Seville
After hearing fascinating
things about Seville, I decided to book a long weekend, and see them for
myself. Andalusia’s capital city has such a varied history; the Phoenicians,
Carthaginians and ancient Greeks traded there, Hannibal and Julius Caesar
fought there, and the Arabs ruled until 1492 when they were expelled by
Catholic Kings. Such varied culture, extravagant architecture (palaces with
numerous arches, gardens and painted tiles) – a vibrant mixture of Moorish,
Roman, Persian, Arabian, Baroque, Gothic, and Iberian. -
and I was looking forward to seeing as much of it as possible. My first destination
The Plaza de Espana, was created for the World Expo in 1929; it is a
magnificent semi-circular plaza with a canal and elegant bridges, overlooked by
an ornate, curved palace with tiled walls and arches. I arrived at 10am (not
too early) and was astounded by the calmness, the colour and grandeur of the
place, it really is fabulous creation – a combination of sandstone walls with
blue and white tiles perfectly positioned everywhere (on the buildings, bridges
and balustrades).
The colourful arched bridges reflected beautifully in the water below and you could hire a small boat to go around the moat; or have a relaxing ride around the grounds in a horse and trap. The Palace is now a government building, and along its lower walls are brightly tiled alcoves, displaying historical themes of Spain’s various provinces.
I was so glad that I walked underneath the colonnade – the columns framed the view outside and gave it a totally different feel and a delightful picture of the huge fountain in the centre of the plaza. Locals were selling fans, castanets and other tourist goods – and there is a toilet, but it costs 60 cents!
Next to the Plaza, is Maria Luisa Park, a huge expanse of formal gardens, with a surprise down each pathway; wooden arbours, a look-out above a tunnel, sculptures, fountains, ornamental ponds and lakes in varying shapes and sizes.
There are rows of different trees, regimented pathways, symmetrical box hedges, a botanical garden area and at the far end of the park is the colourful Plaza America. There I found the Museo Archaeologic, with its Roman works of art, mosaics and tombs from the 8th century, and pieces representing history of the region.
It is a pity that nothing was in English – although entrance is free to all EU citizens. Opposite this is the Museo de Artes y Costumbres Populares, another free museum – and this one was much more interesting. It showed how rooms would have looked many years ago, craftsmen’s workshops, exhibits of pottery, textiles (the black lace was amazing) and wine cellars.
My favourite section was the courtyard with comfy seats all around the arched colonnades. The opposite end of the park is the University which was the oldest Tobacco factory in Europe, and the setting of the opera Carmen which was set in Seville in 1820, somewhere else that is free to go in. After passing the most unusual looking Tourist Information Office – a orange and beige stripped columned building with ornate arches; I crossed the bridge over to Triana which was extremely busy.
It was still Holy Week (Semana Santa), 8 days of processions that bring the Passion and death of Christ to life. From Palm Sunday to Easter Sunday, Parish groups carry large, decorative floats portraying biblical scenes and holy effigies through the streets. There are about 60 Parish groups, many having 2 floats carried by up to 40 Costaleros; and following these are “penitents”, dressed in capes and pointy hoods walking slowly through the streets, often with a brass band behind. The mood of each day’s procession changes, sombre ones on Good Friday which depict Christ’s crucifixion; then joyous ones on Easter Sunday to celebrate the Resurrection.
Each float leaves its parish and heads for the official route towards the Cathedral. With so many people about, although it was interesting to see, I decided to leave Triana for another day when it would be quieter; and headed back through the city, passing seated areas and temporary grandstands put up for spectators, and avoiding parts cordoned off for the processions that would be taking place well into the night. I found a lovely pathway through a park with play areas, shaded areas, benches and the most beautiful lilac wisteria – it was a pleasure to walk through it back to my hotel.
Next morning, I headed off in the opposite direction in search of the Roman Walls, there are only a few parts that are still preserved, you can see them around the Alcazar and the Macarena district. At one time Seville was completely enclosed within these walls which had 19 gates – the last one existing is next to the Basilica de la Macarena.
I was able to go inside the church where 2 beautiful floats, that had been paraded around the city the previous day were, and it felt very special to be able to see them.
