safe haven for the lords, whilst the outer part was where the servants lived.
In 1511 the castle was heavily damaged by an earthquake; but restored and decorated with frescoes and stone-carved coats-of-arms. In the Upper Courtyard there is a museum which tells the history of the area around Bled – going back thousands of years – it is very modern and cleverly done.
Next door is the
Castle Forge, where you can buy all manner of ironwork – there are some
wonderful items, but they are very expensive.
The 16th century Gothic Castle Chapel in the upper courtyard has been renovated and painted with illusionist frescoes.
The
restaurant has got to be one of best places to enjoy the view of the beautiful
lake below, the picturesque Gorenjska region and of the surrounding peaks of
the Julian and Karavanke Alps.
I couldn’t help looking out of every window, each scene was breathtaking – it is worth visiting the castle just to experience the fabulous panoramic vistas. The castle itself had been a real surprise, with its red pointed roof tops, arches, quaint windows and gothic emblems – as well as its interesting historical rooms.
After seeing everything in both courtyards, it was time to head back down; the pathway back to reach the entrance is treacherous (steep and slippery) – it is definitely not disabled friendly! It was almost dark when I reached the bottom of the cliff and looking back – the castle glowed crimson up above, impressively protecting all below it. What an exhausting day, and I couldn’t wait for the next one.
Rising early, I had read that instead of doing an expensive trip to Vintgar Gorge, there was a bus there for 1 Euro which left at 08:20am. Happy with an early start, and hoping to avoid the crowds, this was definitely the best option for me. The bus arrived on time and drove for 20 minutes through small hamlets reminiscent of Switzerland or Austria. It costs 5 Euros to enter the gorge, and there are toilets and a small shop at the entrance. The Gorge was discovered in 1891 and 2 years later a walkway was built; and since its opening it has attracted numerous tourists wanting to experience Slovenia’s natural beauty. I walked along the path, following the turbulent river below; at every turn the water appeared to have changed.
One minute there were frothing rapids, gushing cascades, the next it was calm pools – always with towering vertical rocks above - amidst the plants and trees of the unspoilt forest. Precariously positioned wooden walkways are attached to the rocks, these cross the river in several places – there is hardly any room to pass anyone in certain sections, so I was very glad I had gone early.
Occasionally there
was hardly any head room, and many areas were slippery – so you really needed
to take extreme care. Almost at the end of the 1.6km gorge, I came to the
stone, single-arch, former Bohinj railway bridge that towers above the gorge –
a most impressive sight, with the mighty Sum waterfall below.
It wasn’t much further to the end of the trail, where there is a café and more toilets; from here you can carry on and take further hiking trails into the mountains. But I was happy to return the same way, as things always look different from the opposite direction.
The sun was rising above the mountains now and the temperature was warming up; although it had been a cold start, it had been a wonderful few hours in the heart of Slovenia’s countryside. The last part of the pathway was so congested, I would not like to have come any later than I did, it was far too busy.
I managed to catch the little bus back to Bled, got off near the camping area and walked back around the lake the opposite way to the day before – the sun was shining, and it looked even more spectacular than the previous day.
After some lunch I went to the Wellness Ziva (below the Rikli Balance Hotel) and for only 9 Euros, spent a few hours in their pools, hot spas, on the water flume and relaxing on their sunbeds – with the most amazing outlook over the lake.
It was a perfect time to go, hardly anyone about! It is open everyday until late evening and is an ideal place to relax after a day sightseeing or trekking. You can upgrade to include using the sauna or even book a treatment – but I was happy with a few hours relaxing and enjoying the most iconic view.
In the 19th century, Bled was visited by hydropathy enthusiasts, and soon after it was considered to be the most beautiful health resort in Austria-Hungary, with many pleasant bathing areas and thermal springs that can be found in the north-eastern part of the lake. After dinner, it was an early night, as I wanted to get up for the sunrise next morning.
It was just above freezing when I headed out, with a thick mist hovering above the lake – although this hadn’t stopped the fishermen under their blankets hoping for their first catch of the day. I was confident of my way now (although you can’t get lost on the path), and as the sky became lighter, there was still a dullness about, and I was certain that there wasn’t going to be the special sunrise I was hoping for.
I could see snow on the distant mountains, and the trees were glowing amber – a colour that wasn’t there the day before, so I tried not to be too disappointed. But when I reached the beach area, as if by magic, a ray of light began emerging between the peaks of 2 mountains opposite – I was so excited. Full of apprehension, I knew that I would only have a minute, if that, to capture something special. It wasn’t the dramatic red sky that I had been expecting – it was blue, with the blackness of the mountains reflecting on the water – it was amazing. Absolutely mesmerising!
I stayed there until the sun shone fully in the clear blue sky and carried on around the lake with a beaming smile on my face. Everything was so much brighter now, every time you walk around the lake it looks different.
It had definitely been worth getting up early for – my only regret was that I hadn’t managed to get up to the viewpoint but that was higher up in the forest and I hadn’t fancied that in the dark. But Bled had lived up to my expectations, I had loved every part of my visit and now I want to come back and experience it in the winter – maybe for a Christmas festival and those snowy shots!
