Tasmania
It was an interesting flight from Melbourne to Hobart, flying over several small islands just north of Tasmania, including the infamous Flinders Island – where the original islanders were exiled to almost 200 years ago. I was surprised to see so many lakes and rivers inland – all glistening in the sun as we came in to land.
Although it was teatime, the sun was still high in the sky – so there was plenty of time to dump the suitcase at the hotel and go out exploring. I headed down to an area called Salamanca, originally part of the old harbour; where the warehouses had been converted into shops, cafes and restaurants.
Music was being played and there was a wonderful atmosphere all around. Before having something to eat at a delightful Italian restaurant, I wandered up the hill to Battery Point with its immaculately kept 1840’s houses and gardens – it was so Olde English!
I was glad I had wrapped up well, because the temperature dropped very quickly – but I was prepared for every eventuality! Although it was summer, it had snowed here the previous week! Back at the hotel there was no time to unpack; I was off early the next morning on an 8-day tour of the Island with Under Down Under Tours.
Although it was teatime, the sun was still high in the sky – so there was plenty of time to dump the suitcase at the hotel and go out exploring. I headed down to an area called Salamanca, originally part of the old harbour; where the warehouses had been converted into shops, cafes and restaurants.
Music was being played and there was a wonderful atmosphere all around. Before having something to eat at a delightful Italian restaurant, I wandered up the hill to Battery Point with its immaculately kept 1840’s houses and gardens – it was so Olde English!
I was glad I had wrapped up well, because the temperature dropped very quickly – but I was prepared for every eventuality! Although it was summer, it had snowed here the previous week! Back at the hotel there was no time to unpack; I was off early the next morning on an 8-day tour of the Island with Under Down Under Tours.
Day 1
It was a cold start when we left Hobart, heading west along the Derwent River, past Christmas tree and Hop plantations.
We stopped at Mount Field National Park and walked in ‘The Land of the Giants’; a UNESCO site where the trees are 100 metres tall; following the path under these monster trees, which led to Russell Falls.
It was marvellous seeing the water at the top of the falls, just fall away into the forest below, and it was just as impressive seeing a wide curtain of water cascading down, from the vantage point on the forest floor.
Tree ferns appeared to be growing out of the cascading water. Although the undergrowth was really dense with grasses, ferns and mosses, we managed to spot a Pademelon in the shrub – a type of small wallaby.
The next stop was an amazing photo opportunity; we just pulled up by the road at Meadowbank Lake; which has got to be one of the calmest stretches of water I have ever seen.
The golden fields that surrounded it reflected perfectly in the water; and there was an old wooden walkway that appeared to have been placed in the most perfect position – just for my photograph.
Our lunch stop was at Lake St Clair – another Wilderness World heritage area where we grabbed a quick sandwich and enjoyed a walk around the lake in the sunshine.
There were smooth, dark boulders all around the shore, mountains in the distance and we even saw more wildlife - an Echidna. The last part of the day’s journey was the worst; over 200 bends in 38 kilometres, and by the time we arrived in Strahan, everyone felt ill! The guide had arranged for us to have a BBQ and then she took us to the beach to see the sun go down. What a sunset it was!
It was the brightest orange sky you can imagine – and I felt so privileged to have seen it. There were so many people on the beach, some in their vehicles, all braving the wind that comes straight from South America with nothing in its way before it reaches Tasmania’s shores.
The Roaring Forties have the cleanest air anywhere in the world, and you could really tell, there was no pollution, no smoke – just crisp, clean air. It was dark by the time we got back, and I can hardly remember falling into my bed – what a first day it had been!
It was marvellous seeing the water at the top of the falls, just fall away into the forest below, and it was just as impressive seeing a wide curtain of water cascading down, from the vantage point on the forest floor.
The golden fields that surrounded it reflected perfectly in the water; and there was an old wooden walkway that appeared to have been placed in the most perfect position – just for my photograph.
Our lunch stop was at Lake St Clair – another Wilderness World heritage area where we grabbed a quick sandwich and enjoyed a walk around the lake in the sunshine.
There were smooth, dark boulders all around the shore, mountains in the distance and we even saw more wildlife - an Echidna. The last part of the day’s journey was the worst; over 200 bends in 38 kilometres, and by the time we arrived in Strahan, everyone felt ill! The guide had arranged for us to have a BBQ and then she took us to the beach to see the sun go down. What a sunset it was!
The Roaring Forties have the cleanest air anywhere in the world, and you could really tell, there was no pollution, no smoke – just crisp, clean air. It was dark by the time we got back, and I can hardly remember falling into my bed – what a first day it had been!
Day 2
Today, I opted for the cruise on Gordon River and Macquarie harbour, which is twice the area of Sydney Harbour but only assessable through the narrowest entrance called Hell’s Gates.