From here I passed the tall Camera Obscura building, before arriving at Alamenda de Hercules; built in 1574 it is the oldest public park in Europe. It is an excellent open area to people-watch in the daytime, and a hive of activity at night-time, and as I was ready for a sit down, it was the ideal place for a bite to eat and a rest.
Next stop was the Plaza Encarnacion and the Metropol Parasol – a contemporary architecture and the largest wooden structure in the world often described as a giant mushroom. It has been designed on several levels, with a rooftop walkway, shops and Roman ruins below ground. The queue to go up to the top was very long, so I just admired it from the ground – which was inspiring enough. Venturing along the river was delightful, the sun was shining and the buildings on the opposite bank were such an array of colours.
I crossed over Isabel Bridge to the “Republica Independiente de Triana”. This was once a poor working-class area of gypsies, fishermen and bullfighters, but now is famous for its flamenco culture and tile production. There is a market by Castillo San Jorge Triana close to the bridge, and many tile and ceramic shops as well as the Tile Museum.
Running parallel to the River heading south is Betis Street, one of the most photographed Streets in Seville – this was the one I had admired from the opposite bank. Behind this street were many more colourful streets and I found the 13th century Santa Ana Church and Basilica de Nuestra Senora de la Esperanza de Triana – the other place to see more floats.
Crossing over the next bridge down river, I was back in the heart of the city with its parks, fountains, and public areas that were crammed with people enjoying the sunshine and ice creams! I walked back to my hotel through the old part of the town which is rather like a maze; but I was trying to get my bearings ready for the next day and worked out that if I followed Agua Street I couldn’t go wrong!
Next morning, I left the hotel bright and early, with my online ticket for the Real Alcazar (but I still had to get in a long queue) – all tickets were time specific and I had chosen the earliest time. The Real Alcazar is the oldest Royal Palace still in use in Europe, a UNESCO listed building that was originally constructed in the 10th century and described as a masterpiece of exotic architecture with exquisite gardens and the most elegant building in the history of Seville.
Every document relating to the discovery of the Americas is also housed in the Alcazar. It contains influences from the Arabic period, Mudejar from the Middle Ages, and Baroque and Renaissance from the 19th century - so has a combination of Moorish, Islamic and Gothic architecture.
Once inside, I tried to avoid the chaotic organised tours and wandered about in the less busy areas starting at the Patio del Yeso, which is the site of the original Almohad palace. Then I went upstairs and was amazed at the ceilings, the floors, the walls, the stairs – everything; the intricacy of the stonework, it was so delicate.
I went from room to room, suddenly coming out onto a balcony or terrace, seeing the garden below.
Then walking from courtyard to courtyard, many 4-sectional, all beautifully laid out, symmetrical, with circles and squares – that represent heaven and earth – and most had with water - an important feature in gardens such as this.
There was so much lush greenery – orange trees planted in lower dug out beds, so you can touch and smell them as you walk past. Around these courtyards are carved arches and ceilings, with coloured tiles, pots and urns everywhere you look.
I went up the narrow steps to the Grutesco Gallery where there were amazing views of the gardens below, of ponds, water features, box hedge displays, unusual buildings and orange terraces and walls. It was a delight to be able to wander around the outer, quieter gardens – with only a peacock for company; and where I found the most ornate toilet building ever.
Even the café was in a keeping with the rest of the buildings, with a pretty patio area to sit overlooking to gardens. I had to go around and make sure I hadn’t missed anything, because every corner you went around, there was something else to astound you, and in such awe, you lost all sense of direction. I found the underground baths, where the water reflected so beautifully – making the most fabulous picture.
It really is a dazzling conurbation of domed rooms and patios, everywhere ornately tiled - a perfect example of Persian and Islamic architecture, a wonderful place to enjoy the cool, peaceful atmosphere of what is perfectly described as a “Pleasure Garden”. The Real Alcazar had certainly lived up to my expectations and was somewhere I would never forget. www.alcazarsevilla.org The exit is also impressive, through a huge passageway of white and orange columns, leading out into the tree lined square of Patio de Banderas, and the heart of the old city ready for more exploring.
Barrio Santa Cruz right next to the Alcazar and the Cathedral, is the oldest part of the city, built by the Romans in the 1st century BC originally within the City Walls. This historical area, with narrow, winding cobbled streets provide shade in the summer and appear to be an endless maze to enemies and strangers. The narrowest streets are known as kissing streets because of the closeness of their upper balconies.