Bled is set amidst the Julian Alps in northwest Slovenia, a picture-postcard resort; famous for its fairy-tale castle with fabulous panoramic views, magnificent blue lake and stunning mountain surroundings. My reason for visiting Bled was to capture some of this beauty and of its lake - with the iconic Bled Island standing proud.
Not wanting to waste any time, I headed out in the rain, determined to get my bearings and be ready for the morning. My hotel wasn’t far from the main town centre, although that can hardly be described as such; there are a few hotels, a tourist information centre, and several quaint shops overlooking a colourful park at the bottom of the lake.
Outside the shops I saw a giant model beaver playing an accordion, colourful gnomes, traditional dresses, and there is a wood maker’s shop (who makes all sorts of items including wooden spectacles). Opposite this row of shops is the main centre – a circular area with cafes, restaurants and ice cream shops. After having something to eat, I walked back along the edge of the lake to my hotel. It was dark now and the Castle, high up on the cliff above looked so dramatic glowing in the night sky. The light on the cliff face resembled a face – I don’t know if that is intentional or not – but it did look really good.
Next morning, although the rain had stopped, it was cold, and mist was rising from the water.
I joined the lakeside path and headed towards the Plenta boats that were leaving for the island; none of these boats have an engine - as motor boats have been banned on the lake. Instead, these traditional Pletna boats, which have been taking visitors to the island for centuries, have the run of the lake and take people across to the island.
Weddings are a regular occurrence at the iconic Church of Maria of the Lake, and grooms carry their brides up the 99 steps to the church before ringing the “Wishing bell” for good luck. I arrived at a Plenta boat, and once it was full, the standing oarsman set off rowing towards the island. It is 14 Euros for a trip in one of these boats, which is rather expensive, especially as you only have 30 minutes of free time on the island – but it is one of those things you just have to do whilst in Bled. Once on the island, I walked up the stone stairway that dates from 1655, leading up to the church which has been a place of pilgrimage since that time.
Next to the church is a 171 ft tower with pendulum bells ringing, although the 16th century bell in the church is said to have come from the pope himself. Apparently he gave it to the church after the original bell, sent to the island by an inconsolable widow, in remembrance of her late husband, ended up sinking to the bottom of the lake in a storm. Legend has it that if you ring the Church bell, it will make your wishes come true; and many visitors were happy to pay an extra 6 Euros to go into the church and ring the bell.
There is also a gift shop and café on the island; as well as a pathway around the water’s edge – but 30 minutes was hardly enough time to take it all in. Once back on the shore, I continued along to the far end of the lake – this is the closest that you are to the island; and was surprised by the number of fishermen sitting by the water’s edge.
This is a delightful place where people can sit on sun loungers or on the grass; and go swimming, paddling or snorkelling in the clear, calm water.
This is also one of the places where the white Tourist Train stops, an ideal way to view the lake if you can’t manage to walk all the way around, and it only costs 5 Euros.
Another comfortable (and romantic) way to do this is by Horse and Cart (The Bled coachmen are known as fijakers) – although these are far more expensive, depending how far you want to go.
Further along from the beach, is the Rowing Centre, a really popular sport in Slovenia. The lake is even marked out with lanes for the rowers and you can regularly see them practising and competing – with a grandstand for cheering spectators. Everyone is proud of their rowers and there is a huge board with photographs of their Olympic medalists.
Onwards from here, the lake has a completely different feel, whereas the first side is open and spacious, this side is lined with trees; especially pine trees giving it a picture-perfect view.
There are some beautiful coloured houses amongst the trees, with immaculate gardens, strange statues and often their own boat launching area. Then I came to a surprisingly different area – The Lido. This must be so busy and noisy throughout the summer months, with its pools, slides and play areas; you can also hire small boats and stand-up paddle boards.
The view from this end of the lake is different again, the island looks so far away with the huge mountain range towering behind. People sit in the park enjoying their surroundings perhaps with an ice cream or a piece of Blejska Kremsnita – Bled’s famous vanilla cream cake.
This is where you will find the Red Love Heart – that everyone wants a photo with! For families visiting the area and wanting more entertainment for their children, the Straza is ideal; it has a cable car with a ski slope in the winter, a toboggan in the summer, as well as an adventure park.
It is only a few minutes from the centre of Bled and boasts the best views of the lake below and the Karavanke mountains in the distance. After a few hours rest, I headed out again to Bled’s second must-do destination – The Castle. Following the signs from the park, I walked up the steep pathway, passing St Martins’ Church – another building that stands out as a tall white beacon, that can be seen from almost every corner of the lake.
I carried on up the hill, up hundreds of steps, twisting through the forest; the signs on the path said it would take 20 minutes and this is about right – if you don’t stop for a breather! Finally, I arrived at the entrance to the castle, with a medieval feel to it, a gothic arch and drawbridge above a moat – that is now filled with earth.