This was the direction we headed first, along the ‘Training Wall’ that had been built from huge boulders to keep ships steered in the right direction towards the open sea.
Hells Gates are a spectacular entrance to the harbour, as are the numerous white lighthouses along the coastline – with Cape Sorrell Lighthouse in the distance. The sun was out and the sea was so calm that the captain decided to take the boat out into the ocean for a while, so we actually passed through Hell’s Gates.
The area is renowned for whales and dolphins, but we only saw seals popping their heads up. We could see the endless 40km Ocean Beach and dunes, where we watched the sunset last night, a real untouched wilderness looking out towards thousands of miles of ocean. Although the sun was out, there was a cold wind; the boat turned back into the sheltered waters of the harbour and we headed inland, passing salmon and trout farms, before reaching our first stop Sarah Island.
As we approached this small island, the water was a mirror, the flattest I have ever seen and the reflection of the pier, the clouds and the island itself was too amazing for words. It was utter precision.
We had a guided walk around the island, that had been a Penal Settlement between 1822-33 and had the reputation of being the most brutal, fearful colony in Tasmania. The convicts who were sent there were forced to do constant hard labour; they were given vicious punishments and were deprived of all comforts.
There was no chance of escape; there was nowhere to escape to. Our guide really bought the history to life for us; she was so informative and enthusiastic about what happened there in those few punishing years.
We were shown the ruins of the goal, the bake house, the barracks, the tannery, the important peoples homes (which were all so close together), I could not believe so many people and so many buildings could have existed on such a small island.
It was such a fascinating place - I had to buy a book about it. When we got back on board, lunch was served – delicious salads with cheeses, meats and smoked salmon. It wasn’t too long before our next stop, a walk around Heritage Landing to see the ancient rainforest with its moss and Huon Pine Trees. These trees are so special; they don’t rot in the water; so they are brilliant material to build ships with. That is what the convicts were made to do on Sarah Island – build ships.
After a brief walk along the boardwalk, the boat headed back down the Gordon River towards Strahan. Behind us was the dense wilderness – a Jurassic Park forest, much of it still not explored. It had been a delightful boat trip, and when we disembarked, we were shown around the old Sawmill and given the opportunity to buy items made from Huon Pine. Rather that go back to the Motel, I walked along the waterfront of this attractive town, with its quaint colonial buildings overlooking Macquarie Harbour.
After a coffee and mince pie (It was nearly Christmas), I headed back to the Sawmill for a performance of the local show ‘The Ship That Never Was’! It was the true story about some convicts who built a ship, stole it and sailed to Chile; only to be recaptured a few years later. It was hilarious and done with such enthusiastic storytelling and audience participation, that we were all spellbound for 2 hours.
I took a few different sunset shots along a sheltered beach – different to the previous night – and went to sleep very happy. What a day it had been – again!
This was the direction we headed first, along the ‘Training Wall’ that had been built from huge boulders to keep ships steered in the right direction towards the open sea.
Hells Gates are a spectacular entrance to the harbour, as are the numerous white lighthouses along the coastline – with Cape Sorrell Lighthouse in the distance. The sun was out and the sea was so calm that the captain decided to take the boat out into the ocean for a while, so we actually passed through Hell’s Gates.
As we approached this small island, the water was a mirror, the flattest I have ever seen and the reflection of the pier, the clouds and the island itself was too amazing for words. It was utter precision.
We had a guided walk around the island, that had been a Penal Settlement between 1822-33 and had the reputation of being the most brutal, fearful colony in Tasmania. The convicts who were sent there were forced to do constant hard labour; they were given vicious punishments and were deprived of all comforts.
There was no chance of escape; there was nowhere to escape to. Our guide really bought the history to life for us; she was so informative and enthusiastic about what happened there in those few punishing years.
We were shown the ruins of the goal, the bake house, the barracks, the tannery, the important peoples homes (which were all so close together), I could not believe so many people and so many buildings could have existed on such a small island.
After a brief walk along the boardwalk, the boat headed back down the Gordon River towards Strahan. Behind us was the dense wilderness – a Jurassic Park forest, much of it still not explored. It had been a delightful boat trip, and when we disembarked, we were shown around the old Sawmill and given the opportunity to buy items made from Huon Pine. Rather that go back to the Motel, I walked along the waterfront of this attractive town, with its quaint colonial buildings overlooking Macquarie Harbour.
After a coffee and mince pie (It was nearly Christmas), I headed back to the Sawmill for a performance of the local show ‘The Ship That Never Was’! It was the true story about some convicts who built a ship, stole it and sailed to Chile; only to be recaptured a few years later. It was hilarious and done with such enthusiastic storytelling and audience participation, that we were all spellbound for 2 hours.