These streets link a patchwork of Plazas, many of which are laid out as small gardens, with orange trees, palms and fountains, surrounded by shops and small bars, as well as being home to the romantic Opera “The Barber of Seville. You can easily get lost in this area, guide books say a map is a waste of time – and there are very few signs. I found that if I found (Water) Agua Street, I could get my bearings as it ran along the walls of the Alcazar to the park area on the outskirts.
After all that exploring, I opted for a leisurely boat ride on the Guadalquivir River (meaning the Rio Grande) – I needed a sit down! Many of the bigger river boats were charging 16 Euros, but on south side of the Torre del Oro, there was a smaller boat that was only 10 Euros – and they all saw the same sites. http://www.crucerostorredeoro.com It was a delightful sunny afternoon, and a pleasure to see the colourful buildings and parks from the water – as well as being given just enough information to keep me interested.
After my rest it was time to visit the Cathedral, I had bought a timed ticket before I left home and avoided the long queue (although it wasn’t very clear where to go if you already had a ticket). Seville Cathedral, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is the biggest Gothic building and 3rd largest cathedral in the world; described as its own little world with 80 different chapels.
I enjoyed seeing the statue/ tomb of Christopher Columbus, the great explorer who discovered the Americas, followed by the Conquistadors who sailed off to the New World, plundering and bringing immense wealth back to the area; making Seville the economic capital of the Spanish Empire.
Building of the Cathedral began in the 1400’s, full of immense stone pillars, paintings, sculptures, gold and silverware and stained glass.
My favourite part was the bell tower, The Giralda, built in the 12th century and for almost a thousand years it was the tallest building in Seville, originally having a copper sphere on the top.
The Sultan ordered that it was built with 35 steep ramps instead of steps, so that the Muezzin (who led the call to prayer) could ride his horse to the top to recite the Adhan.
It wasn’t too hard getting to the top, but well worth it for the fantastic views of the city below; in every direction there was something special to see – the Alcazar, the River, the compact city, the bull ring and the ornate roof tops of the Cathedral below. www.catedraldesevilla.es A ticket to the Cathedral also allows you access into the El Divino Salvador Church. After an exhausting but fascinating day, I headed back to my hotel with the biggest smile!
I intended my last day in Seville to be more relaxing, I had no timed tickets, so wondered through the quaint city streets soaking up the atmosphere and enjoying seeing many different types of shops.
There were Flamenco Costume shops, traditional clothing and shoe shops, the cutest baby clothes I have ever seen; but the shop that I loved the most was the Duck Shop! Down these narrow streets you would come across a cinema, a theatre or even a museum, they hardly stood out from the traditional buildings and you could easily miss them.
I eventually arrived at the river again and walked down towards The Torre del Oro – The 13th century Moorish Golden Tower which dominates the bank. It is now a Naval museum containing charts, maps and replicas of ships such as the Santa Maria.
The 12-sided tower was originally a defence point, apparently with an identical tower on the opposite bank which was said to have been destroyed by an earthquake in the 18th century. It is free to go in every Monday and Tuesday, so that was a bonus and more great views of the city from the top.
Not far from here was The Plaza de Toros de la Maestranza de Cabelleria de Seville - the oldest bullring in Spain, construction started in 1730. It was here that bullfights changed from horseback onto foot and the theatrical matadors were born.
I didn’t want to see an actual bull fight but wanted to see this fabulous building. I purchased a timed ticket and had a coffee whilst I was waiting for my guided tour – the only way of visiting.
Everyone is given a headset, then
the guide leads you through the museum (full of paintings, costumes and
memorabilia), to the chapel where prayers are given before a performance, and
the infirmary where wounds are tended afterwards; before being allowed to see
the magnificent bullring itself.