There is another short climb before reaching the ticket office; it costs 9 Euros and is open until 9pm or later every night. Once inside, this is like no other castle I have seen; not only does it have fairy tale architecture – its panoramic outlook is incredible. This 12th century castle has so much to keep you entertained, it is home to a museum, several galleries, a printing works, a cellar, where you can bottle and seal your own wine, a smithy, and a restaurant. In the summer months, you may even meet a Lord or watch an archery tournament.
In 1511 the castle was heavily damaged by an earthquake; but restored and decorated with frescoes and stone-carved coats-of-arms. In the Upper Courtyard there is a museum which tells the history of the area around Bled – going back thousands of years – it is very modern and cleverly done.
The 16th century Gothic Castle Chapel in the upper courtyard has been renovated and painted with illusionist frescoes.
In the Printing Room, people can use the old printing press, putting their name on parchment and pressing a seal onto it; and above this Shop are other galleries, one showing a selection of modern paintings and the other has old books - some dating back to the 16th Century.
I couldn’t help looking out of every window, each scene was breathtaking – it is worth visiting the castle just to experience the fabulous panoramic vistas. The castle itself had been a real surprise, with its red pointed roof tops, arches, quaint windows and gothic emblems – as well as its interesting historical rooms.
After seeing everything in both courtyards, it was time to head back down; the pathway back to reach the entrance is treacherous (steep and slippery) – it is definitely not disabled friendly! It was almost dark when I reached the bottom of the cliff and looking back – the castle glowed crimson up above, impressively protecting all below it. What an exhausting day, and I couldn’t wait for the next one.
Rising early, I had read that instead of doing an expensive trip to Vintgar Gorge, there was a bus there for 1 Euro which left at 08:20am. Happy with an early start, and hoping to avoid the crowds, this was definitely the best option for me. The bus arrived on time and drove for 20 minutes through small hamlets reminiscent of Switzerland or Austria. It costs 5 Euros to enter the gorge, and there are toilets and a small shop at the entrance. The Gorge was discovered in 1891 and 2 years later a walkway was built; and since its opening it has attracted numerous tourists wanting to experience Slovenia’s natural beauty. I walked along the path, following the turbulent river below; at every turn the water appeared to have changed.
One minute there were frothing rapids, gushing cascades, the next it was calm pools – always with towering vertical rocks above - amidst the plants and trees of the unspoilt forest. Precariously positioned wooden walkways are attached to the rocks, these cross the river in several places – there is hardly any room to pass anyone in certain sections, so I was very glad I had gone early.
It wasn’t much further to the end of the trail, where there is a café and more toilets; from here you can carry on and take further hiking trails into the mountains. But I was happy to return the same way, as things always look different from the opposite direction.
The sun was rising above the mountains now and the temperature was warming up; although it had been a cold start, it had been a wonderful few hours in the heart of Slovenia’s countryside. The last part of the pathway was so congested, I would not like to have come any later than I did, it was far too busy.
I managed to catch the little bus back to Bled, got off near the camping area and walked back around the lake the opposite way to the day before – the sun was shining, and it looked even more spectacular than the previous day.
After some lunch I went to the Wellness Ziva (below the Rikli Balance Hotel) and for only 9 Euros, spent a few hours in their pools, hot spas, on the water flume and relaxing on their sunbeds – with the most amazing outlook over the lake.
It was a perfect time to go, hardly anyone about! It is open everyday until late evening and is an ideal place to relax after a day sightseeing or trekking. You can upgrade to include using the sauna or even book a treatment – but I was happy with a few hours relaxing and enjoying the most iconic view.
In the 19th century, Bled was visited by hydropathy enthusiasts, and soon after it was considered to be the most beautiful health resort in Austria-Hungary, with many pleasant bathing areas and thermal springs that can be found in the north-eastern part of the lake. After dinner, it was an early night, as I wanted to get up for the sunrise next morning.
It was just above freezing when I headed out, with a thick mist hovering above the lake – although this hadn’t stopped the fishermen under their blankets hoping for their first catch of the day. I was confident of my way now (although you can’t get lost on the path), and as the sky became lighter, there was still a dullness about, and I was certain that there wasn’t going to be the special sunrise I was hoping for.
I could see snow on the distant mountains, and the trees were glowing amber – a colour that wasn’t there the day before, so I tried not to be too disappointed. But when I reached the beach area, as if by magic, a ray of light began emerging between the peaks of 2 mountains opposite – I was so excited. Full of apprehension, I knew that I would only have a minute, if that, to capture something special. It wasn’t the dramatic red sky that I had been expecting – it was blue, with the blackness of the mountains reflecting on the water – it was amazing. Absolutely mesmerising!
I stayed there until the sun shone fully in the clear blue sky and carried on around the lake with a beaming smile on my face. Everything was so much brighter now, every time you walk around the lake it looks different.
It had definitely been worth getting up early for – my only regret was that I hadn’t managed to get up to the viewpoint but that was higher up in the forest and I hadn’t fancied that in the dark. But Bled had lived up to my expectations, I had loved every part of my visit and now I want to come back and experience it in the winter – maybe for a Christmas festival and those snowy shots!
I hope you enjoyed my few days in Lake Bled.
Lynne
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