It was what I thought was the end to another fabulous day. But later that evening, as I walked passed a dark creek, overlooked by thick trees, I saw a platypus playing in the water. I could not believe it; hardly anyone sees a platypus in the wild anymore – they are so rare. It really was one in a million chance.
I took a few different sunset shots along a sheltered beach – different to the previous night – and went to sleep very happy. What a day it had been – again!
Day 3
It was a very early start, the sky was blue and we were heading to the Central Highlands of Tasmania, the World Heritage area of Cradle Mountain National Park, with its ancient rain forests, pine forests and glacial streams and lakes.
We had a photo stop at Lake Rosebery; the mist was rising from the water, slightly obscuring the reflection of the mountains looming in the distance, giving an eerie feel to the cold morning.
It really was a beautiful sight - another unexpected delight!
As we approached Cradle Mountain we were told there are only about 30 days a year when the sky is blue here – and what a glorious day we had chosen! There were 2 walks; the hard one, a steep climb up to Marion’s Lookout or the walk along the boardwalk of Dove Lake through rainforest, past quartzite beaches, and back to the boat shed. It is described as one of Tasmania’s best walks and gives the best vantage point to capture Cradle Mountain.
I opted for the walk around the Lake, which wasn’t as easy as I expected, there were lots of rocky steps and boulders to clamber over but the scenery made up for it. Cradle Mountain was an imposing sight always looming in the background. The shingled white sandy beaches we came across were beautiful, but the water had an orange glow, and then there was the bright, blue sky and colourful alpine flowers out.
There were toilets by the car park and facilities to fill your water bottles – which was desperately needed. Before we left the Park, we were dropped off at the start of another walk, along a boardwalk, which went up a grassy hill with streams - to the replica homestead of an early settler Gustav Weindorfers – who spent years campaigning for the area to be given its status as a National Park.
On the way up the steep hill, I was very excited to see a wombat scurrying about in the wild – and didn’t realise how dangerous they can be.
Our next stop was Sheffield – Town of Mural’s. The town grew in the 1960’s with the development of dams and power stations, but when they declined, the residents started painting murals to try and revive their town.
There are now over 60 murals painted on walls throughout the town depicting beautiful scenery and history, and are attracting many tourists every year. After a short stop, we headed on to Launceston, driving past hundreds of dead trees that had been killed by drought and fields and fields of white poppies grown for their opium. ‘Poppy Police’ patrol the area to ensure nothing is stolen!
When we arrived at Launceston we had to go to the supermarket to buy provisions for the next 2 days, in case nowhere was open – it was Christmas Day tomorrow. Launceston is Tasmania’s 3rd oldest city, first discovered in 1804 and has a mixture of elegant Colonial buildings, Victorian architecture and old parks.
The motel I stayed in had a wonderful Olde-World atmosphere, it had a windmill and water wheel attached to it and was very picturesque. It would have been nice to have had a bit longer to explore this city with so much heritage, but maybe on another trip.
We had a photo stop at Lake Rosebery; the mist was rising from the water, slightly obscuring the reflection of the mountains looming in the distance, giving an eerie feel to the cold morning.
It really was a beautiful sight - another unexpected delight!
I opted for the walk around the Lake, which wasn’t as easy as I expected, there were lots of rocky steps and boulders to clamber over but the scenery made up for it. Cradle Mountain was an imposing sight always looming in the background. The shingled white sandy beaches we came across were beautiful, but the water had an orange glow, and then there was the bright, blue sky and colourful alpine flowers out.
There were toilets by the car park and facilities to fill your water bottles – which was desperately needed. Before we left the Park, we were dropped off at the start of another walk, along a boardwalk, which went up a grassy hill with streams - to the replica homestead of an early settler Gustav Weindorfers – who spent years campaigning for the area to be given its status as a National Park.
On the way up the steep hill, I was very excited to see a wombat scurrying about in the wild – and didn’t realise how dangerous they can be.
Our next stop was Sheffield – Town of Mural’s. The town grew in the 1960’s with the development of dams and power stations, but when they declined, the residents started painting murals to try and revive their town.
When we arrived at Launceston we had to go to the supermarket to buy provisions for the next 2 days, in case nowhere was open – it was Christmas Day tomorrow. Launceston is Tasmania’s 3rd oldest city, first discovered in 1804 and has a mixture of elegant Colonial buildings, Victorian architecture and old parks.
The motel I stayed in had a wonderful Olde-World atmosphere, it had a windmill and water wheel attached to it and was very picturesque. It would have been nice to have had a bit longer to explore this city with so much heritage, but maybe on another trip.
Day 4
Christmas morning, another early start and we went to Cataract Gorge just outside the city. William Collins discovered this area in 1804; he was so astounded by the beauty of the place, he developed it into a resort. As we were there before the crowds, it was delightful to enjoy the beauty and tranquility of the place.