The ornate brightly coloured arches were amazing, they looked bleached, so white and clean; and the sand in the ring didn’t look real – it was the brightest shade of amber. Even the stone steps surrounding the ring all had small tiled numbers on them at intervals, indicating where to sit. It was all so clean, so pristine, the most beautiful arena you could imagine – not a place of bloodshed. Ticket prices for a fight depend on whether you want to sit in the shade or the blazing sun – just like it was for the Romans in their Amphitheatres all those years before. A thoroughly good hour well spent. http://www.realmaestranza.com/
The remainder of my afternoon was spent enjoying the city as I returned to my hotel. I had seen all I had wanted to see, and so much more. Seville really feels like it is still a traditional Spanish city; not many people speak English, most signs and menus are only in Spanish, but it was full of vibrance and delight and I would recommend anyone visit for a few days. Seville is the epitome of everything Spanish – Flamenco, oranges, tapas, bullfighting - a cultural blend that makes Spain what it is today. There is only one thing, when you walk on the pavements, don’t walk on the green cycle lane, as the bikes don’t stop for anyone!
The colourful arched bridges reflected beautifully in the water below and you could hire a small boat to go around the moat; or have a relaxing ride around the grounds in a horse and trap. The Palace is now a government building, and along its lower walls are brightly tiled alcoves, displaying historical themes of Spain’s various provinces.
I was so glad that I walked underneath the colonnade – the columns framed the view outside and gave it a totally different feel and a delightful picture of the huge fountain in the centre of the plaza. Locals were selling fans, castanets and other tourist goods – and there is a toilet, but it costs 60 cents!
Next to the Plaza, is Maria Luisa Park, a huge expanse of formal gardens, with a surprise down each pathway; wooden arbours, a look-out above a tunnel, sculptures, fountains, ornamental ponds and lakes in varying shapes and sizes.
There are rows of different trees, regimented pathways, symmetrical box hedges, a botanical garden area and at the far end of the park is the colourful Plaza America. There I found the Museo Archaeologic, with its Roman works of art, mosaics and tombs from the 8th century, and pieces representing history of the region.
It is a pity that nothing was in English – although entrance is free to all EU citizens. Opposite this is the Museo de Artes y Costumbres Populares, another free museum – and this one was much more interesting. It showed how rooms would have looked many years ago, craftsmen’s workshops, exhibits of pottery, textiles (the black lace was amazing) and wine cellars.
My favourite section was the courtyard with comfy seats all around the arched colonnades. The opposite end of the park is the University which was the oldest Tobacco factory in Europe, and the setting of the opera Carmen which was set in Seville in 1820, somewhere else that is free to go in. After passing the most unusual looking Tourist Information Office – a orange and beige stripped columned building with ornate arches; I crossed the bridge over to Triana which was extremely busy.
It was still Holy Week (Semana Santa), 8 days of processions that bring the Passion and death of Christ to life. From Palm Sunday to Easter Sunday, Parish groups carry large, decorative floats portraying biblical scenes and holy effigies through the streets. There are about 60 Parish groups, many having 2 floats carried by up to 40 Costaleros; and following these are “penitents”, dressed in capes and pointy hoods walking slowly through the streets, often with a brass band behind. The mood of each day’s procession changes, sombre ones on Good Friday which depict Christ’s crucifixion; then joyous ones on Easter Sunday to celebrate the Resurrection.
Each float leaves its parish and heads for the official route towards the Cathedral. With so many people about, although it was interesting to see, I decided to leave Triana for another day when it would be quieter; and headed back through the city, passing seated areas and temporary grandstands put up for spectators, and avoiding parts cordoned off for the processions that would be taking place well into the night. I found a lovely pathway through a park with play areas, shaded areas, benches and the most beautiful lilac wisteria – it was a pleasure to walk through it back to my hotel.
Next morning, I headed off in the opposite direction in search of the Roman Walls, there are only a few parts that are still preserved, you can see them around the Alcazar and the Macarena district. At one time Seville was completely enclosed within these walls which had 19 gates – the last one existing is next to the Basilica de la Macarena.
I was able to go inside the church where 2 beautiful floats, that had been paraded around the city the previous day were, and it felt very special to be able to see them.
From here I passed the tall Camera Obscura building, before arriving at Alamenda de Hercules; built in 1574 it is the oldest public park in Europe. It is an excellent open area to people-watch in the daytime, and a hive of activity at night-time, and as I was ready for a sit down, it was the ideal place for a bite to eat and a rest.
Next stop was the Plaza Encarnacion and the Metropol Parasol – a contemporary architecture and the largest wooden structure in the world often described as a giant mushroom. It has been designed on several levels, with a rooftop walkway, shops and Roman ruins below ground. The queue to go up to the top was very long, so I just admired it from the ground – which was inspiring enough. Venturing along the river was delightful, the sun was shining and the buildings on the opposite bank were such an array of colours.