There is a suspension bridge between the high walls of the gorge, a chairlift, a swimming pool and beautiful gardens surrounding the lake. There are several different walks mostly around the lake, and as the place was relatively empty, we saw wallabies under the bushes, black swans with their cygnets and peacocks blending in with blue hydrangeas.
There are spectacular views from the various lookouts around the park, especially of the suspension bridge reflecting on the lake. As the crowds arrived, bringing their presents and breakfast, we headed off in a north easterly direction.
The scenery was so like English fields with rolls of hay, except there were tree ferns lining the roads and the houses were made of timber.
At lunchtime we had our picnic and then walked down the steep pathway to St Columba Falls; a tall, narrow, gushing waterfall nothing like the one we had seen a few days earlier.
Back on the coach and we continued towards the East Coast and the beautiful Bay of Fires. Captain Tobias Furneaux of the Ship “The Adventure” named the Bay in 1773, when he saw Aboriginal people with fires on the beach. We stopped at Cosy Cove, where the beach was white, the water was turquoise and enormous orange coloured granite boulders appeared to have been positioned strategically to frame the scene.
It was a most picturesque sight. As much as it was a warm day, the wind had picked up and the waves were crashing onto the rocks making it unsafe for swimming. We did enjoy a relaxing hour there, taking in the scenery and having a paddle in the rock pools.
As we continued driving down the coast, the weather deteriorated and by the time we reached to Bicheno for our overnight stop, you would not have thought we were in the same country! The guide had arranged another BBQ, but this time it was indoors; we had Christmas crackers, music and drinks and it was a really good evening.
The Penguin viewing trip was cancelled because it was Christmas, so I headed out with a friend, looking for them ourselves. It was such an awful night, with gale force winds and torrential rain; we were dressed like we were going to the Arctic.
After an hour or so we managed to spot a few little penguins sheltering under some orange boulders as they were returning from their daily fishing trip – they did look poor little things cowering together out of the rain. It was hard work spotting them, but we were happy to have seen them. More wildlife to tick off and another excellent end to the day!
There is a suspension bridge between the high walls of the gorge, a chairlift, a swimming pool and beautiful gardens surrounding the lake. There are several different walks mostly around the lake, and as the place was relatively empty, we saw wallabies under the bushes, black swans with their cygnets and peacocks blending in with blue hydrangeas.
There are spectacular views from the various lookouts around the park, especially of the suspension bridge reflecting on the lake. As the crowds arrived, bringing their presents and breakfast, we headed off in a north easterly direction.
The scenery was so like English fields with rolls of hay, except there were tree ferns lining the roads and the houses were made of timber.
At lunchtime we had our picnic and then walked down the steep pathway to St Columba Falls; a tall, narrow, gushing waterfall nothing like the one we had seen a few days earlier.
Back on the coach and we continued towards the East Coast and the beautiful Bay of Fires. Captain Tobias Furneaux of the Ship “The Adventure” named the Bay in 1773, when he saw Aboriginal people with fires on the beach. We stopped at Cosy Cove, where the beach was white, the water was turquoise and enormous orange coloured granite boulders appeared to have been positioned strategically to frame the scene.
It was a most picturesque sight. As much as it was a warm day, the wind had picked up and the waves were crashing onto the rocks making it unsafe for swimming. We did enjoy a relaxing hour there, taking in the scenery and having a paddle in the rock pools.
The Penguin viewing trip was cancelled because it was Christmas, so I headed out with a friend, looking for them ourselves. It was such an awful night, with gale force winds and torrential rain; we were dressed like we were going to the Arctic.
After an hour or so we managed to spot a few little penguins sheltering under some orange boulders as they were returning from their daily fishing trip – they did look poor little things cowering together out of the rain. It was hard work spotting them, but we were happy to have seen them. More wildlife to tick off and another excellent end to the day!
Day 5
Another early start to avoid the crowds, heading to Freycinet National Park, to the lookout to see that postcard view of Wineglass Bay. After filling our water bottles we walked up the steep hill, through the forest to Wineglass Lookout.
The morning was very humid (storm clouds were looming) and it was hard going up, but I made it to the Lookout to see the bay below, just before the clouds obscured everything. This is one of the most photographed places in Tasmania and I was happy to have seen it, even though it wasn’t at its best.
Some of the group walked down to the beach, but I was happy taking my time going back to the coach and watching the wallabies – who loved having their photographs taken. Within minutes of everyone getting back on the coach, the heavens opened and the storm followed us all the way to Swansea, where we had fish and chips for lunch (This really did seem like a typical English day by the seaside now!). It didn’t matter too much, as we had a long drive back to Hobart; but when we stopped at Bonorong Wildlife Sanctuary the rain eased off and we were able to wander around without getting too wet!
It is a rescue centre for all kinds of local orphaned and sick animals and birds. The kangaroos and wallabies looked so bedraggled – I have never seen ones so soaked before; and the baby koalas and wombats were the cutest things.
My favourite part were the Tassi Devils; they looked like short-legged black dogs that ran round and round so fast you could hardly get a photo of them. There is a type of cancer spreading through the Tassi Devil population and centres such as this one are doing their best to ensure these animals don’t become extinct.
Projects are rearing well animals and releasing them into specific areas on the island where they stand less chance of being run over by vehicles. It is such a worthwhile project; I had to buy a few items from their gift shop. It wasn’t too much further to Hobart, back to the familiar hotel that I had started at – so it was nice to know my way around, especially to know where to go for a nice meal at Salamanca again.
The morning was very humid (storm clouds were looming) and it was hard going up, but I made it to the Lookout to see the bay below, just before the clouds obscured everything. This is one of the most photographed places in Tasmania and I was happy to have seen it, even though it wasn’t at its best.
Some of the group walked down to the beach, but I was happy taking my time going back to the coach and watching the wallabies – who loved having their photographs taken. Within minutes of everyone getting back on the coach, the heavens opened and the storm followed us all the way to Swansea, where we had fish and chips for lunch (This really did seem like a typical English day by the seaside now!). It didn’t matter too much, as we had a long drive back to Hobart; but when we stopped at Bonorong Wildlife Sanctuary the rain eased off and we were able to wander around without getting too wet!
It is a rescue centre for all kinds of local orphaned and sick animals and birds. The kangaroos and wallabies looked so bedraggled – I have never seen ones so soaked before; and the baby koalas and wombats were the cutest things.
My favourite part were the Tassi Devils; they looked like short-legged black dogs that ran round and round so fast you could hardly get a photo of them. There is a type of cancer spreading through the Tassi Devil population and centres such as this one are doing their best to ensure these animals don’t become extinct.
Projects are rearing well animals and releasing them into specific areas on the island where they stand less chance of being run over by vehicles. It is such a worthwhile project; I had to buy a few items from their gift shop. It wasn’t too much further to Hobart, back to the familiar hotel that I had started at – so it was nice to know my way around, especially to know where to go for a nice meal at Salamanca again.
Day 6
This was the day I had been looking forward to for many years – we were going to the World Heritage Site of Port Arthur. Our first stop was Richmond, one of Tasmania’s most historical towns, due to its convict heritage and beautifully preserved colonial buildings dating back to 1820, when it was a convict station.
Its most viewed landmark is the arched Richmond Bridge built by convicts over the Coal River, which was the main road from Hobart to Port Arthur, and Richmond Gaol - the oldest goal in Australia. As we continued down the Tasman Peninsular, the views of the mountains, the forests and the ocean were quite spectacular.
Only 3 years earlier, the whole area had been ablaze when a bush fire swept through the area so quickly, people had to jump into the sea to survive. Hundreds of people were trapped on the end of the peninsular at Port Arthur for a week, until it was safe to drive back to their homes.
Port Arthur Historic Site is Tassi’s top tourist attraction, and is the best surviving example of transportation and a convict establishment dating back almost 200 years. From 1833, for the next 20 years, it was the final destination for Britain’s hardest criminals.
It was one of the harshest penal colonies ever created and had the strictest security measures; as well as being naturally secure with its surrounding shark infested waters. The only escape route to the mainland was the 30-metre-wide Eaglehawk Neck – that was fenced, guarded by soldiers, had mantraps and half starved dogs.
There is a story of a convict trying to escape under the hide of a kangaroo, but when soldiers were about to shoot him for food, he threw off his disguise and surrendered. On the guided walking tour, I was delighted to hear stories about the reality of life as a convict and of the settlements colourful history, whilst we were taken around the restored ruins, but my favourite part was seeing the Separate Prison for which Port Arthur is so famous.
The building was constructed in such a way that no inmate ever saw another, even when they went to the special church that was designed so that the prisoners could only ever see the Chaplain. They wore hoods over their heads whenever they left their cells for exercise or to go to church.
This was a completely different approach to punish persistent offenders, total isolation and deprivation of any communication for years at a time, caused many of them to lose their minds - it was a fascinating place.
After walking around more historic buildings, we went on a short cruise, where we saw the original dockyard, the Isle of the Dead (the cemetery for the officers) and the Point Puer Boys’ Prison Island.
Afterwards, the sun was still shining and I headed up through the gardens to see the Church and the quaint houses that originally belonged to the Magistrate, the Chaplain and the Junior Medical Officer. They were so like old English cottages with rose gardens.
Before leaving Port Arthur I gave them a copy of my book Finding Thomas Dames for their library – a story about my very own convict ancestor who was transported to Western Australia. It seemed fitting to leave his story here with so many other tales of convicts’ lives.