I crossed over Isabel Bridge to the “Republica Independiente de Triana”. This was once a poor working-class area of gypsies, fishermen and bullfighters, but now is famous for its flamenco culture and tile production. There is a market by Castillo San Jorge Triana close to the bridge, and many tile and ceramic shops as well as the Tile Museum.
Running parallel to the River heading south is Betis Street, one of the most photographed Streets in Seville – this was the one I had admired from the opposite bank. Behind this street were many more colourful streets and I found the 13th century Santa Ana Church and Basilica de Nuestra Senora de la Esperanza de Triana – the other place to see more floats.
Crossing over the next bridge down river, I was back in the heart of the city with its parks, fountains, and public areas that were crammed with people enjoying the sunshine and ice creams! I walked back to my hotel through the old part of the town which is rather like a maze; but I was trying to get my bearings ready for the next day and worked out that if I followed Agua Street I couldn’t go wrong!
Next morning, I left the hotel bright and early, with my online ticket for the Real Alcazar (but I still had to get in a long queue) – all tickets were time specific and I had chosen the earliest time. The Real Alcazar is the oldest Royal Palace still in use in Europe, a UNESCO listed building that was originally constructed in the 10th century and described as a masterpiece of exotic architecture with exquisite gardens and the most elegant building in the history of Seville.
Every document relating to the discovery of the Americas is also housed in the Alcazar. It contains influences from the Arabic period, Mudejar from the Middle Ages, and Baroque and Renaissance from the 19th century - so has a combination of Moorish, Islamic and Gothic architecture.
Once inside, I tried to avoid the chaotic organised tours and wandered about in the less busy areas starting at the Patio del Yeso, which is the site of the original Almohad palace. Then I went upstairs and was amazed at the ceilings, the floors, the walls, the stairs – everything; the intricacy of the stonework, it was so delicate.
I went from room to room, suddenly coming out onto a balcony or terrace, seeing the garden below.
Then walking from courtyard to courtyard, many 4-sectional, all beautifully laid out, symmetrical, with circles and squares – that represent heaven and earth – and most had with water - an important feature in gardens such as this.
There was so much lush greenery – orange trees planted in lower dug out beds, so you can touch and smell them as you walk past. Around these courtyards are carved arches and ceilings, with coloured tiles, pots and urns everywhere you look.
I went up the narrow steps to the Grutesco Gallery where there were amazing views of the gardens below, of ponds, water features, box hedge displays, unusual buildings and orange terraces and walls. It was a delight to be able to wander around the outer, quieter gardens – with only a peacock for company; and where I found the most ornate toilet building ever.
Even the café was in a keeping with the rest of the buildings, with a pretty patio area to sit overlooking to gardens. I had to go around and make sure I hadn’t missed anything, because every corner you went around, there was something else to astound you, and in such awe, you lost all sense of direction. I found the underground baths, where the water reflected so beautifully – making the most fabulous picture.
It really is a dazzling conurbation of domed rooms and patios, everywhere ornately tiled - a perfect example of Persian and Islamic architecture, a wonderful place to enjoy the cool, peaceful atmosphere of what is perfectly described as a “Pleasure Garden”. The Real Alcazar had certainly lived up to my expectations and was somewhere I would never forget. www.alcazarsevilla.org The exit is also impressive, through a huge passageway of white and orange columns, leading out into the tree lined square of Patio de Banderas, and the heart of the old city ready for more exploring.
Barrio Santa Cruz right next to the Alcazar and the Cathedral, is the oldest part of the city, built by the Romans in the 1st century BC originally within the City Walls. This historical area, with narrow, winding cobbled streets provide shade in the summer and appear to be an endless maze to enemies and strangers. The narrowest streets are known as kissing streets because of the closeness of their upper balconies.
These streets link a patchwork of Plazas, many of which are laid out as small gardens, with orange trees, palms and fountains, surrounded by shops and small bars, as well as being home to the romantic Opera “The Barber of Seville. You can easily get lost in this area, guide books say a map is a waste of time – and there are very few signs. I found that if I found (Water) Agua Street, I could get my bearings as it ran along the walls of the Alcazar to the park area on the outskirts.