I wish we had had an extra hour to explore more of this fascinating settlement, but I had thoroughly enjoyed every single minute of my visit here. On the drive back to Hobart we stopped at an ‘Ice Cream van’ for the most amazing ‘Berries Ice cream’ I have ever tasted; it was a bowl full of several sorts of berries, ice cream, fresh cream and syrup! When we arrived back in Hobart we decided to have a walk around the waterfront, which was buzzing with activity; television cameras were getting positioned ready for tomorrow when the winning yacht was expected to arrive from Sydney.
The harbour had been cleared in anticipation of the yachts arrival and it looked remarkably calm, serene and some of the reflections of nearby buildings were quite incredible. When I booked this trip I had no idea that I would be in Hobart for the finish of the famous Sydney to Hobart Yacht Race, but now it was so close, I was hoping that I would be able to witness some of it tomorrow.
Its most viewed landmark is the arched Richmond Bridge built by convicts over the Coal River, which was the main road from Hobart to Port Arthur, and Richmond Gaol - the oldest goal in Australia. As we continued down the Tasman Peninsular, the views of the mountains, the forests and the ocean were quite spectacular.
Only 3 years earlier, the whole area had been ablaze when a bush fire swept through the area so quickly, people had to jump into the sea to survive. Hundreds of people were trapped on the end of the peninsular at Port Arthur for a week, until it was safe to drive back to their homes.
Port Arthur Historic Site is Tassi’s top tourist attraction, and is the best surviving example of transportation and a convict establishment dating back almost 200 years. From 1833, for the next 20 years, it was the final destination for Britain’s hardest criminals.
It was one of the harshest penal colonies ever created and had the strictest security measures; as well as being naturally secure with its surrounding shark infested waters. The only escape route to the mainland was the 30-metre-wide Eaglehawk Neck – that was fenced, guarded by soldiers, had mantraps and half starved dogs.
There is a story of a convict trying to escape under the hide of a kangaroo, but when soldiers were about to shoot him for food, he threw off his disguise and surrendered. On the guided walking tour, I was delighted to hear stories about the reality of life as a convict and of the settlements colourful history, whilst we were taken around the restored ruins, but my favourite part was seeing the Separate Prison for which Port Arthur is so famous.
The building was constructed in such a way that no inmate ever saw another, even when they went to the special church that was designed so that the prisoners could only ever see the Chaplain. They wore hoods over their heads whenever they left their cells for exercise or to go to church.
This was a completely different approach to punish persistent offenders, total isolation and deprivation of any communication for years at a time, caused many of them to lose their minds - it was a fascinating place.
After walking around more historic buildings, we went on a short cruise, where we saw the original dockyard, the Isle of the Dead (the cemetery for the officers) and the Point Puer Boys’ Prison Island.
Afterwards, the sun was still shining and I headed up through the gardens to see the Church and the quaint houses that originally belonged to the Magistrate, the Chaplain and the Junior Medical Officer. They were so like old English cottages with rose gardens.
Before leaving Port Arthur I gave them a copy of my book Finding Thomas Dames for their library – a story about my very own convict ancestor who was transported to Western Australia. It seemed fitting to leave his story here with so many other tales of convicts’ lives.
I wish we had had an extra hour to explore more of this fascinating settlement, but I had thoroughly enjoyed every single minute of my visit here. On the drive back to Hobart we stopped at an ‘Ice Cream van’ for the most amazing ‘Berries Ice cream’ I have ever tasted; it was a bowl full of several sorts of berries, ice cream, fresh cream and syrup! When we arrived back in Hobart we decided to have a walk around the waterfront, which was buzzing with activity; television cameras were getting positioned ready for tomorrow when the winning yacht was expected to arrive from Sydney.
The harbour had been cleared in anticipation of the yachts arrival and it looked remarkably calm, serene and some of the reflections of nearby buildings were quite incredible. When I booked this trip I had no idea that I would be in Hobart for the finish of the famous Sydney to Hobart Yacht Race, but now it was so close, I was hoping that I would be able to witness some of it tomorrow.
Day 7
Today we only travelled 14 miles to the summit of Mount Wellington (1272m) to see spectacular views of the city of Hobart, the Derwent estuary and south of the island. When we arrived at the top, although it was only 7 degrees, the air was clear and we could see many islands far in the distance – with the ocean glistening so brightly it dazzled you.
We had free time to take in the scenery, check out the observation deck and walk along the boardwalks taking more photographs – we were as high as the clouds that frequently obscured this summit.
Mount Wellington’s most distinctive feature is its cliff face of dolerite columns known as the Organ Pipes – but for me it was the sparkling ocean. Charles Darwin climbed this mountain in 1836, describing it as “a noble forest”, with “eucalyptus that grew to a great size” and “tree ferns that flourished in an extraordinary matter”. All the trees were leaning to the left because the wind always blows from the west.
We were given the option of the easy walk back down or the hard one with many high rocky steps; I opted for the easy choice but that was a joke! We had to scramble over rocks, holding onto boulders to avoid falling down steep rocky walls into the forest below – there was no Health and Safety here! The next walk through the forest was much better, there was a defined path, the birds were singing and it was a pleasure to get to Sphinx Rock and see the view of the ocean at the end.
Then we went to Hobart’s waterfront to grab some lunch, and as the Taste of Tassi festival had just begun, we all headed there. You had to buy a card and use it like a credit card at the stalls; what a vast array of produce there was to try! I had a cone of different Tassi cheeses and a Jolly Jumbuck lamb wrap with salad and sauces – absolutely delicious!
No time to stop and eat, we were back on the coach and taken to Mona (Museum of Old and New Art), the largest privately funded museum in Australia, opened in 2011 by its millionaire owner David Walsh. It is a rectangular building that doesn’t look a very big, but once inside, the spiral staircase leads you down to 3 large exhibition floors that are built into the side of the cliffs – it was built like this to preserve the heritage of the surrounding the area. There are no windows and the lighting is very sparse.
There were various exhibitions; comedians, Egyptians, plantslife, allsorts of modern and contemporary antiquities; you apparently love or hate this place – my favourite part was sitting out in the sun on the grassy terrace with a pot of tea!!! There was a fabulous view out over the still, calm Derwent, and all everyone was talking about was what time the winning yacht was expected to arrive.
At the appointed time I went to meet the coach at the front of the building, where hundreds of people were picnicking, there was music and dancing and a peacock walked in front of us displaying his beautiful fanned tail feathers. But the day wasn’t over yet. After a farewell drink with our group, I headed back to the Taste of Tassi and tried several more local delicacies, including wallaby, and some local wines which were very good.
I got chatting to a local family, the husband was one of the radio controllers for the yacht race, and he told me where to go and stand to see the winning yacht come in. So off I headed to Constitution Dock, which was filling up with more excited spectators and where the only topic discussed was what time the leader ‘The Comanche’ was expected to arrive.
The sun began to set, the sky was rose pink, colourful lights reflected on the still harbour waters, music played at the Taste of Tassi festival close by, and everyone was in good spirits. The people supporting ‘The Comanche’ wore Indian head dresses and were running amongst the crowd making war like noises.
What an atmosphere it was! It was an incredible experience to be so close when the winning yacht came in and to be part of the crowd. I walked back to my hotel feeling immensely proud and watched the prize giving ceremony on the TV before heading off to bed.
We had free time to take in the scenery, check out the observation deck and walk along the boardwalks taking more photographs – we were as high as the clouds that frequently obscured this summit.
Then we went to Hobart’s waterfront to grab some lunch, and as the Taste of Tassi festival had just begun, we all headed there. You had to buy a card and use it like a credit card at the stalls; what a vast array of produce there was to try! I had a cone of different Tassi cheeses and a Jolly Jumbuck lamb wrap with salad and sauces – absolutely delicious!
There were various exhibitions; comedians, Egyptians, plantslife, allsorts of modern and contemporary antiquities; you apparently love or hate this place – my favourite part was sitting out in the sun on the grassy terrace with a pot of tea!!! There was a fabulous view out over the still, calm Derwent, and all everyone was talking about was what time the winning yacht was expected to arrive.
At the appointed time I went to meet the coach at the front of the building, where hundreds of people were picnicking, there was music and dancing and a peacock walked in front of us displaying his beautiful fanned tail feathers. But the day wasn’t over yet. After a farewell drink with our group, I headed back to the Taste of Tassi and tried several more local delicacies, including wallaby, and some local wines which were very good.
I got chatting to a local family, the husband was one of the radio controllers for the yacht race, and he told me where to go and stand to see the winning yacht come in. So off I headed to Constitution Dock, which was filling up with more excited spectators and where the only topic discussed was what time the leader ‘The Comanche’ was expected to arrive.
The sun began to set, the sky was rose pink, colourful lights reflected on the still harbour waters, music played at the Taste of Tassi festival close by, and everyone was in good spirits. The people supporting ‘The Comanche’ wore Indian head dresses and were running amongst the crowd making war like noises.
What an atmosphere it was! It was an incredible experience to be so close when the winning yacht came in and to be part of the crowd. I walked back to my hotel feeling immensely proud and watched the prize giving ceremony on the TV before heading off to bed.
Day 8
The final day of the tour took us south to Bruny Island, which is made up of north and south islands that are joined by a narrow strip of land known as The Neck. We had a smooth ferry ride over, landing at Roberts Point on North Bruny; the scenery here was light bush land and open pastures but as we drove south, it was a completely different as we approached the hills and rainforest, which are part of the National Park.