After all that exploring, I opted for a leisurely boat ride on the Guadalquivir River (meaning the Rio Grande) – I needed a sit down! Many of the bigger river boats were charging 16 Euros, but on south side of the Torre del Oro, there was a smaller boat that was only 10 Euros – and they all saw the same sites. http://www.crucerostorredeoro.com It was a delightful sunny afternoon, and a pleasure to see the colourful buildings and parks from the water – as well as being given just enough information to keep me interested.
After my rest it was time to visit the Cathedral, I had bought a timed ticket before I left home and avoided the long queue (although it wasn’t very clear where to go if you already had a ticket). Seville Cathedral, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is the biggest Gothic building and 3rd largest cathedral in the world; described as its own little world with 80 different chapels.
I enjoyed seeing the statue/ tomb of Christopher Columbus, the great explorer who discovered the Americas, followed by the Conquistadors who sailed off to the New World, plundering and bringing immense wealth back to the area; making Seville the economic capital of the Spanish Empire.
Building of the Cathedral began in the 1400’s, full of immense stone pillars, paintings, sculptures, gold and silverware and stained glass.
My favourite part was the bell tower, The Giralda, built in the 12th century and for almost a thousand years it was the tallest building in Seville, originally having a copper sphere on the top.
The Sultan ordered that it was built with 35 steep ramps instead of steps, so that the Muezzin (who led the call to prayer) could ride his horse to the top to recite the Adhan.
It wasn’t too hard getting to the top, but well worth it for the fantastic views of the city below; in every direction there was something special to see – the Alcazar, the River, the compact city, the bull ring and the ornate roof tops of the Cathedral below. www.catedraldesevilla.es A ticket to the Cathedral also allows you access into the El Divino Salvador Church. After an exhausting but fascinating day, I headed back to my hotel with the biggest smile!
I intended my last day in Seville to be more relaxing, I had no timed tickets, so wondered through the quaint city streets soaking up the atmosphere and enjoying seeing many different types of shops.
There were Flamenco Costume shops, traditional clothing and shoe shops, the cutest baby clothes I have ever seen; but the shop that I loved the most was the Duck Shop! Down these narrow streets you would come across a cinema, a theatre or even a museum, they hardly stood out from the traditional buildings and you could easily miss them.
I eventually arrived at the river again and walked down towards The Torre del Oro – The 13th century Moorish Golden Tower which dominates the bank. It is now a Naval museum containing charts, maps and replicas of ships such as the Santa Maria.
The 12-sided tower was originally a defence point, apparently with an identical tower on the opposite bank which was said to have been destroyed by an earthquake in the 18th century. It is free to go in every Monday and Tuesday, so that was a bonus and more great views of the city from the top.
Not far from here was The Plaza de Toros de la Maestranza de Cabelleria de Seville - the oldest bullring in Spain, construction started in 1730. It was here that bullfights changed from horseback onto foot and the theatrical matadors were born.
I didn’t want to see an actual bull fight but wanted to see this fabulous building. I purchased a timed ticket and had a coffee whilst I was waiting for my guided tour – the only way of visiting.
The ornate brightly coloured arches were amazing, they looked bleached, so white and clean; and the sand in the ring didn’t look real – it was the brightest shade of amber. Even the stone steps surrounding the ring all had small tiled numbers on them at intervals, indicating where to sit. It was all so clean, so pristine, the most beautiful arena you could imagine – not a place of bloodshed. Ticket prices for a fight depend on whether you want to sit in the shade or the blazing sun – just like it was for the Romans in their Amphitheatres all those years before. A thoroughly good hour well spent. http://www.realmaestranza.com/
The remainder of my afternoon was spent enjoying the city as I returned to my hotel. I had seen all I had wanted to see, and so much more. Seville really feels like it is still a traditional Spanish city; not many people speak English, most signs and menus are only in Spanish, but it was full of vibrance and delight and I would recommend anyone visit for a few days. Seville is the epitome of everything Spanish – Flamenco, oranges, tapas, bullfighting - a cultural blend that makes Spain what it is today. There is only one thing, when you walk on the pavements, don’t walk on the green cycle lane, as the bikes don’t stop for anyone!
I hope you enjoyed this trip with me.
Lynne
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