Our first stop was at the far end of Adventure Bay (where Captain Bligh set sail on his ill-fated voyage that ended in the infamous Mutiny on the Bounty) – what a peaceful, secluded area it was.
There were several well-kept houses with immaculate gardens overlooking the ocean and hardly anyone about. Our guide took us into the bush and we were delighted to see a couple of rare White Wallabies, before walking along the coastal path to Fluted Cape with its high serrated cliffs and shingle bay.
We stopped at Berry Farm to pick up some lunch and ate it on the picturesque beach where Captain Cook landed 1777, before we headed off again to the most southerly point of the island – Cape Bruny Lighthouse.
It was such a windy spot; we struggled to walk up the hill to the lighthouse, but once up there we had a fabulous birds eye view of the island and in front of us it was only 3000 kilometres to the Antarctic.
We began retracing our steps northwards, stopping at a Cheese Farm and an Oyster Farm and a hut that sold all types of berries. But the highlight of the afternoon for me, was stopping at the narrow isthmus known as The Neck, and walked up the wooden walkway to Truganini Lookout, a viewpoint with the most amazing 360-degree panoramic view.
I managed to capture one of my favourite photos here – and left Bruny Island very happy, but with a hankering to return one day and see it at a more leisurely pace.
Once we arrived back in Hobart, the city was alive with spectators, crew, families – everyone associated with the Yacht Race; Constitution Dock was a completely different scene to the previous night. More yachts had arrived and were berthed-up, and it was a privilege to be able to walk on the wharf and see them at really close quarters.
We even saw one yacht arrive and the crowds were cheering, the family of the crew were crying and we were right in the middle of all the action and emotion. When I booked this trip back in February, I had no idea that I would be seeing this - I had had a ‘Bucket List’ experience that wasn’t even on my list!
The tour around Tasmania had been amazing, breathtaking, and even more than I was expecting; the people in our tour group were a great bunch, the guides were brilliant, the food was superb, the weather was……changeable! I could not believe how many different wild animals I had seen, how many amazing photographs I had taken and altogether how many experiences I had achieved. I definitely want to go back and see some more of this amazing island of Tasmania.
Our first stop was at the far end of Adventure Bay (where Captain Bligh set sail on his ill-fated voyage that ended in the infamous Mutiny on the Bounty) – what a peaceful, secluded area it was.
There were several well-kept houses with immaculate gardens overlooking the ocean and hardly anyone about. Our guide took us into the bush and we were delighted to see a couple of rare White Wallabies, before walking along the coastal path to Fluted Cape with its high serrated cliffs and shingle bay.
We stopped at Berry Farm to pick up some lunch and ate it on the picturesque beach where Captain Cook landed 1777, before we headed off again to the most southerly point of the island – Cape Bruny Lighthouse.
It was such a windy spot; we struggled to walk up the hill to the lighthouse, but once up there we had a fabulous birds eye view of the island and in front of us it was only 3000 kilometres to the Antarctic.
We began retracing our steps northwards, stopping at a Cheese Farm and an Oyster Farm and a hut that sold all types of berries. But the highlight of the afternoon for me, was stopping at the narrow isthmus known as The Neck, and walked up the wooden walkway to Truganini Lookout, a viewpoint with the most amazing 360-degree panoramic view.
I managed to capture one of my favourite photos here – and left Bruny Island very happy, but with a hankering to return one day and see it at a more leisurely pace.
Once we arrived back in Hobart, the city was alive with spectators, crew, families – everyone associated with the Yacht Race; Constitution Dock was a completely different scene to the previous night. More yachts had arrived and were berthed-up, and it was a privilege to be able to walk on the wharf and see them at really close quarters.
We even saw one yacht arrive and the crowds were cheering, the family of the crew were crying and we were right in the middle of all the action and emotion. When I booked this trip back in February, I had no idea that I would be seeing this - I had had a ‘Bucket List’ experience that wasn’t even on my list!
The tour around Tasmania had been amazing, breathtaking, and even more than I was expecting; the people in our tour group were a great bunch, the guides were brilliant, the food was superb, the weather was……changeable! I could not believe how many different wild animals I had seen, how many amazing photographs I had taken and altogether how many experiences I had achieved. I definitely want to go back and see some more of this amazing island of Tasmania.
Lynne
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sounds wonderful and plenty of briliant photos to show it off to its best. well done Lynne. thank you for another great blog. lv Julie xx
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ReplyDeleteWhat fabulous pictures. I recently had a quick '2 and a bit days' in Tasmania and saw some of the sights - Port Arthur, Mt Wellington (freezing) and Hastings Caves. Enjoyed some fabulous food, one in posh restaurant in Hobart and once in a small place in the middle of nowhere. Also went to the art gallery and saw some very odd exhibits! Your pictures inspire another visit to Tassie when the weather is warmer!
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